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#26 2022-05-20 03:53:18

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 781

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

I have an appointment (finally) at the passport office in London in around 10 days time, so I'll make a visit to Uniqlo in Regent St looking for some cheap T's for beachwear, the 15 yr old Gap ones are (even for me) too knackered to wear now,
Yesterday a Lands End catalogue arrived, having a flick through it,  some reasonable looking long sleeve shirts, collar roll looked good ( as Alvey mentioned), but they had some sort of tabs on them to button up when the sleeves are rolled up, deal breaker for me,
Robbie - were they the stone/ off-white sta press in '69 ? I had them, they washed up very well, mine were in the bath with stain remover most Sunday mornings to get the beer & rum stains out of them !

 

#27 2022-05-20 04:09:15

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Those tabs, Stax...  I know exactly what you mean only I found them on a short-sleeve Aertex Madras.  Simply stupid so I set the shirt aside for a charity shop.

 

#28 2022-05-20 04:14:34

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

In retrospect, I do think 'affluent' is a slightly unfortunate word: 'The Affluent Society': instantly conjuring up images of Ron and Ethel with their new Robin Reliant parked outside the bungalow, tea trolley at the ready, just waiting to watch 'The Black And White Minstrel Show'.  How they must have adored Supermac in '59.  'You've never had it so good, Ron'.  'What do you mean?' mutters Ron, casting a sidelong glance at Ethel.  'I've never had it at all since the night I presented her with a box of Black Magic while we were watching 'Brigadoon'...'

 

#29 2022-05-20 04:35:06

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

‘I'll second Alvey's recommendation on the LL seersucker shirt.’

Agreed. I have a blue stripe and a green stripe from previous years.

LL also offer nice supima cotton polos in long sleeve tailored fit. Not particularly Ivy but good quality.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#30 2022-05-20 04:41:56

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Stax- Yes the stone coloured sta-prest. Rum stains? As a teenager drinking 'rum and black' seemed a rite of passage. I was so sick once it took me thirty years before I could face drinking rum again. I had a bottle in my pocket (present from a friend from the west indies) celebrating the millennium in London.

I hate those tabs on the shirt sleeves


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#31 2022-05-20 04:59:41

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

‘I'll second Alvey's recommendation on the LL seersucker shirt.’

'Agreed. I have a blue stripe and a green stripe from previous years.

LL also offer nice supima cotton polos in long sleeve tailored fit. Not particularly Ivy but good quality.'

Except that I managed to confuse the issue by typing 'LL' instead of 'LE'

 

#32 2022-05-20 05:03:36

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

I did mean Lands End. I assume LL means locker loop. There is also a button, but no flap, on the breast pocket.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#33 2022-05-20 05:50:55

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Ha! Yes I too meant Lands End. As opposed to LL Bean as I might have implied.

Sta press I think are okay for under twenties. Mind you, nobody's ever managed to make them look half decent even in ads. On an older chap, they tend to be paired with a burgundy harrington and a pork pie hat don't they?

I would hope that if anyone can do a good job of it Levi would.

Another vote against those sleeve tabs

 

#34 2022-05-20 07:56:40

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 781

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

On an older chap, they tend to be paired with a burgundy harrington and a pork pie hat don't they?

Spendthrift you've reminded me of a guy I spotted in the crowd coming away from football a few weeks ago, not sure how old he was as I didn't get a good look, but he wore a harrington, and a hat ( not sure if it was a pp ), fairly normal , but what I found interesting was he wore ' tailored' trousers which finished above his shoes, a pair of those chunky tassled loafers that (if memory serves me), skinhead types wore around '70, possibly a check shirt (Brutus ?), and what for me finished the skinhead look was his long well trimmed sideburns, certainly not a style I'd have worn even back in the day but I had to admire how ' authentic' his look was,

 

#35 2022-05-20 11:11:41

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Stax - There’s a great many of that type still. Especially on the scooter and ska scenes. They tend to be guys re-living their Madness/2Tone youth. And there are a lot of shops serving up that kind of clobber. Especially online.

Generally the quality of the gear isn’t very high. And I’m not sure it’s a look that suits middle aged men. Although I have to careful saying that, as with a few tweaks, it’s a look that I can sail quite close to some days. And I do love most of the music that goes with it.

