The Saturday F.T. has long been the best place for quality writing about 'culture', though I have always resisted purchasing, finding that every molecule in my Guardianista soul repulses at the very idea of shelling out on this neo-liberal rag. The only pink newspapers present in my life have been the Liverpool Football Echo and La Gazzetta Dello Sport. But a kindly neighbour, aware of my clothing obsessions, posted through my letter box a piece from the paper this Saturday on our favourite cult clothing shop - John Simons of Chiltern St, W1. For those of us well versed in the lingo of Ivy there is of course much to mock and be irritated by (I could do without the Weller stuff), but the article overall is well informed, fairly accurate and celebratory. Of special note I thought was the emphasis on women increasingly buying JS's clothes. I had noticed women featuring more in the shop's promotional material, and it's a move I welcome - the coolest women always being interested in men's clothes and turning away from reactionary notions of stereotypically female modes of dress. On this Paul Simons is quoted "They are attracted to our timeless style. They like the silhouettes". Another interesting angle is the attempt to clearly define 'UK Ivy' - Paul mentioning items such as workwear, silk scarves and panelled flat caps as items specifically part of the look in the UK. There's a nice pic of John in cord Keydge in front of his domestic art collection. And a quick online search also brought up the following article from January this year in which another FT journalist name-checks JS and bravely attempts to tackle the long-running thorny subject of the difference between Ivy and Preppy. https://www.ft.com/content/4ca6e08f-dc2d-407c-a130-f9d5b4f9fb88
So what is the difference? Simply a shift in time and emphasis? It's a continuing conundrum and one I was asked to explain to a sales assistant late last summer. I said, 'Er... er... it's very easy to define... er... um...' I waffled a bit about, in the first place, colour, then faltered. Besides, I could sense he was growing restless and there were other customers to serve.
The ladies seem to be really good at mixing it up. Taking a few items from Ivy and putting them with items us fellas can’t or wont.
Probably they’re not so prone to nailing their colours to the mast as we can be? More concerned and naturally in tune with what works for them rather than achieving the pinnacle of any particular style or look at all costs.
All the girls I’ve seen in any JS promo look fantastic I think.
Agree Spendthrift. Some very stylish gals round my neighbourhood mixing together lots of looks in an inventive way. Blokes tend to need 'the rules' or it can go haywire, though few seem to actually know 'the rules' at all! Many of the girls I've fancied have worn men's clothes and just look all the more feminine and attractive precisely due to this juxtaposition.
Diane Keaton looked simply adorable in 'Annie Hall'. I think she and Woody were both clothed by Ralph Lauren for the occasion.
If only young women could be persuaded to stop wearing DMs. Or are they about to become - because somebody at Chiltern Street imagines it's permissible - somehow 'Ivy'? I see it all drifting into hipster territory.
https://www.ft.com/content/9ec5b7d9-5c67-41a6-85d9-9984534a3323
There's also: https://www.ft.com/content/4ca6e08f-dc2d-407c-a130-f9d5b4f9fb88
Silk scarves and work wear... hmmm... 'mixing it up' maybe - but is it really 'UK Ivy', whatever that's now supposed to mean?
There are, on the other hand, still plenty of tasty things on offer at Chiltern Street.
My wife used to wear my off white Harrington jacket when we first met in the mid 70s. She looked better in it than I ever did. She also used to wear my BD shirts and to this day she wears my old cardigan and my t shirts. She knows all about Ivy and used to come shopping with me at JS in Covent Garden.
She does have a pair of white DMs which she got cheaply during an anniversary offer at the Covent Garden DM shop. She's only worn them a couple of times though.
2RS - not sure if you had the whole magazine or just the article.
The FT magazine was a women's fashion special so I guess the author felt obliged to put a spin on it.
From you post I imagine you secreting the FT in between the pages of a top shelf magazine so not to be confused with someone from Canary Wharf.
Silk scarf, chore jacket, flat cap. East End barrow boy look. Petticoat lane 1960s or going back further my grandfathers working in the Royal docks. Love it. It's my heritage and if Paul says it's Ivy I'll take that.
Better that, quite frankly, than the £50, Chinese-made Haggar rubbish I was offered on my last visit to Russell Street.