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#1 2010-07-24 10:17:56

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

All right, it's from Elmsy... 

I've just been thinking, re-reading old postings and threads and putting on these bits about 'Ready Steady Go' and Georgie Fame and so on, whether old 'Chetmiles' might have rushed to judgement over the modernist/mod dichotomy.  Ivy isn't - wasn't - about the mod revival or even many aspects of the 'Swinging Sixties', but, in the UK at least, it was there in the mix, perhaps inevitably so, in spite of the Ivy Shop staff playing it cool and playing their Parker records.  Mod now, though - sorry, guys - is cartoon stuff.  'Stylist' was perhaps a better term.  Mod has become stale, static, a parody - oh, and it's only taken about 32 years for this to happen.  I know 'mods' who know nothing about, say, Weejuns or even Tootal.  Yet the car coat I bought this morning is, to my eyes, 'mod'.  I just won't wear it with that in mind. 
Elms said what he did about guys like Georgie Fame; possibly without examining some of the photographs of him looking like a camp twat circa 1967-8.  Oh, I know he got over it, but Elms does love to spin a yarn or two, doesn't he?  Nik Cohn probably makes for a better read - if the bank will loan you the money for a copy of 'Gentlemen'. 
We need to hear more from Chris H about what it was actually like in London before 'Ready Steady Go'.  We need to hear an objective take on the late 1970s and the ongoing Northern scene from Gibson Gardens.  Let's forget Pablo - once more - and hear from our mates.

 

#2 2010-07-24 13:21:49

Alex Roest
Member
From: The Hague, The Netherlands
Posts: 2165

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Modernism in its pure form was about being young and ITK and last but not least being British. The idea, in a nutshell, was to embrace anything 'cool' from the US and the continent as well and give it a British twist. Thing is it wasn't a conscious idea as such, it was obviously an organic thing, as one might expect, that lasted for a few years only. People in general did move on and did it fast...

The media hype supposedly killed it (it would have died anyway of course), so it was pretty much dead by '63 or '64 at the latest although the so-called 'spirit' did live on. Too much was and is being made out of that I think as basically kids just wanted to be modern and look good in the first place. It's all nice and well being inspired by a certain concept that was basically made up with hindsight via the Mods! bible and what have you, but to think one is being special like that is plain ridiculous really.

I'm still interested in image and I love the clothes we discuss here and I'll always be interested in 'deep black sounds' but c'mon...I'm just glad to be an adult with a few childish notions smile

 

#3 2010-08-12 09:01:11

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Bump.

 

#4 2010-08-12 09:04:15

Rip Rig & Panic
Member
Posts: 4697

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Remember, on TV, when John Simons was described as 'an original mod'?

(And didn't Pablo get to do his oral examination on the history of the Brutus shirt?) 

Someone once told us John and Ian Strachan used to piss themselves laughing at...

But that's another story.

 

#5 2022-05-18 07:07:51

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

I have a feeling it lingers on, in one form or another...

 

#6 2022-05-18 07:15:47

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

In actual fact, I'm rather forcing myself to re-read Valerie Wilmer's earnest autobiography 'Mama Said There'd Be Days Like This' (I'm not convinced her mother actually said anything of the kind) just for the meagre 'Modernist' crumbs it offers - i.e. on Ronnie Scott's and The Flamingo.  R&B I can do without, exactly like hard bop, but Georgie Fame gets a dispensation, not least because of the mutual admiration society he formed with Blossom Dearie. 
On the whole, though, I'll be relieved to leave Soho and return to the West Village.

 

#7 2022-05-18 07:59:39

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

It’s all a question of context really, modernism as a movement started in the 1930s when people began to realise that the future could hold more than the past. All rudely interupted by WW2 and took some time to sputter back into life afterwards. The abbreviation to Mod became popular in the 1960s and took on a narrower meaning, centering around certain music, clothes and …. scooters. I always smile when I read that Mod was all over by 1963, maybe in London it was where fashion fads changed like the weather, but in the provinces it was still hanging around in a watered down way until the late 60s/early 70s. Oh and then not long to wait before the first revival.
When they left school and started work (1970 in my case) many blokes wanted transport, cars were out of reach, so to begin with it was either a scooter or a motorbike. What you chose also seemed to dictate what you wore and listened to, so we wore Levis, crew necks and button downs and listened to Motown and soul. There was no deep vision behind it, you were just doing what your mates were doing. I don’t think we called ourselves Mods, or if we did it was a bit tongue in cheek, but some of the old trappings remained like having your name and the town you came from on your flyscreen. There was one guy in my town who was a few years older and went the full hog with a parka and loads of mirrors on his SX200, I guess he was there when it all became popular the first time and just couldn’t let go of it. After about 18 months it was over for us and we moved onto other things, like cars, careers and the beginnings of responsibility.
If you went down the motorbike route it was quite different, they tended to grown their hair long, wear leather jackets and be scruffy while listening to progressive rock. They had very earnest sort of girlfriends who were a bit hippy’ish and had a habit of getting pregnant. Something told me this was not for me, I liked the ones who laughed a lot, wore short skirts and had their tablets sorted out.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#8 2022-05-18 08:27:51

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

I never seem to encounter those ladies nowadays.  Like Valerie Wilmer, they all seem rather earnest - else vague and with a bad habit of repeating the same nonsense as one another (i.e. we all grew fat during 'lockdown' - that's the latest pile of horseshit.  I was putting on weight - as Johnny Simons told me - well before any westerner had heard of wet markets in Wuhan).  But forty and more years ago, yes, the young ladies often seemed friendlier, didn't they?  I remember one very interesting encounter with a young filly (all tweed and pearls) on the bonnet of her mothers Jaguar in a multi-storey car park.

