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#1 2021-11-03 06:35:44

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Ivy Plain And Simple

JFM once said something interesting and memorable about making The Look 'less baroque'.  One of the older London boys, many moons ago, talked about a button-down and loafers as really defining the style.  Both JFM and our Gibson went for a more 'pared down' look when working at the Ivy Shop or at Russell Street.  Even the saintly Jeff G was known to slip off his loafers before leaving for home (though one assumes he didn't go barefoot).  So: a blue or white Makers shirt, some decent high-rise cuffed chinos and penny loafers?  I'm also thinking Mick Talbot here.  Anyway, it's the direction I've been heading in (more or less, less is more?) for some years now.  Not much in the way of experimentation.

You?

 

#2 2022-02-10 03:27:23

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

It's a brave soul indeed who bumps his own thread, particularly when there was a silence like Siberia.  But it was a plain, modest tribute to JFM - who observed it in others.
I think it might have been either Richmond Hill or Hill Rise who talked about a button-down and loafers as defining the style.  A Brooks Makers and USA-made Dexter?  Why not? 
It was thought-provoking to read TRSs posting from a couple of days ago about the rarity value of button-down collars and polo shirts back in the 80s.  It was all very 'square', like the wearing of a Burberrys' raincoat (that comes from The Weejun, circa 2008).  There had to be a degree - several degrees - of determination about it, when most men were probably still buying a shirt a year from M&S.

 

#3 2022-02-10 03:32:22

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

'Baroque' - my look upon an early visit to Russell Street, wearing an Italian wool/cashmere coat (navy) with a Peter Pan collar, yellow check Truval Career Club shirt, canary yellow Brooks cardigan, white Levis, cola-coloured desert boots.
They were in - and admittedly they were working - their pocket polo, denim shirt, sweatshirt or Ralph Lauren button-down. 
I learned something that day.

 

#4 2022-02-10 06:00:01

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

I'd like to think I could be totally simple in my wear, but we all crave some stimulation and variation.  It's also situational - seven hours yesterday on and off trains, a pair of loafers wouldn't last long.  It was also cold on those train platforms, so a wool coat and jumper were called for.  I also wore plain colours apart from a flecked Donegal style scarf - we each need a bit of something to make us smile. 

In general we're all trying to find the blend and balance that works for us, evolving as we age.  So it's a qualified yes from me.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-02-10 06:01:16)

 

#5 2022-02-10 06:31:36

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Well timed! I've spent the last few days - and it has taken days - sorting the wardrobe, which started out as the usual seasonal migration of removals boxes to and from the loft and garage.

I've had Patrick's post regarding thinning out on my mind. And following AUS's posts over the last few days had started wondering how much of my collection is down to ticking off items  my 18/20 year old self would have wanted. And how much I've been buying clothes and shoes that are only fit for places and situations I'm never in. How much I own vs how often I wear most of it.

To be honest, when it was all laid out I was kind of revulsed by it.

Still very much work in progress, but I'm working towards rebuilding it very much in line with AFS's posts above. Plain and simple. No fuss or frills. 'Fitting In' as AUS so brilliantly put it the other day.

Edit to above: Probably should point out that I'm rebuilding the wardrobe with items I already own. Not some kind of 'scorched earth' exercise

Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-02-10 06:54:17)

 

#6 2022-02-10 06:37:53

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Loafers are not much good in Winter. Leather soles are not very warm. In Summer, loafers can be crowded out by other options too.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#7 2022-02-10 06:57:47

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

We filled a bag with shoes and clothing last night.  They come through the letterbox.  This one is for cancer research so it's highly personal.  A pair of Clarks' desert boots went in, some Sperry Topsiders, a Ralph Lauren shirt, a Campus polo shirt (very 'Boom Years', but I decided to let it go anyway).  Then, this morning, I handed over a pair of Grenson chukka boots I've worn on and off for the past twelve years and never quite got on with. 
There are times when I fully understand Spendthrift's sense of revulsion, but I have certain things that I remain very attached to, such as the Alan Paine scarf Staceyboy (now posting, I believe, on Instagram) sent me as a gift.  Greetings, Mark, I hope you're well. 
I also sent four boxes of books to Oxfam last week.  Somehow, I enjoy thinning out more than acquiring and accumulating.

 

#8 2022-02-10 07:01:52

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

I still sometimes wonder, though, who ended up with those soft shouldered tweed jackets I parted with in January 2013.  Probably OAPs.

 

#9 2022-02-10 08:08:18

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Got to be very wary of those bags that come through the letterbox AFS. I’m sure you’re one was legit. Sometimes the small print on the bag mentions that 5% of profit goes to charity. They’re often collecting volume to sell on to God knows who.

I’m up to four large bin bags handed over to our local hospice shop. As you say, it feels better to get rid than to aquire.

 

#10 2022-02-10 08:42:11

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Always been a bit wary, certainly.  The Grenson at least went directly to a local charity shop. 
I still remember, years ago, getting into a punch-up with a little mob who lifted the charity box from a shop counter.  Amazing.

 

#11 2022-02-10 09:03:04

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

The other thing on clearing out.... those vintage purchases that don't lose the whiff.... it's sad but they have to go.  Letting go of a great Magee jacket where the aroma will not subside.

 

#12 2022-02-10 09:10:37

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

AUS is sadly right about this.  There's slightly musty and then there's...  something you just can't live with. 
Odd in a way because I love books with a slightly musty smell about them.  Stale cigarette smoke is positively the worse, though.
TRS has always said dry-cleaning takes the guts out of clothing.  Never had anything dry-cleaned since reading that.

 

#13 2022-02-11 13:31:06

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 904

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Going back to the original premise of this topic I really think it's slightly more complex.
It's not just any old button down shirt or loafers.
The button down at least should have a roll. Too small collars and it's a bit too fashion forward. Then you can play with the details. A locker loop, third collar button and Press flap pocket are nice add-ons that elevate the humble shirt into something quite refined.
Loafers. There are so many styles and brands out there now. Many will not appeal to the Ivy-styler but we still have plenty of options available - from cheap corrected grain to expensive Cordo. From beef roll to full strap and beyond.
Then we have the whole country of origin issue. I appreciate many on here prefer Made In The USA but how about Kamakura Vintage Ivy?
How about vintage originals versus modern and new.
The beauty of this thing of ours is how subtle it is. Yes, it can just be about a shirt and some shoes but it's means so much more than just being about a shirt and a pair of shoes.

 

#14 2022-02-11 14:12:53

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1272

Re: Ivy Plain And Simple

Ivy in the eye of a beholder.

If aiming for simplicity, then how simple? I don't like the collar back button or locker loop. I don't like the box pleat. I don't like a front pocket. I'll live with them but for me they are all redundant in a practical sense. 

The 3/2 roll ultimately is affectation too. I appreciate if there, but it certainly isn't a deal breaker. As an adult, I do not need a hidden button with no purpose. I see many rolled lapels without it, so it is really just a wink, a sign of being 'one of us' whatever that means to each person.

I think you get to a certain point where you decide for yourself. Of course go too far and it is no longer recognisably Ivy.  Only the wearer can decide if for them, with the journey they have had - that the choice works for them at that point.

I'll never wear a pin collar but others swear by them. It is why I am cautious of all the elements in one wearer.. as it looks like the cosplay it unintentionally becomes.

I'm perhaps further at the plain and simple end by now, for the reason  that I'd rather not be noticed than appeciated. Trying too hard too obviously, feels for me by now, too much. But I will enjoy seeing it on others. This is only my way.

So Ivy in the eye of the beholder...

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-02-11 15:03:33)

 

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