By which I mean the combination of tweed Ivy sports jacket over a polo shirt. JFK did it - a pic in The Ivy Look of a lightweight tweed with what looks like a Lacoste, top-button done up.
Bobby also did it - a slouchy version with polo shirt buttons undone and collars popping out a bit, under a nice soft tweed. Feels wrong, looks right. Essence of Ivy in my opinion - unusual juxtapositions, a smidgen of sprezzatura, casual cool.
I think it's possible that Michael Murphy did it in 'Manhattan'. This observation is based only upon a black and white still I've seen.
I would hazard a guess that none of our current forum members would touch the look with a ten-metre Ivy bargepole.
Not with a light tweed Ivy. But I'm very close to it today.
Navy polo, olive three button casual cotton jacket (Universal Works), very old Gap khakis, billed as 'slim', but are baggy flappers compared with today's spray on version of slim. Belly button rise too. White Sperry CVO's.
Practising a spot of spezzatura, as this time next week I'll be sipping espresso in Rome.
I'm envious. I haven't been in Rome since around 2008. I recall a violent storm. Then, as we boarded the train to Venice, the skies darkened and it began pissing it down. I saw a good many cement factories on that journey.
As for the look - are the khakis 'a preacher's width'? Bill's could be a bit like that.
Sprezzatura is a difficult thing to pull off convincingly. One has to pretty well not give a fuck what the world and its wife is thinking. About anything. Like John Simons, you have to shed all that consciousness about the clothes on your back. A chap like Kennedy could do that. Sinatra could do it. McQueen could do it. I expect Paul Newman could do it.
Most posting on a forum like this cannot.
Sprezzatura, I would say, is a virtually impossible concept/objective for any man who ever thought of himself seriously as a 'Mod' (i.e. too cool for school) - or even half-seriously (was that at all likely?). In fact, I'd put money on that entire way of thinking about external appearances never leaving you. Am I right? Besides, what is sprezzatura? Is it not something to do with irony, a touch of arrogance, some well-placed piss-taking?
This is where we come back to a chap like Johnny Simons - The GUv'nor - sitting on that stool at Russell Street wearing an untucked denim shirt and filthy white Sebago lacking laces. Now there's confidence for you.
I really don't know about these khakis AFS. Saw them in a charity for £7 odd. Thought they were worth trying on for that. In the changing room mirror appeared the spit of JFK's standing on that boat. I tried to post a link but it got spammed. You'll know it anyway.
All I know is they're Gap. So nothing special. And slim fit, But not. With a mighty rise. In the same shop I picked up an olive RL polo, barely worn for a fiver. Nice when that happens.
You're right, I couldn't do spezzatura. It doesn't compute with me. Put a lot of effort into looking like you haven't? Or that you've got it wrong but don't care? If I'm going to put the effort in I want to look like it. Or not put the effort in and release myself from any thought on it at all. The closest I get to spezzatura is the occasional lapse into some kind of flat fronted, buttoned down 'riviera' look.
Mind you, I also no longer find the full mod a good look. Too obsessed about matching socks and tops for me these days.
Last edited by Spendthrift (2022-03-23 07:17:57)
I know it. I've seen a whole lot of snapshots of JFK and Bobby (etc.).
As for that shop, I should keep the name of it to yourself lest the hordes descend. I don't need another single shirt but I can't help browsing. You know how it is. 'Gap' were once okay. I inherited a jacket from my father I wore for a while. I even recall seeing 'Banana Republic' at Russell Street (when, as JFM told me, his tongue somewhat in his cheek, it was beginning to look like a branch of Sue Ryder). JFM always put the stress on The Look, be it Uniqlo or whatever. My perspective has been slightly different. But only slightly.
(BTW, I'm not even certain if TRS does the sprezzy thing. His dressing is, I would say, 'considered'. Same goes for most of us).
AFS said ‘ I would hazard a guess that none of our current forum members would touch the look with a ten-metre Ivy bargepole’
I wouldn’t like to venture an opinion on this as the only people amongst the current regular posters whom I’ve seen a picture of, or met, are Yuca and 2RS.
Personally I don’t aspire to wear filthy shoes with no laces even if John Simons did it. But earlier in the week I deployed stone coloured 5 pockets and a grey light tweed jacket with a navy polo underneath. I think it’s a good look and very wearable in today’s world of overly casual dressing.
That, Woof, is what I would call 'considered'. Loafers? Desert boots?
