Since J Keydge disappeared again, I was wondering what options people knew of for unstructured slack jackets?
Although there seems to be a continuous churning out of examples on the high street, they tend to miss many of the important details of the 3/2, three patch pockets and a proper natural shoulder (some seem to sit weirdly, it seems).
I once had a decent-ish Orvis jacket (which was slightly longer in cut, which was a benefit), and of course, there's the John Simons 'ivy' jackets, but wondering if there were any other options available?
I'm mainly looking for a classic navy cotton jacket, but obviously other options/fabrics always a bonus!
It's one of those jackets that you might, just might, find something out there by a random company that surprisingly ticks all the boxes.
Uniqlo are always worth checking for this stuff - their design team generally have good taste!
I loved Keydge and since their sad demise have spent many hours hunting for alternatives. Let me share with you my experiences.
I bought from Orvis in the USA a superb semi structured tweed. The only problem was the shoulders were far too wide for my liking. Also, I got into an argument with HMRC about the fact I had returned it.
Ralph currently do a lot of darted but Ivy correct jackets under the banner Custom Fit. They are a bit neat but usually very good materials and construction. I would check a large TK MAXX for these.
On Ebay you'll be able to find the occasional undarted Polo unstructured jacket in Oxford cloth or cotton. These are usually found in the States and are typically merchandise made for department stores.
Uniqlo currently have a navy patch/flap pocket, single vented, undarted blazer. It's 2 button and cheap but having seen this in the flesh the fabric looks really poor.
Brooks did a lovely "knitted" wool 3 unstructured blazer in a deep blue. Looked superb. Made in Italy but was only 2 button. Red Fleece jackets crop up occasionally on Ebay that are Ivy Correct.
Beams + - they have most if not all the Ivy details, ( incl hook vent), I suspect they come up small, never seen one in the flesh, similar price point as JS,Oi Poloi have a seersucker currently, MARKTT have one in L in navy twill, 2nd hand, £110, probably 40% of the original RRP, be interested to hear if anyone has any experience of Beams+
Thanks all, much appreciated.
I did check out Uniqlo, but this season slightly less ivy-inspired, details wise, and they always come up quite short (and I need at least a longer regular fit). Always a reliable source worth checking out.
Beams+ also looks a little short, and I guess I've always lumped into the 'fancy uniqlo' category, rightly or wrongly.
Might have a good bit of luck with Polo - even spotted a three patch pocket undarted version, too, so that's a definite option.
Suspect unless eBay (or tk maxx) turns up something I might have to bite the bullet with John Simon's, though fear they look slightly short for me. Will have to pop into Chiltern street I reckon!
Incidentally, I saw some vague movement on the j keydge Instagram account so maybe they might be rising from the ashes once more!
Any other suggestions welcome, and thanks again all.
@Colin, careful with the RL sizing, I saw some Seersucker RL jackets in TK's this week, I tried a 40R and it was more like a 36/38, even the 42 wasn't quite right.
I hope to be in cotton Corbin Madras within a week or so. It was bought during bitter weather and has hung in my wardrobe ever since.
Keydge are only doing very small runs of jackets at the moment - for about £350 from what I remember.
made to order in Paris.
have to contact them direct.
Thanks for the tip-off, Runninggeez. Reckon I might give them a miss unless I can try one on in person.
Sid Ford - now that sounds intriguing. Hopefully that means they might start mass producing again! Shall send them an email to find out more.
JS are stocking a run of Vetra jackets that were made up with single rear vents, they might be a bit on the short side for vertiginous gents like Colin. The jackets are very much on the casual end of the spectrum and still look a bit workwear’ish. I thought Keydge always got the balance right and produced an Ivy jacket that looked good with jeans or as part of a fairly smart outfit - ‘from bar to boardroom’ as JFM once said and he would have done it in that order as well.
"Vertiginous", a wonderful word, Woof!
I still wear that grey Herringbone sack I got off you nearly a decade ago - in fact remains a firm favourite of mine.
Going to try the navy linen john Simon's ivy jacket this week.
Going to try the navy linen john Simon's ivy jacket this week.
I'm hoping to do the same myself Colin, ref: Navy Linen Jacket. JS are out of 40 & 42's but I phoned up last week and was told they are getting some more in. If not I may settle for the Vetra.
Thanks for the heads up - will try a different colour for sizing in that case. I fear they may come up a little short....
Was suitably impressed and will be picking up a jacket when they're next in stock. Could even be tempted by a seersucker, too. Very close to a j keydge slack jacket.
Were you in JS today Colin ? Did they actually say when the re-stock will be coming in.
Regarding Beams+, I got the navy seersucker on sale from Mr.Porter a few months back. Its wonderfully unstructured, but sizing is indeed weird. I'm a 40s and the Large fits me well, but I had to get the sleeve taken up as shortish in body, long in sleeves. If I had been the height that the jacket was designed for, it would have been a real bum-freezer.
There are a couple of VERY decent looking Golden Bears, size M just popped up on the aforementioned on another thread Marrkt. Priced £145/£165
Little under a month by the sounds of it, Runninggeez. Herringbone tweeds and corduroy later in the year, and for the summer, a fully navy seersucker (which sounds nice).
I have the full navy seersucker from last year. I can highly recommend these.
The fabric is really lightweight and drapes superbly. I think it's Thomas Mason.
It's also a lovely rich colour and much nicer than a Brooks version I had previously looked at.
The cord jacket from the previous season needs some refining as the chest is quite roomy and with the heavier fabric is a little too boxy.
I would also consider the Vetra option due to the linen/cotton hopsack material. Looks great with an Oxford shirt underneath given the contrasts in the weave of the two garments.
There are a couple of VERY decent looking Golden Bears, size M just popped up on the aforementioned on another thread Marrkt. Priced £145/£165
- I looked at these, size specs would indicate a ' large' rather than 'm', (probably proper old style sizing), sizing looked good for me, but they are both lined, I've got use to unlined for a summer jacket, some interesting items come up on Marrkt,
BTW - goggled J.Keydge and couldn't find any current contact details,