TRS:
'We were the only people in the rather shabby room. It had only one angle - that of the college roots. Not a smidgen on anything else. Nothing on modern jazz, nothing on the boom between 55-65, nothing on Japan, or the wider cultural influences of the style. It was very narrow, exclusively American, largely 1920s to 1940s, very white, very elitist and very fucking boring. Brooks Brothers, the originators of the language and silhouette of the Ivy Look, were virtually invisible. It was Dicky's show, lots of Press, all Ivy colleges and nothing else.'
Skipper:
'It's so boring how the same nonsense is being claimed here over and over again. This whole business with jazz and the democratization of Ivy is a very strange historical distortion, which is mainly cultivated in Great Britain. There, however, the reference to Ivy comes from the subculture area and thus had its own origin.
Yes, there was a period when Ivy was mainstream marketed in the US. That doesn't change the fact that Ivy has never been inclusive, and never will be. On the contrary, it has always been elitist and always will be.
This has to do with the fact that it is not just a matter of clothing but of a lifestyle that is based on certain values and cannot be represented without a certain income. Ivy is (or was) the dress style of a very specific socioeconomic group. Of course, anyone can live by the values of this group, dress accordingly, and work towards achieving social status.'
Also Skipper:
'I'm not suggesting that he has no idea about the subject. I know he knows his stuff well. However, he is highly biased and sells his personal views as facts, mixing it with politics and class warfare in a very ideological way. In addition, he immediately becomes offensive when someone contradicts him. Overall not the level I'm used to in discussions.
I respect the British interpretation of the issue. However, it only illuminates a tiny part and enriches it with things that originally had nothing to do with it. Anyone who claims that only this interpretation is valid and that all others can be neglected is, as I have already mentioned, falsifying history.'
Which specific parts of TRS's above post are falsifying history?
Welcome back, Yuca. Your trenchant views have been missed.
‘Which specific parts of TRS's above post are falsifying history?’
The second sentence concerns itself with the result or aftermath of an established style. While not ‘falsifying’ it is looking at a much bigger picture. One that others may have no interest in.
Regarding the Little Blue Book, so elegantly condescended by AFS, I feel obliged to point out that it is full of America. Tons of it. America is the star of this particular show. American clothes, American people, American music. It's 80% America, 10% UK, 5% Italy, 5% Japan. It is titled as a 'Guide To Traditional American Clothing'. What else do you want? The stars and stripes on the cover? I don't see where history is re-written. As much as anything it's a taster of the magic of a period of time in America, a visual guide, an amuse bouche. It is positive and joyful, full of beautiful people in beautiful clothes. I have never understood why a few nutty Americans got so hot under the collar about it.
Last edited by Tworussellstreet (2022-06-01 11:47:43)
'The second sentence concerns itself with the result or aftermath of an established style. While not ‘falsifying’ it is looking at a much bigger picture. One that others may have no interest in.'
There are lots of things that I have no interest in. I don't accuse those who do have an interest in them of falsifying history.
I did make a major claim for it on a previous thread, to the effect that it had superseded 'Take Ivy'. The follow-up book was, of course, lavish.
Falsifying history is the easiest thing in the world, providing one has a receptive audience. It's a game politicians play with consummate skill, knowing as they do that the average man does not know his arse from a hole in the ground. Stalin and his people played the game superbly and was imitated by Hitler. Boris Johnson is probably too much of an upper class twit to do it convincingly.
‘There are lots of things that I have no interest in. I don't accuse those who do have an interest in them of falsifying history.’
Others are interested in the essential style - not what happened afterwards. Maybe they would consider that ‘falsifying’.
Either way, there are many on forums who do consider it exclusive, American, white and upper class.
One says this. One says that. I am not the mediator. Strong views on both sides.
'Exclusive, American, white and upper class'. KingstonIan is undoubtedly correct in what he says here but even someone as pig-headed as I can see to what extent those on 'other forums' are stupidly simplifying The Look, turning into some kind of online 'Trad' construct. Those particular Americans remind me of our Sloane Rangers, our Hoorays, the types that pissed off Ian Strachan and John Lally in Richmond. The Timberland/rugger-bugger-'prep' brigade. I've known quite a few like 'em myself.