AFS - thanks, suede Paraboot split toe lace ups.
On Sprezzatura … the other night I was in the French House and there was a chap sitting at the bar wearing a flourished pocket square in his jacket pocket and another in the breast pocket of his overcoat. I had this down as a premeditated act.
Another act, which I was more admiring of, was done by an older gent who was sitting at the bar wearing a Trilby and minding his own business. He had his own cushion, the pub was busy and when he got up to go the toilet he produced a little plastic ‘Reserved’ sign from his pocket and put it on the bar in front of his stool and drink.
Perhaps the key is, simplicity without overegging the pudding. Less is more. Pared down. Less 'baroque' as JFM once put it (nicely).
A lot of the students pictured for 'Take Ivy' look, well, natural but as if they're perhaps running late for a lecture. I wonder to what extent (if any) the notion of sprezzatura came into it (my guess would be, not at all, they simply put on what came to hand and was reasonably clean).
Untucked? Not for me. Grubby shoes? Generally speaking - no - although I don't do a huge amount of polishing nowadays.
But that, Woof, is what I would call a neat, metropolitan, urban look.
Jeff Garet and Ken Lovegrove were always, I think, 'considered'. They'd glanced in the mirror before leaving the house.
Who doesn't?
'Unusual juxtapositions': an interesting way of putting it. It would be nice if TRS could pick up on this theme and expand it a little.
Woof, I was wearing a similar outfit yesterday - brown tweed jacket, merino polo, stone bedford 5 pockets, suede chukkas. To use AFS's phrase, I felt very "metropolitan" as I sipped a coffee in the sunshine. At least until a gust of wind blew away the papers I was reading, when I had to scramble to retrieve them in an undignified manner.
As a name-dropping sidebar, I once was at dinner with JFK's sister Jean, in the 1990s. Intriguingly, she had a tendency to refer to her late brother as "my president".
Oh, and hello all again. Good to see the place active once more.
I've had a fascination with the Kennedys for a long time. It's resulted in having quite a number of different books about them relating to politics, photos, family history, etc.
I have even visited the JFK Museum on the outskirts of Boston to get a first hand feel for the man.
I think my attraction stems from the fact that they're the polar opposites of British politicians who make a virtue of being boring or having a very narrow world view to draw on.
The Kennedys evoked a lifestyle of American leisure that was at the intersection of Hollywood glamour and the post war consumer boom.
Leaving the politics to one side and looking purely from a clothing perspective as well as the shot of him in the tweed jacket there are a number of his iconic looks that resonate with me - the polo shirt on his yacht, the shawl collared cardigan, the Nantucket reds whilst playing golf, the sunglasses, the narrow cut suits with rep ties.
There are a few bad looks; such as suit trousers and converse and ill fitting wide white trousers with black shoes - but not many. For a guy who lived his life in front of the camera it's surprising how often he looked good.
I appreciate that the visual appeal is down to his good looks and the context but there is no doubt in my mind that he managed to pull-off casual clothing with élan.
He's perhaps Ivy Icon Number One.
I read a slightly hair-raising story involving his corpse and Lyndon Johnson just the other week.
Nantucket Reds no-one in the UK will do. Uptight, you see. I've seen them worn to good effect on Breton gentlemen. Tried them myself, once, ten years ago this coming summer, together with (though not at the same time) a pair of socks and a polo shirt. I still have and wear the socks.
Frankly, I have no fascination with them. My great university mentor, the late Professor David Adams, head of American Studies at Keele, despised them. His great hero was FDR. Still, as you say, politics on one side. I've always been more interested in Truman, Stevenson and Johnson.
Bringing politics back again, I was enchanted to read that the great liberal Eugene McCarthy endorsed Reagan for President in 1980.
Stick with the look, the style and imagery of the Kennedys.You have to put the politics aside.
Why, I hear you ask?
Because of being politicians. They're all at some point devious fucks.
That’s it, I’m taking my Nantucket Reds to the charity shop, that bit about the the professor did it for me.
Professor Adams was an elegant dresser, as was Bobby Garson, who taught on 20th century US foreign policy. David was a good friend of Tom Wolfe and often wore a cream linen suit. Also a tweed overcoat in the autumn and winter and a hat sporting a feather.
JFK in yellow strides and velvet slippers on 'Ivy Style'... Would Richard Press have approved?
I expect it's a look the average skinhead would have copied circa 1969 had he but known about it.
Velvet slippers when taking an end?