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#1 2021-10-05 08:55:05

A Fine Sadness
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Posts: 3009

O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

No-one would dare - would they?  I thought Nantucket Reds were bad enough, but these...  Prep with knobs on?  Even patch Madras is preferable to this - or is it?  On Ebay as we speak/type...

 

#2 2021-10-05 10:10:27

Yuca
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Posts: 8568

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

I found some on Ebay in yellow, pink and green. Here is where we see that ivy and preppie are indeed different animals.

Maybe for someone in the US who got into preppie in the 1970s or 80s they appeal. In which case, I hope they at least reserve them for wearing solely whilst on holiday.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#3 2021-10-05 10:59:42

A Fine Sadness
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Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Right.

 

#4 2021-10-05 12:05:39

Tworussellstreet
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Posts: 599

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Mayor Larry Vaughn in Jaws. 70s Ivy. The decade that did not appreciate subtlety. I've never understood all this nonsense that distinguishes preppy from Ivy. They draw from the same well, were worn by the same people for the same reasons. There just happened to be a 10 year period, roughly 1955 to 1965, when the look went mainstream, but outside of this golden period the clothes were always an indicator of a kind of exclusivity. I'm talking US here. When the look travels it all goes bonkers. The UK, France, Japan etc.. they all do it for different reasons.

 

#5 2021-10-05 12:12:18

Yuca
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Posts: 8568

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

A preppy might love those trousers. An ivyist (or ivy clothing fan) would think: wtf? Therein lies the difference.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#6 2021-10-05 12:30:39

A Fine Sadness
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Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

I look and almost disbelieve.  But what Gibson says holds water.  The difference between Ivy League and preppie - which does exist in subtle forms (then there's 'generic Americana') - was a Jimmy obsession, a stick with which to beat, well, anyone who disagreed with him.  Now, here's the rub, faced with the aforementioned O'Connell or Fred Perry and bovver boots, which would you choose?  Gun at head time.  As Gibson says, 'bonkers'.  There must be a third way, yes?  That's our look, I suppose: Anglo-Ivy more or less.  O'Connell's do sell Barbour and Gloverall, too.

 

#7 2021-10-05 12:37:06

A Fine Sadness
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Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

What is the look that Pete Campbell's father is sporting?  Affluent, self-satisfied - of its time?  Around the time I was born, I think.  Did it travel then?  I wonder.  I don't know, I just wonder.  JFM was very insistent, wasn't he?

 

#8 2021-10-05 12:44:33

Yuca
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Posts: 8568

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Ironically (perhaps) a preppy probably would pair those trousers with a Perry. Back in the 70s and 80s Perry was seen in the US purely for what it was: good quality British sportswear. Perfect for vacations.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#9 2021-10-05 12:47:07

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

As for our look being Anglo-ivy: the only Anglo items I like are the ones that were adopted many years ago by US ivy fans i.e. Shetlands, Baracuta etc etc. I can't think of any Anglo clothes I like that are not part of the ivy canon.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#10 2021-10-05 12:50:30

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Yes.  A good many crossings and recrossings of the water perhaps.  There is a thread somewhere, I think, concerning the boss of the Andover Shop scouting bleak northern regions for fabrics.  Horace should speak on this subject again.

 

#11 2021-10-05 13:34:23

RobbieB
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Posts: 2219

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Yuca makes a good point re Anglo clothes. I don't consider myself hardcore Ivy but I can't think of any Anglo clothes that I like that are not part of the Ivy canon. When I bought the Graham Marsh book 'The Ivy Look' years ago I was surprised that practically everything in my wardrobe was covered in the book.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#12 2021-10-05 16:45:54

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Not just the Graham Marsh book thank you very much. J.P.Gaul wrote all the best bits, including the essay on Japanese Ivy.

 

#13 2021-10-05 23:37:34

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Apologies to JP Gaul. No slight intended.
I liked the book but Jim had a bit of a go at me on here years ago when I mentioned it. Not sure what his point was at the time.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#14 2021-10-06 01:12:39

Skipper
Member
Posts: 91

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

"I've never understood all this nonsense that distinguishes preppy from Ivy. They draw from the same well, were worn by the same people for the same reasons. There just happened to be a 10 year period, roughly 1955 to 1965, when the look went mainstream, but outside of this golden period the clothes were always an indicator of a kind of exclusivity. I'm talking US here."

This quote gets right to the point. The differences between Ivy and Preppy are purely academic. Except for the period when these clothes were mass-marketed, they have always been part of the lifestyle of a very well-defined socio-economic group, and still are today. Not only in the US, by the way. In the UK, people have a different idea of it because the reference to these clothes was made through subcultures like Mods and Skinheads there. This is a completely different concept where clothing is the focus, which is not the case in the US. I think that's one of the reasons Americans and Brits often get into quarreling on this subject online.

Last edited by Skipper (2021-10-06 01:15:04)

 

#15 2021-10-06 01:27:41

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Yes, had those groups in the UK latched onto something different, the story itself would be different.  We are told that John Simons had rather a different customer in mind.  All the same, I think a 'Third Way' has developed: probably complicating things.  Only the other week, though, I was asked to explain the difference between 'Ivy' and 'prep'.  I soon got rather bogged down.

 

#16 2021-10-06 02:39:16

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

I do wonder what might be said if the word 'preppie' was used to describe the clothing sold by JS over the years.  John might shrug, look away and find something that urgently needs doing, like putting a pair of shoes straight.  Can't think what Paul's reaction might be.  But, when selling a Harrington jacket to some journalist whose wife called it 'beige', John Lally simply smiled.  Or so we read.  (Article in 'The Independent' re the closing of the Ivy Shop).  'Natural', not beige.  I might be wrong but I do still think of a lot of clothing as 'American' rather than one hundred per cent 'Ivy League'.  But, if I see RL, Hollister, Land's End, Orvis I'm not going to start jumping up and down with excitement.  I do not, however, anticipate seeing Brooks, Press, Paul Stuart, Chipp etc. in my nearest 'vintage' shop.  It's more likely to be Penney standard.  I might look it over, but almost certainly won't buy it.  I'll look for something Italian instead.

 

#17 2021-10-08 05:45:49

A Fine Sadness
Member
Posts: 3009

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

Skipper and Gibson raise interesting points here.  JFM would have jumped all over it.  And yet, if you look at a few dozen images of, say, 'Golden Age' shirts (and the 'vintage' sellers and their customers can get excited by these), you might begin to question the orthodoxy.  Towncraft at £60?  For a few pounds more you can get cotton Brooks.  Were Gant 'Ivy League'?  Were Paul Stuart?  Dacron/rayon/acrylic I do not like.  'Golden Age', though. 
If I fancy a secondbest shirt I'll take 100 cotton 'Preppie' over man-made/blend 'Golden Age'. 
Most don't know or care anyway.  But I'll be asking my daughters to chip in for deadstock for birthday and Christmas.

 

#18 2022-03-20 17:21:58

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: O'Connell's Patch Gingham Check Trousers

We've just finished watching 'Jaws'.  Nothing I saw on Murray Hamilton would I choose to wear.

 
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