 

#36 2022-05-20 11:51:17

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

This is where, I think, many of us part company and divisions arise.  This is mostly in England, although the forum did (years ago) have posters elsewhere (including the USA) where a more 'peanut' type look was favoured (pork pie hats perhaps, airwair, Fred Perry etc.).  It's only marginally 'Ivy League' and nowhere near 'Prep' or 'Trad'.  But, having said that, the chatter and banter often reached a high level, such as, 'Is there such a creature as a 'sussed skinhead'?' (horrible phrase, horrible notion - the answer was a firm 'no').  But Frosty did the forum something of a disservice by tempting in Mods and others who later jumped ship.  Some of them are now to be found elsewhere on the Internet: probably eyeing and buying those Paul Weller jumpers.

 

#37 2022-05-20 12:21:01

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

To each their own I suppose.

I do remember, years ago probably, a skinhead guy kept posting in Ivy Style For Today. All burgundy sta press and Fred Perry. They gave him a very hard time but there was just no reason for him to be there. God knows how he found his way to it?

To the casual observer, elements of Ivy/suede/mod/skin must all look very similar, especially as the years pass and the hair thins.

No doubt there’s been a lot of jumping into other ships over the years. Or hopefully evolving of one’s own tastes. But to try and lump them all together under one umbrella is either very naive or lazy. Especially if you actually consider yourself to be in any of the camps.

 

#38 2022-05-20 12:25:58

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Burgundy/Claret/Plumb/Maroon/wine are colours that have always appealed to me. If the Harrington in Burgundy was more exclusive I would like to own one but they seem to be the colour of choice for many 'lads'. (Particularly over West Ham). Jump the Gun shop in Brighton must be doing a good trade in them. At least they are made in UK.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#39 2022-05-20 12:52:44

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

I think there’s always been an element of West Ham fans that have also been fairly fanatic harrington and Fred Perry wearers. So I can see the connection there.

Jump The Gun do have a very good reputation, and as you say Robbie, much of it is MiE. By god it’s slimmer than slim cuts though.

 

#40 2022-05-21 00:29:25

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

'Talk Ivy', even when I first became involved in around 2008, was never a place for the purist.  I doubt if such a place exists.  Besides, it was always said that the really cool chaps were aloof and uninvolved with online life: quite possibly true then if not so much now. 
The UK/US bickering was always of concern to me, particularly as, although a mere Englishman, my fascination with American cultural strands and strains was developed early and remains unabated.  I still tote my Harvard key-ring with great pride. 
There were once a large number of interesting American posters on here.  Horace now posts infrequently.  Patrick will sometimes pop up, but I guess his new editorial duties keep him busy. 
The 'skinhead'/yoof culture side of it I always found questionable and tedious.  Nothing whatever to do with 'Ivy League' - or, if you prefer, Ivy League. 
I didn't know it as such when I first began taking an interest in Brooks Brothers at the end of the 70s.  I simply wanted to dress like an American.
And still do.

 

#41 2022-05-21 03:10:57

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Crompton goes ‘cheap’.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/05/can-you-look-good-in-cheap-clothes.html

I would point out, based on his photos, a pair of socks does not cost a fortune. Crompton always looks the same though, whatever he wears.

Maybe AFS could take him on a tour of Derbyshire’s best charity shops. Then again, you don’t want the wrong sorts turning up on your doorstep.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#42 2022-05-21 03:22:11

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

'Mattia' looks like shit: that ragged hem for instance.  I noted that happening on a pair of much-treasured Levis chinos I'd picked up for a fiver in the local Oxfam shop before 'vintage' appeared on their radar.  They got the heave-ho. 
'Cheap clothes'.  The burning question is, were they cheap to begin with, not how much does a worthy cause imagine they can charge the interested or semi-interested punter?  I bought a very decent, English made Aquascutum raincoat for £15 fairly recently.  Some paperwork to do with a local solicitor was still in the right-hand pocket.  Then there was the Paul Stuart raincoat I bought on Ebay for £1.99 back in 2007 or 2008.  Doubtless expensive when new.
Good socks are between £10 and £25 a pair.  Sometimes - as happened last year - a shop like Zebra in Chesterfield will sell smaller sizes of Falke, Burlington and Pantherella at a fiver a time.  I stocked up, but some are of inferior quality.  M&S often turn out to be longer-lasting.

