Just thinking how crappy the knitwear is in some of these 'retro/Americana' shops I sometimes I wander into. But there's more to it than that. It's almost as if the stuff is intended as some kind of 'hip' joke for the studenty-types. All that man-made Norwegian etc.
Interesting Brideshead mentioned M&S. I used to virtually live in it for work, during the autumn and winter. No longer. A disgrace. Pringle, too. Blimey, we can't always afford decent cashmere, but I draw the line at outsourced tat at any price. Again, go vintage?
There is no need to go vintage as great knitwear is still available in Scotland - Johnson's, William Lockie, Ballantyne plus some smaller firms in the borders - http://www.locallifeb2b.co.uk/scottishborders/knitwear-wholesalers.asp.
Anderson is the real Shetland deal but expensive - http://www.shetlandknitwear.com/AllOverFairIsle.aspx. These sites have some good value shetlands too - http://www.shetlandknitwear.net/page7.html and http://www.shetland-knitwear.co.uk/index.htm.
About knitwear: one place where the British always held sway in the American Ivy shops. We pretty much took our inspiration (without adaptation) from them in that regard. I'm trying to think if there was anything original in American knits. I think Press wants to claim credit for the Shaggy Dog (if I remember some of their newer marketing stuff), but that can't be right. Surely there are antecedents.
We made the sweatshirt our own, but I think there was something unmistakably British about knitwear, and all the shops had (and have, I presume) the British stuff. This holds true esp. for Brooks and the more mature traditional American stuff. And for places like Paul Stuart and Andover, though a bit of the Johnny Italian has come into play.
Interesting. I like my locally made Dalkeith pretty much as well as my imported Paul Stuart.
RR&P does not recall owning that locally-made Dalkeith, but he does remember owning two items of Paul Stuart: one maroon cashmere v-neck which he thought ended up in the cat basket but has apparently vanished into thin air - and one dark green (bottle? Hunter? I dunno) Shetland v-neck with saddle shoulders that needed the attention of a seamstress. I had a brief infatuation with Paul Stuart around 2006/7. Bought nothing of theirs since.
I'd also completely forgotten that Dalkeith has local roots. I'd assumed it originated north of the border.
We live and learn.
^ A good and interesting posting from Horace there BTW. I was wearing a thrifted M&S lambswool sweater whilst out walking yesterday afternoon. It would have been washed by the charity shop but I handwashed it in fabric conditioner and allowed it to dry on a wooden rack. It's really the only way to do it. I had a good day that day, buying knitwear and scarves: all English.
Wish Horace would post more often.
I have a Pringle sweater- crew neck, blue, cable-knit from the1980’s. I recall my mother took me to a store that had imported- better quality- stuff. The movie Galipoli had recently opened. She bought me that sweater and a fair isle vest (I don’t think you guys call it that). I don’t think I’d ever had a fair isle or Pringle anything before that but she had better instincts than I. My mom had - still has- great taste. The house was mid century Modern- Saarinen Womb Chair, Herman Miller gate-leg dining table, a bedroom set of severe Danish angles and gleaming dark wood. And I still have the sweater.
Last edited by Jdemy (2021-12-20 08:41:38)
No, Jdemy, we wouldn't call it a vest, we'd call it a sleeveless sweater or maybe a slipover. I think they're very, very Ivy indeed. I have a couple (by Alan Paine) I was lucky enough to have out of an obscure charity shop years ago and which are perfect examples of conservative English knitwear, so square they're incredibly hip.
Your mom - and your parents' house - sound wonderful.
Anyone come across 'Tulchan'? I hadn't, until yesterday. Cotton/wool mix, cable-knit, v-neck. A kind of raspberry colour. Made in Lancashire, in spite of the 'Will Ye No' Come Back Agin?' sounding name (not unlike Dalkeith, in fact). For dossing round the house, reading M.R.James and Dickens on Christmas Eve.
Jdemy
Pringle used to be superb. Their argyle knits in particular were beautiful.
Great knitwear was so easy to get hold of in the UK up until the eighties and nineties. Specialist menswear stores, golf shops and our department stores would all have high quality, Made in England or Scotland knitwear in a multitude of styles. We didn't appreciate how lucky we all were.
In the mid Nineties most British males were heavily influenced by European styles from the likes of Boss, Armani and a plethora of smaller brands. The traditional British look went out of fashion apart from Paul Smith. The lack of interest in our own manufacturers was shocking. I have it on good authority that if it wasn't for Export sales one of most venerable UK mens shoe manufacturers would have disappeared.
The Great British brands still exist but are shadows of their former selves with many moving manufacturing to third parties elsewhere.
I believe Paine was once huge in the USA. I bought two cashmere sweaters in 2008, one of which is still with me, from an American seller on Ebay.
Some of what Cable Car sold reminded me of good M&S, if no better.
