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#151 2022-02-28 07:21:45

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'I'm really not sure that JS sell an awful lot that appeal to mods - as opposed to modernists.

Weller collaborations will always be of interest. Loafers. BD's maybe. Overcoats.'

The thing is, even if the mod customer base ignores the majority of stock, if there are enough customers buying a small number of items then from an economic perspective it's still very good news for JS. That Weller fisherman sweater seems to have sold massively.

As re. the price and style differences between JS and the other mod shops: many of the mod shops of today have been around since the 90s. I suspect their style, quality and prices are right for the mod market of the past. Nowadays some of those same customers must be bored of wearing unflattering, average looking stuff, and must be old and/or desperate enough not to mind spending more per item. But they still want to be mods and they still love Weller.

I've not seen the JS doc but I did see a quote from it going on about how he clothed the mods back in the 60s. Which is bullshit for the most part. Nonetheless that will have done him wonders for getting mod customers. Now he's doing the right things to capitalise on it. As would I in his shoes.

Last edited by Yuca (2022-02-28 07:55:12)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#152 2022-02-28 07:48:50

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

With John Simons, just about all bases have been covered regarding anyone who likes a haircut and a shower on a fairly regular basis. 
The 'Mod' angle was already being played up when Russell Street was still going.  'The Influential Factor' was on sale there, for instance.  But I never detected much 'Mod' (or 'skinhead'/'peanut'/whatever) influence aside from the obvious ones: the G9 and the Bass Weejuns.  Oh, and, perhaps, Florsheim desert boots (Made In Italy).  But I don't think John minded the connections being made.  Why would he have?  Who turns away a potential customer?
(Ian Strachan, that's who).

 

#153 2022-02-28 07:52:05

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'Nowadays some of those same customers must be bored of wearing unflattering, average looking stuff, and must be old and/or desperate enough not to mind spending more per item'

Oh certainly. A lot of the faces I see on JS Facebook are old mods. In the last week or so. Bob Morris, Mark Baxter. Plenty more. Whenever I have a peek at mod event photos I'm amazed and a bit sad that a lot of those guys clearly can't see how unflattering they're dressing these days.

As a successful retailer John's clearly always done whatever it takes to get people through the door. And Paul's obviously the one who can see the benefit of FB, IG etc. fair play to both of them.

 

#154 2022-02-28 08:00:06

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'The 'Mod' angle was already being played up when Russell Street was still going.'

I had certainly never heard of the place until I discovered this forum. I believe knowledge of JS amongst mods is now far, far higher than it has ever been previously. Mainly due to the factors mentioned previously i.e. recent media articles that mention and exaggerate his mod credentials; collaborating (successfully) with Weller; and the mod scene now containing people who for various reasons are open to some JS items.

Last edited by Yuca (2022-02-28 09:22:25)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#155 2022-02-28 08:09:21

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Yuca, the publicity over the past, what, ten or a dozen years has been intensive.  I think only the 'Christian Science Monitor' and 'Woman's Weekly' have failed to pick John Simons' brains, turn him upside down and shine a spotlight on him, improvise crap etc. etc.  I only hope it's paying off for him and for Paul.  I avoid London like the plague nowadays, so am hardly likely to be paying a return visit to Chiltern Street, but for those who do - don't step on it, it might be Paul Weller...

 

#156 2022-02-28 08:14:28

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The publicity in question costs nothing for JS and staff except the time it takes to be interviewed, so I'm sure it is paying off. And I'm sure it makes reasonably successful articles for the newspapers etc involved too.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#157 2022-02-28 12:04:23

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I worked part time in J.Simons, on and off, between 1986 and 1990. We saw perhaps 'a mod a month', or a little cluster would come in, sniff the loafers (Weejuns normally), and never buy a thing. They cared of nothing else, didn't know a sausage about Ivy League, or natural shoulder, or proper baggy American button-downs. They sneered at tweed, at chinos, at sweatshirts, at T-shirts. Almost to a man, they were ignorant, incurious arseholes. The internet has changed the rules. There is a mass of information out there, or to be more accurate, disinformation. JS is on the map, the mod legend is exaggerated, and Paul Simons is, astutely, repositioning and redefining the business as having a close relationship with the 50s and 60s. The old shops weren't retro, the new one is, but this is a reflection of the huge shifts in our culture, in the way people shop and acquire information. The old ways are over, which I personally lament as I think the internet's influence is primarily malicious.

