If you're willing to wear a seersucker suit or jacket, even Madras (probably not patch), you might well go for this look. I saw a pair of saddle bucks the other day (almost certainly for a girl with small feet) and I remembered the pair I once kicked around in and the pair JS sold me - 'a piece of history' - for resale when I was selling 'generic Americana' from a stall in a draughty antiques centre (in Heanor, AUS will know it). As for white bucks, well, they became nicely unwhite (as did the laces) in next to no time. But - I simply went off them. I was into more full-on Ivy then. Even my underwear was FOTL. Only the damn socks were European (Falke: a tad overrated perhaps). Would any of you sport them? Either of them? I can picture Yuca in white bucks.
I'm still pondering the feasibility/practicality of buying my second pair of saddle bucks. I bought a pair of Walk Over dirty bucks recently, which are eminently satisfactory, yet I still crave that early 1970s Woody 'Play It Again, Sam' look: the shirt with sleeves rolled, rumpled chinos, maybe even the fishing hat.
None of these, I think, currently find much favour on 'Talk Ivy'. In fact, I'd go so far as to say the hardcore American influence is in terminal decline.
I’ve never owned white’s. Dirty or otherwise. I like them though. If the confidence is there I would argue that they make much less of a statement than the big white logo covered blobs most men manage to put in their feet without fear of causing pointing and laughing. An image search for ‘white bucks ivy league’ shows them being worn very well I think. In both Trad and modern contexts.
Doing the same for saddle bucks throws up many more Trad pictures. They’re very much more of their time I think. And yes. There is something about them that’s a bit girly. Albeit a very cute girly. Probably skipping along next to Jimmy Stewart?
Woody's character was surely, from movie to movie, a 'throwback' - and never more so than in 'Play It Again, Sam', which, as a play, had been set in New York (Greenwich Village, I think). The look would, in San Francisco, have been conservative. Trad? Ivy? Or just Woody?
The white buck might have been more of a Southern look. Once upon a time, on this forum, an American poster would have kept us informed. But saddle bucks, like loafers and canvas low-tops, were worn by both sexes. I'm willing to bet, though, that - as Spendthrift says - saddle bucks were worn mostly by girls. But in which time period? The recent biography of Sinatra I was reading claimed that his female fans wore jeans with cuffs and loafers. This would be before 1940 (give or take a year or two).
>The white buck might have been more of a Southern look
It was very much a look associated with New York law firms https://daily.jstor.org/white-shoes-wasps-and-law-firms/ though I would doubt they actually wore them to the office much
Not Southern, then? At all?
Of course, the thing to do with white bucks was make sure to dirty them, including the laces, which could be soaked in dirty water. It was all a bit like sandpapering the collar, flaying a heavy tweed jacket against a wall or laying a beige raincoat in the road for vehicles to pass over.
Mods, you will have averted your eyes.
One of those items that doesn’t cross the Atlantic very well? Certainly you would need to exercise caution with what else you wore. A pale blue seersucker suit (as just launched by JS) would by itself already be right on the edge for the UK, the addition of a pair of white bucks might push you squarely into ‘can I have a flake in mine’ territory.
A few years ago I saw some Rancourt white bucks in J Press NY, they were a quality item as you might expect from Rancourt. The red sole had Goodyear stitching and instead of being the dead flat, lethal in the wet, type it was the red version of a Dianite sole., very solid, hardwearing and grippy, They had metal eyelet lace holes enabling the use of round stringlike laces. Plus beautiful white suede. I was smitten, on of those items you didn’t know you needed until you walked into the shop. I dithered over them for a while then took the plunge. Brought them home, wore them a couple of times, felt a bit self conscious then put them in my wardrobe and forgot about them.
Now I have reached an age where I worry less about what other people think, I have undergone a white buck renaissance and they have gone into action this spring. I have worn them a few times for walks along the towpath into town during the daytime with jeans. Most people probably think you are wearing trainers. Last night we went out with friends in Windsor, I deployed wheat colour Levis, a JS madras long sleeve shirt and a J Keydge jacket. I reached for the white bucks …. and bottled it.
I wouldn't wear white bucks with wheat coloured Levis. Sneakers perhaps but not bucks. I'd be more likely, though, to wear a tan or mid-brown chukka boot. I can't remember exactly what I wore my white bucks with but I almost certainly wore saddle bucks with my favourite L.L.Bean jeans with the stitched-in cuff. But the dirty bucks that came out of the window at Russell Street saw a great deal more action. If it hadn't been for the red brick heels wearing down I'd still be wearing them now.
I'm not convinced that, when it comes to it, I'll buy another pair of saddle bucks.
Once I bought a cheap new pair of white bucks on eBay from a small concern over Essex way that made and sold retro shoes. On arrival they looked good, but after a couple of outings the red brick heel had worn down so much they were verging on unwearable. It back before the days when buyers had an any rights on eBay and when I contacted the seller they pretty much blanc’ed me.
I've got a pair of Walkover chukka boots with a red sole and although I'm light on my feet the heel has worn down very quickly. I can still just about wear them but don't feel I've got good value from a made in USA shoe.
I think Robbie raises a good point here. The Dexter bucks I had from Russell Street lasted just about four years before wearing them would have been risky. I can't remember whether or not the soles are capable of being repaired/replaced, although I have a funny feeling Chris_H said it was possible.
Once it was almost impossible to get the brick red soles replaced, but John Rushton can get it done for you, as I believe can Chris, in Michael's, South Lambeth Rd.
Interesting that the red soles can be replaced but I suspect that the cost is too much for saving my Walkovers.
I'm afraid my Dexter went in the bin. I was mightily upset last year when my favourite, my very favourite desert boots gave up the ghost, the layers of crepe dividing. I was assured by a repairer nothing could be done then by another a repair job would be possible. Too late. I bought those boots in Italy a good many years ago and no-one on 'Talk Ivy' in the old days knew the make: 'Garrett'. I'd love another pair but they wouldn't be the same. Those had memories of that particular holiday (the first time I'd seen Dickies being sold as street wear).