When I first started in freight forwarding at LHR in 1970 the company I worked for had a huge contract handling shipments to ' Associated Dry Goods', (ADG), in the USA , who I think were a buying company for many well known stores, I can remember many large shipments from Alan Paine , Pringle , Aquascutum and probably Burberry, and many other brands, it was all high end goods, some weeks we could fill 5-6 of the big containers (AKE's) they use for loading into the planes, we only handled the air shipments, I'm sure there would have been shipments by sea as well, evidence AFS of how big AP were in the USA at that time,
You have to do what you can around here. A shop in a nearby town was stocking the new Paine at a reasonable £75 a time. Nothing too much to get excited about but I thought I'd buy another. The shop had closed down. But I'll tell you something for nothing, this was an old-fashioned gents' outfitters/country store where almost everything on offer turned out to be fucking rubbish. Tattersall shirts, Harris tweed, raspberry-coloured cords, dealer boots. I bought Irish-made pyjamas that fell apart within months, Dunlop slippers that lasted around eight or nine months before virtually disintegrating. And none of this crap, the guy swore, was made in China or even Vietnam. It was like a point of principle with him. Maybe it's as well he closed down.
Clothing I bought from Paul Stuart - particularly knitwear - turned out to be just as dismal.
AFS
I think you've hit the nail on the head with British made clothing. We do the top end very well. Small specialist manufacturers who aren't cheap but offer great value. Smedley, Crockett and Jones, Barbour for example.
Then you have a number of cheaper UK manufacturers, mostly own label, where the lack of quality is really telling.
I don't want to go into the why's and where for's but it's sad that the middle - like Coats Viyella - disappeared.
Alver I think your post hits the nail on the head.
I still have a made in Scotland Pringle sweater. Quality.
Alan Paine made in England sweaters I once owned. I bought them from the Squire shop. I don't remember what type but I still have the receipts (anal).
Tonight I am wearing a merino wool made in England roll neck M & S over 30 years old!
I was one of those mugs that went all European designer shit in the 90s. I just didn't appreciate what we had until it was gone
Many years ago I bought a lovely looking lilac POW check button down shirt made by Crombie of all people. After about half a dozen washes it looked like a dish cloth, only good enough for wearing whilst creosoting the fence. I've had RL's and Gants that always look brand new after a wash & iron.
Does anyone remember Sabre Knitwear. Before House Of Fraser bought it ,my nearest big Department Store Rackhams carried it. Very expensive.
Marks and Spencer knits were almost indestructible. Possibly the last good thing they made.
I'm only about 45 minutes from Smedleys factory shop. Superb for sea island shirts. I buy three or four at a time when they're on offer. The merino is bit too fine for me these days as it clings to the Dad-Bod.
Smedley is to be found without too much effort in an approximately ten mile radius of Lea Bridge. Most charity shops seem to end up with some and, oh, fifteen or more years ago you could pick up the really good old sea island cotton polo shirts for about a fiver (if that). But they are unforgiving when pasted onto the middle-aged male torso. I'm sure Chris_H remarked on this at some time. And yet, at a low price, it's very tempting. We're about twenty minutes away from the factory shop.
Anybody bothered with Glenbrae golf sweaters? As a confirmed non-player I yet like golf sweaters. I've bought two recently, in navy. V-neck. Very restrained. I wear them around the house for the most part. Wouldn't want to do the Walk Of Shame.
I jest. The one my wife found yesterday, at a very reasonable £4, is NOT one hundred per cent wool. Very annoying. Do golfers need a good deal of stretchiness? My next-door neighbour plays and is an utter arse.
Anyway, sod it, I figure if we can wear golf jackets we can wear golf knitwear.
DW, to give them their due, have a decent dedicated knitwear thread: Ballanytyne and Alan Paine under discussion, for instance. They're quite right to be suspicious of modern Alan Paine - the best vintage offerings are to be found in the USA, often with pleasing labels. McGeorge also cropped up. I still wear a lovely cream v-neck cashmere sweater at certain time of the year. Goes with almost anything: jeans, cords, chinos. Wonderful bit of clothing.
Lord Jeff, an old made in the US brand are always worth a look on eBay. I’ve got a couple of their Shetlands that I bought deadstock and they are excellent.
There’s a cotton sweater of their’s on UK eBay at present that might fit me, but its got little boats embroidered on it so it doesn’t float mine.
Woof's quite right about the nautical horror. There's also something, again by Lord Jeff, that looks, just like George Eliot's live-in lover, as if it had been gnawed by rats.
In fact, exploring further, they're all either rather horrible else overpriced. Or both.
I take it back. Woof was right, I was in error. 'Lord Jeff' have turned out to be worth a punt: both examples picked up at reasonable money from Ebayers in the UK (one of whom told me she'd once bought a lot of American clobber from a fellow dealer). I didn't bother rechecking Ebay Com.
This thread, BTW, was worth reviving for Horace's comments. Stax - elsewhere - has spoken of the huge importation of Alan Paine knits to the US - and certainly the first two Alan Paine cashmere sweaters I bought came from American sellers and - even now - Alan Paine gear being offered on Ebay Com. is more interesting than what tends to be on offer in the UK (and can run expensive). But I'm still sometimes picking up Made In England/UK lambswool sweaters made for M&S when I see them. In fact, I changed into a navy v-neck mid-afternoon. Still pretty decent quality, no? One of my favourites - bottle green - I made the mistake of removing in a classroom, never to be seen again. No use asking the cleaners anything, of course...