Somnambulant at 5am, in that state where random fragments of thoughts just float across from nowhere, I remembered Sidewinder's (ex of this parish) comments that he was inspired to explore American clothing after watching The Young Philadelphians (1959). So I did what any self-respecting Ivyist did and checked out the film again. And I do declare the boy was on to something - it might just be the most spectacular example of natural shoulderness on celluloid. Newman, exhibiting such ridiculous levels of handsomeness to make any man recoil from the female touch, dons high-level peak boom years tailoring in a range of tweeds and fabrics. The cut is high 3 button and long, they're sack jackets, but not boxy and shapeless, and they remind you that the Ivy jacket really does come in subtle variations. Mr Button Down is very visible of course, but what PN really rocks is the tab collar, worn with repp ties. It's joyful stuff and I recommend it to all.
Ah, the tab collar. Something I'm willing to work with, under certain circumstances. I examined a Gap shirt yesterday (in a charity shop) that was a very bad example of a button-down, the fabric lying flat as a pancake, no pretence of a roll.
The young Paul Newman was very beautiful and I chose my last user name 'A Fine Sadness' as an obscure nod to PN and his lovely wife. It probably wasn't obvious to everyone (or, perhaps, anyone).
Now I must take a look at that movie.
I have a chambray tab which I wear when the mirror is being kind to me. Somehow it seems doable these days where once it certainly wasn't. Wearing a tab in the 80s marked you out as some form of deviant, or at least it made me feel that way!
Collars are difficult - and difficult to get right, are they not? Even some of my Brooks shirts don't seem to be quite the ticket (though I endure).