The umbrella name is 'shits'.
I'm just amazed at what passes for ivy style, amongst our American cousins, on Facebook. It seems that almost anything goes, these days
'Others are interested in the essential style - not what happened afterwards. Maybe they would consider that ‘falsifying’.'
The 1950s and 196os were 'afterwards'? I don't think they were.
As an American, most of the people I know here who have any affinity for ivy would see things closer to a Jim or TRS viewpoint than the Ivy Style take on it. The discovery of the clothes and the associations with other cultural and art/music/cinema influences. The old family photos where the clothing stands out. Take Ivy being of interest for the clothing and photography. The people in my family that wore Ivy, in the 60's, were mechanics, blue collar workers, midwestern students, who had as little in common with the elites or wannabe elites as the Watts rebels did, but the clothing still made sense for them and looked good on them. The Miyuki-Zoku gents capture the imagination and just plain look snappier than much of what is probably "true US ivy" nowadays.
Not to say there aren't myriads of those who do adhere more to the Ivy Style ethos, but trying to deny the legitimacy of any of the British takes, is ridiculous.
Why were Ivy Leaguers allowed to wear denim in the 1970's and stretch pants or cargo shorts now? Not particularly exclusive. How exclusive is it when anyone in a city of 10,000 people in Texas or Nebraska in the 1960's could easily obtain it on a working man's wages?
On the other hand, I remember billax's blog and his own highly informed take that was based on actually living it, and his photos demonstrating a flair for incorporating the clothes into visually pleasing outfits. A contrast to a bunch of photos of guys in baggy dockers and blazers.
A weird debate because nearly all sides have a point.
Great post thanks Slimm, I used to enjoy Billax’s posts and his meticulously staged photos, is he still active anywhere on the web?
Thanks Woof. I'm not sure, I recall some internet weirdness caused him to shut it down.
Yes, slimmm67 raises some interesting points there, doesn't he?
I can remember seeing, many years ago, 'Kiss Me Deadly' with Ralph Meeker (circa 1955?). I think some of the characters - blue collar-ish - were wearing Lacoste polo shirts: a touch aspirational if you like.
"A weird debate because nearly all sides have a point."
That's the way it is and that's why I find it so strange that some people here act as if their view of things is the only truth.
The fact that you haven't responded to my post suggests that, in this instance, you're unable to justify your previous comments.
"The fact that you haven't responded to my post suggests that, in this instance, you're unable to justify your previous comments."
The fact that you have written two weird comments suggests that, in this instance, you're unwilling or unable to understand my previous posts where all your questions have already been answered.
You haven't answered anything. TRs made a seemingly innocuous, objective appraisal of the exhibit and you responded by accusing him of falsifying history. How the hell did you come to that conclusion? Surely if that were the case, it would be easy to justify.
Last edited by Yuca (2022-06-03 09:20:40)
There's something online about Hugh Hefner 'plucking' Janet Pilgrim - which I misread completely.
Seriously, part of me wishes I'd not drawn attention to Richard Press and his 'video walk-through'. But I had no way of knowing that TRS was, at the time, observing the proceedings through jaded, hypercritical eyes. I mean, I simply enjoyed it for what it was, in an idle moment. Nothing more or less.
Wasn't TRS commenting on the exhibit itself and not the vid in question?
I think he was commenting on Richard Press's alleged/apparent lack of balance/perspective.
'I think he was commenting on Richard Press's alleged/apparent lack of balance/perspective.'
I copied TRS's quote earlier. It's clear his criticisms are specifically of the content of the exhibition - down to Mr Press I believe, but that certainly doesn't mean there's anything wrong with the rest of Mr Press's output. Indeed he's written plenty of wonderful things that I've enjoyed reading.
Incidentally, even Chens used to write frequently about the jazz ivy connection. It's nothing necessarily to do with personal music tastes, it's just covering all significant aspects of the topic in question.
Last edited by Yuca (2022-06-03 10:17:07)
Is this what’s called a Brouhaha?