The kiss and grope and tell thread!

 

#9 2022-05-18 08:28:59

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

1978...  As Frankie once sang, it was a very good year...

 

#10 2022-05-19 08:18:27

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 901

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

This is really interesting stuff and you can clearly see a crossover between the current crop of Mods and guys who like Ivy.

But as it has been said elsewhere on here there is an increasingly blurred definition of what is Mod and who are the mods.

For the purpose of this post I referring to guys who like the sixties look and anything Wheeler haircut inspired.

I think the main difference between the two is Mod appears to cover a lot of territory outside of Ivy and is governed by fit.

In both camps you will find items that are unique to their respective followers - patch madras at J Press versus cycling tops at Atom retro.

In my experience Ivy has shown a bit more flexibility - adapting proportions, colours and fit to reflect current fashion trends. The OCBD's I'm currently wearing are a lot more fitted than the ones I wore in the mid Eighties.

I also think Ivy can be a bit more rigid as what's is  actually Ivy and what's not.  For me an Ivy jacket will always have a soft shoulder and most likely be undarted and single breasted.

 

#11 2022-05-19 08:27:01

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Last year, visiting 'Wild' in Nottingham for the first time since its change of ownership, I (slightly after the event) compared what Shaun was wearing with my own clothing.  Shaun was in (if memory serves me well) a navy Smedley polo neck, dark Levis and black Weejuns.  I was wearing a 1960s Burberrys' fly-fronted raincoat, Brooks Brothers blue and white university stripe button-down, marl v-neck lambswool sweater, medium blue (not navy) cords, 'unremarkable socks' and Florsheim PTBs.  There was perhaps a slight frisson of recognition on either side and a conversation developed about John Simons and 2 Russell Street. 
The next time I saw Shaun he was wearing much the same clothing but with the addition of a baker boy cap and a kind of suede Levi jacket.
To my eyes, he looked more 'Mod' than 'Ivy League'.  And yet...  and yet...

 

#12 2022-05-19 08:32:46

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

(The shop does not stock - on the whole - what either of us was wearing, being given over more to Carhartt-type work wear, Ban-Lon, some Pendleton and Fred Perry and a fair number of darted jackets - no sacks that I saw.  Lots of denim, including Levis.  Roamers desert boots.  A lot of generic and not terribly interesting 'Americana'.  But their average punter was the same years ago as they are now: students and skaters.  But they once had odds and ends of London Fog, Woolrich, even Paul Stuart.  And pea coats).

 

#13 2022-05-19 08:42:16

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 901

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Wasn't Carhartt available at Russell Street

 

#14 2022-05-19 09:16:47

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

I believe JS may have been the first to recognise its potential as part of the overall Ivy look.

 

#15 2022-05-19 09:21:34

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

It's rather interesting: this morning I was asked by my wife to talk to the young Ukrainian girl my elder daughter now has living with her about 'vintage' clothing.  The first name that surfaced was Carhartt (in a text message from said daughter).  Tells me something.  Also the fact that, according to the kid at the local 'vintage' store, he can shift plenty of it locally, whereas Filson tends to go to Japan.

 

#16 2022-05-19 09:26:28

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

I've never thought of wearing Carhartt, though I did once wear Filson, which was expensive on Ebay years ago and, I think, continues to be so.  I can't see why.

 

#17 2022-05-19 09:28:30

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

A Filson shirt on at the moment.
Made in El Salvador.
'Classic/Iconic Americana'.
Figures.

 

#18 2022-07-05 08:15:02

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

A poster on DW name-checked Nik Cohn.  One of his books, like the Frank Norman study of Soho, has become a genuine rarity; possibly more so.  Like the DW poster, I'd be fascinated to read this.  I expect there are photographs, quite likely in black and white.  Might it complement 'Revolt Into Style'?  (Melly, not Jason Jules).

 

#19 2022-07-05 14:57:32

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 901

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

AFS,
Are you familiar with Peter York's mid Eighties book Modern Times.Highly recommended.
I know 2RS has also mentioned it.
It's a great snapshot of what was happening at the time. It clearly shows how influential the Eighties were.

 

#20 2022-07-06 00:45:47

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

Alvey, I'm not sure.  I remember reading a book of York's in which he took pot shots at graphic designers, ladies of a certain age wearing yellow dungarees and Kickers, chaps in Fairisle vests etc.  Perhaps that's the one.  Quite enjoyable.

 

#21 2022-07-06 07:27:10

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: 'Touched By The Hand of Mod'...

A Lacoste shirt for sale on Ebay: very reasonably priced as it happens: £6 - Made In France (so it says).  'Very Mod' says the seller.  But is it?  What precisely does he mean by that?  In fact, does he mean anything at all? 
Many of you will remember what the lovely Twiggy had to say about 60s Mods in Gorman's book.  They were changing their look in the twinkling of an eye - much as Ray Davies sang in 'Dedicated Follower'. 
Revivalist Mods I knew wore the same old crap for months on end: pork pie hat, Fred Perry shirt, jeans, Clarks' or Hush Puppies.
Where might Lacoste come into all this?
Mods?  What Mods?

 

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