 

#158 2022-02-28 12:14:39

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Most of the range available in the shop is represented on the JS website, so what items are specifically ‘Mod’ ?


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#159 2022-02-28 12:43:56

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Loafers.
Sometimes longwings
Button down shirts (but mods like fitted)
PLAIN crew, mock and polo neck sweaters
Those new overcoats
Raincoats
Socks

 

#160 2022-02-28 12:48:09

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Desert boots
Harringtons

 

#161 2022-02-28 13:09:06

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The idea that mod clothing can be defined in the same way that ivy clothing can is a misconception. Most of the top mods back in the day rarely or never got photographed. The 80s mod scene codified the mod look as being hipster trousers, suit jacket with covered buttons, tight fitting BD shirt with a closed pleat at the back and a 3 button collar, etc etc. But the evidence suggests that back in the day the mod scene, particularly up to around 1964, was a hell of a lot more varied and interesting than that. Maybe not the masses, but certainly the Soho elite.

My point being that a real mod could take any item in JS and make it work.

Last edited by Yuca (2022-02-28 13:10:02)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#162 2022-02-28 13:20:10

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'Paul Simons is, astutely, repositioning and redefining the business as having a close relationship with the 50s and 60s. The old shops weren't retro, the new one is, but this is a reflection of the huge shifts in our culture, in the way people shop and acquire information. The old ways are over, which I personally lament as I think the internet's influence is primarily malicious.'

I went to 2 Russell St once and bought a sand G9. Almost identical to what the top mods wore on RSG back in the day when they were demoing the block (a dance). That's pretty damn retro. But of course other items were more contemporary albeit still ivy. And JS has always carried his classic sellers (Bass, Pendleton, etc), which are as retro as the companies in question want them to be at any given time.

To me a lot of JS's new designs are tweaked for contemporary tastes. I've not seen them in the flesh but his overcoats all seem to be shorter and tighter fitting than vintage. Presumably because nowadays most people will wear them with jeans and maybe a jumper, and making them shorter makes them look less formal/old-fashioned.

As for the influence of the internet: if it hadn't been for the internet I wouldn't have found ivy (or JS) until a few years later. And I was already getting on a bit when I finally discovered what ivy clothing actually means.

Last edited by Yuca (2022-02-28 13:27:38)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#163 2022-02-28 13:26:05

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Yes that’s definitely right. And an awful lot was worn that hasn’t really been seen since; faded and patched jeans, long leather coats, bell bottoms, sailor shirts. Cuban heeled boots. I read that Bolan or one of his mates had a kind of all in one catsuit made that had all the local mods fawning.

There was a lot of room back then for creativity and individualism

 

#164 2022-02-28 13:30:01

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I was responding to Yuka’s first point there. But agree with his second.

I don’t have a problem with classics being bought up to date for modern tastes/takes. Stops it feeling like dress up to me.

The power of JS. Two blokes who have never or rarely visited discussing them. Job done!

 

#165 2022-02-28 13:32:03

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'I read that Bolan or one of his mates had a kind of all in one catsuit made that had all the local mods fawning.'

To be honest I don't find the Town photos of Bolan and chums massively appealing. They seemed to have downplayed the US and continental influences. And a catsuit just sounds like someone coming to terms with being bi or gay.

The likes of Mickey Tenner, Meaden, Dexter etc were more up my street. Although the High Numbers didn't wear them particularly well, the outfits Meaden chose for them have some nice elements.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#166 2022-02-28 13:40:11

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

'The power of JS. Two blokes who have never or rarely visited discussing them. Job done!'