 

#43 2022-05-21 03:25:09

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Mattia is definitely not a great role model.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#44 2022-05-21 03:30:19

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

The average charity shop is, needless to say, packed to the rafters with cheap clothing no-one but a tramp would willingly wear.  You can imagine my surprise when, in various unpromising locations, Italian-made shirts that turn up online at fancy prices turn up.  That's just one example.
The problem with charity shops is you have to wander in and out of at least six or eight before anything even vaguely interesting reveals itself.  There is much swearing, gnashing of teeth etc. along the way, especially as many of these shops are staffed by lost souls, well-meaning imbeciles, recently widowed ladies looking for a means of passing the time and teenage girls who have not yet learned to make eye contact.

 

#45 2022-05-21 03:36:50

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Back in the 70s I recall only Oxfam, which was like a jumble sale in those days.  Living in Salford between 1981 and 1983 I don't even remember an Oxfam shop in Manchester.  I would certainly have gone in to look for cheap paperbacks if not clothes. 
The girlie running the local Oxfam shop seems to regard potential customers as something of a nuisance, much like the arty-farty young book-repairers in a secondhand bookshop in Buxton.  You could almost hear them sigh with anguish when having to do something as mundane as actually deal with Joe Public.

 

#46 2022-05-21 04:17:36

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Do you still get 'professional sellings' scouring charity shops for underpriced bargains?


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#47 2022-05-21 07:07:30

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

Young maidens and freshly widowed ladies in charity shops quiver and cast their eyes down at the approach of AFS, they know that customer/staff relations are important to him.

You can still turn up bargains in charity shops but of course, thanks to the internet, there are far more people who are aware of things that might be sought after or collectible. Good stuff doesn’t hang about for long, be it clothes, records or household objects.I suppose if you had the time and knowledge you could make a bit of money, but it’s a pretty miserable pastime, a bit like the people you used to see on the street in East Berlin after the wall came down, sitting there all day in the hope of selling an old brass tap.  My mate knows a lot about antiques and is an avid frequenter of car boot sales.  According to him, he’s had a few good scores over the years where he’s spotted an item that’s worth several hundred quid on sale for a pittance. He then takes a perverse delight in maintaining a poker face while he beats them down from two quid to 50p. He says this doesn’t happen so much now and that the rarities don’t come up as much as they used to. I couldn’t be bothered with it all myself.

I’ve bought a couple of bits off the Oxfam website and I think a lot of their good donations go on there now, priced accordingly. But I’m sure plenty still slips through the net.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#48 2022-05-21 07:50:15

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

I think there was a little phase, when eBay really kicked off, when some people saw £ notes and thought they could make money from buying from charity and flipping it on there. To make decent cash you’d have to do it on an industrial scale though. And the charities themselves caught on to it pretty quickly.

I would imagine that if there was a ‘vintage’ shop in town they’d be scouring the charities and there’d be slim pickings left for the rest of us.

I’ve had some very good stuff. Most recently a pair of barely worn Church brogues for £25. Loads of RL and Gant. Not the time of year, but when the cooler weather comes back I’ll be checking the Oxfam site for something similar to JS’s modernist overcoat. It’ll probably end up being Dunn & Co, but one will turn up!

Funnily enough, for me it’s not a money thing. I think there’s some psychological wiring that makes you love or hate some types of shopping. I’ve often said I’ve never been in J Simons. But friendly as I’m sure they are, I really struggle to enjoy that type of shop, whether they’re selling clothes, lampshades or cakes, I just don’t enjoy that one on one experience. So AFS’s motley crew of British Heart Foundation staff suit me down to the ground.

 

#49 2022-05-21 15:55:40

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4187

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

‘a pretty miserable pastime’ is also my view of scouring charity shops and TK Maxx. I mostly have enough ‘stuff’ and don’t enjoy browsing on the off chance of spotting something I may like.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#50 2022-05-22 01:49:43

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: On Looking 'Affluent'

One does little 'scouring'.  It is 'a pretty miserable pastime'.  I tend to focus on places with a decent choice of books and CDs nowadays.  A dull weather activity only.  From now on it'll be plant nurseries and, Pevsner to hand, the local churches and country houses.  Variety, after all, is the spice of life.
To Wollaton yesterday, to see the T.Rex skeleton on loan from the Americans.  Distinctly underwhelming and highly 'interactive'.  Pretty much a waste of £40 plus.  Two adults plus 'chav in the making' five year old grandson.
I was more taken with George the Gorilla.  For saying he was shipped over from Paris in 1878 and has been standing around in Nottingham since 1926 his wedding tackle looked to be in fine shape.

 

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