I've been to Russell St once and the new place 2 or 3 times. And ordered online once. I don't even particularly keep up to date with their site and IG. But of course TRS knows the shop a lot more closely than we do.

What I find very ironic or revealing (or something) is that there are 2 contradictory things going on here: post pandemic I feel like wearing bonafide ivy clothing has become considerably more anachronistic than it was even 5 years ago. And yet now more than ever ivy is in the media i.e. JS gets regular write ups in the national press, and it's only a few years ago that The Ivy Look was published (to great success).

Last edited by Yuca (2022-02-28 13:40:48)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#167 2022-02-28 13:43:06

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1267

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

When I pasted the text from the JS tweet that stimulated discussion, what I found most interesting was that it emphasized French and Japanese influences and didn't even mention American. Of course other posts do, I just thought it interesting that those two aspects are attractive enough to buyers to emphasize.

BBC has a radio series about modernist art and literature being a hundred years old at present. Even the broad  context JS references is at least sixty years ago. The phrase is by now itself an anachronism and doesn't add much.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-02-28 13:43:57)

 

#168 2022-02-28 13:54:05

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I think modernism has so many different meanings that it's meaningless in any conversation unless it's carefully defined. The modernists of mid to late 50s London were so called due to being into modern jazz. Any connection to art and literature from decades earlier is dubious in my opinion. And the mods of the 60s certainly weren't interested in anything from decades past. The whole concept of taking drugs and staying up all night enjoying contemporary black American music whilst dressed up to the nines was something completely new in 1950s London. The only literature that I imagine was considered relevant would be the existentialists.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#169 2022-02-28 14:04:16

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I also wasn’t particularly impressed with those Town photos. Like Richard Barnes ‘mods’ book, the narrative doesn’t quite match up with the images. Maybe it’s just too difficult for us now in the digital age to appreciate the clothes and attitudes in the wider context of the time? Rationing a recent memory. No bathrooms or central heating. No high streets full of disposable up to the minute clothing. Family radio(gram) for entertainment. A very grey world that I suspect we’re not capable of getting our heads around. In the middle of that, they probably looked incredible.

I thought that apart from Moon, who was always the only photogenic one, The High Numbers looked pretty poor. Daltrey and Entwistle clearly told what to wear and how to have their hair. Townsend looks like he’s borrowed his gear from a bigger boy.

Yes AUS as we get further away from it ‘modern’ is certainly proving to be an unfortunate term for it.

Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-02-28 14:05:45)

 

#170 2022-02-28 14:12:36

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Agreed BUT when you see for example Tenner and co. doing the block in Levis, G9s and cycling shirts - for me it's a very stylish and classic look. Yes they were probably only 15 at the time, and I certainly wouldn't want to recreate it exactly. But change the cycling shirt for a polo shirt and in the right weather it's a look I love.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#171 2022-02-28 14:31:40

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Absolutely timeless look.

One that’s carried me through from early teens till now. I don’t think I dressed too old then, or too young now.

 

#172 2022-02-28 14:44:07

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Yuca has reminded me that i have a wool Le Coq made in France cycling jersey. A claret and a blue hoop design. It is a thing of beauty but the moths got to it a few years back.It's still wearable in summer. I must have bought it because of some sub conscious inner mod thing going on in my head.
I never did buy the bowling shoes that I once coverted. Impractical for street wear I always thought.

Last edited by RobbieB (2022-02-28 14:45:35)


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#173 2022-02-28 15:04:50

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I had some great cycling shirts around the early 90’s from Cenci in Covent Garden. A real treasure trove that place.

I had some plain black bowling shoes from one of those dodgy Carnaby St shops. But I don’t think I ever actually wore them. Very much a case of what looks good on a pop star doesn’t necessarily work in normal life. I found the same with my Freddie Mercury moustache. And that Spice Girls union flag mini dress.

 

#174 2022-02-28 15:20:51

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I for one am intrigued by Robbie's post, and would love to see his coq.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#175 2022-02-28 15:51:58

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Like I said my Le Coq is a thing of beauty. If a little moth eaten. HaHa


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

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