https://www.bbc.co.uk/programmes/b0bvg6r4
Documentary about the Northampton shoe industry, available on iPlayer, probably only if you are in the U.K.
Here's the blurb:
In this episode, our makers explore how Northampton became the shoe capital of Britain. From drag queens and kings to squaddies and style fans, they have all sported a pair of Northampton's finest. The town has dominated the world in shoemaking for centuries, exporting fancy footwear globally. Presenter Steph McGovern takes the makers through the ages, guided by master shoemaker Scott McKee. He has handmade shoes for dozens of high profile clients including Prince Charles and Daniel Craig.
Our makers start by recreating a 13th-century turn shoe. It is a shoe that set Northampton's shoemakers on a path to prosperity. Leatherworker Jason has never made shoes before and he is really looking forward to getting stuck in. The makers have to cut out the turn shoe sole and upper. But cutting out leather to precise measurements is harder than it looks. Charlton's work fails Scott's quality control inspection, so he has to start again from scratch. Next, they have to sew the two parts together using a boar bristle as a needle. But the bristle is brittle and Katie keeps breaking hers, and Claire declares her shoe is the worst thing she has ever made. Jason takes ages making his shoe - he is a complete perfectionist. Once finished, they all model their new medieval creations for Steph.
In the Victorian era, business is booming. Our makers become part of the production line for the heeled Oxford shoe. Rather than one person making the whole shoe, each worker specialises in a particular part of the process. After completing the fiddly 'clicking' phase where they have to cut out six different pieces of the shoe from leather, Claire has a go on the closing machine. Claire struggled with hand-sewing in the last make, but is much more at home using this Victorian invention powered by a foot pedal. Charlton is set to work shaping the shoe using a last, a foot-shaped mould used by shoemakers. He observes that very strong fingers are needed to pull it tight. The makers are exhausted: the process requires an enormous amount of concentration.
Next, they are making a WWII marching boot that kitted out the British army. Speed is of the essence and our makers will have to move quickly to meet the wartime demand using the latest technology. They discover one of the greatest inventions that would transform the Northampton shoe industry - the Goodyear welting machine. Claire now uses an electric sewing machine to connect the panels of the upper, and lasting is mechanised too. The makers observe it is so much quicker than when they made a turn shoe in medieval times.
But the makers discover that some of the process is still done by hand. Katie and Jason fill the bottom of the shoe with crushed cork before the sole is applied. If they are too slow, the cork will dry out completely. Katie has a great appreciation for the immense speed that shoe makers had to work at to power the British war machine. Finally in the 21st century, our makers work on modern leather brogue boots at Tricker's, a company that have been based in Northampton for the past 180 years. Today, Tricker's shoes are available in 43 countries and one of their biggest customers is Japan. The makers are surprised to learn that at least 87 different people take six weeks to make a single pair of Tricker's boots. For these intricately crafted shoes the finishing stage is key. Charlton has to fill in 150 individual holes in the brogue. Claire and Katie dye the outside edge of the sole and Jason uses an open flame to burn off any tiny pieces of cotton remaining on the leather. Scott declares their final product is absolutely perfect.
Thanks for the heads up on this Woof, I watched it last night on catch up! Great to see the Trickers factory still using the same techniques to date.
Great viewing, Woof. Bought my first pair of C&Js in October, and they're really something else!
I am going to buy a pair of black grain derby shoes with Danite sole from a 100% Northampton maker this year. C&J currently looks the best option. Other thoughts welcome.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2019-02-23 01:53:01)
One of my regrets is not picking up a beautiful pair of Trickers in the window of their store. Beautiful brown pebble grain. Can't remember the sole. Maybe commando -- half leather and half vibram or some such.
Massachusetts and Maine (not to mention other states) made an incredible amount of shoes well into the 20th-c. I think until the 70's/80's. Really high end stuff, but mainly middle of the road. Like the Bass Weejuns and whatnot.
Are British shoos (currently) at all protected by EU tariffs? What degree of Continental stuff is getting in to UK to displace Brit shoes? After Brexit, I can imagine this will change. (Not to mention the tariff may not have much affect on tennis shoes/trainers).
Picking up here on TRSs comments on Trickers - his endorsement in fact - this thread seems worth bumping.
There used to be a very well informed and helpful chap in the Trickers factory shop. He has retired now. He said overseas sales kept them in business.
I have three pairs of Trickers - a cordovan plain toe (Robert Tramper), an Adelaide(Belgrave) with a hard wearing channeled sole and a split toe (Abingdon) in brown museum calf - an inexpensive alternative to the Edward Green Dover without hoopla about stitching the apron with a needle made from a boar bristle.
All bought at great prices from the factory shop. It’s not far from Derbyshire and not a bad day out. No well shod citizens in evidence, but a great shoe museum plus Church’s by the rail station, Crockett and Jones factory shop at weekends and now Edward Green factory shop.
My former wife, the odious Selina, lives in the town: sufficient reason for me to avoid the place.
Ian Nairn visited not long before a nice, unpretentious arcade was about to be demolished.
I visited Northampton a few times when I lived in Leicester briefly, four or so years ago. The C&J factory shop was always interesting - never found anything I’d buy but I loved having to walk through the factory to get to it. I did get my suede chukkas from the Church’s factory shop however. The absolute highlight was a guided tour of the Cheaney factory - I happened to turn up at the right moment and managed to tack myself onto one being given to some wealthy American visitors.
C&J factory shop was just inside the front door when I visited, no walk through the factory. I did not buy anything though. Pediwear used to price match and the trick was to get the price from a Kuala Lumpur shoe shop who routinely sold C & J at knockdown prices. Then convert ringgits to sterling. C & J soon stopped supplying them.
I never went to factories outside the town itself, so no Cheaney.
I preferred Cheaney, around fifteen or so years ago, to C&J. But I wound up selling them on Ebay to some London knob who insisted on e-mailing me every five minutes to see if I'd stuck them in the post. I sold a pair of C&J to a Swede. Pre-PayPal, using IBT, it was like pulling teeth without anaesthetic.
Shooey may care to chip in on this one.
Went to Uni there (well pre - Nene College of art and design back then).
Anyway, I lived 2 streets from C&J and a 10 minute walk to Trickers, fortunately for me, my grant and bank balance I didn’t know so never went! Obviously I have since had the fortune to visit many of the factories for the Northampton and the Ivy League exhibit, art directing multiple style and reportage shoots.
My first pair of 'American brogues' was bought from Blackman's in Brick Lane back in 1969. They were ,in fact, made in Northampton, England. Perhaps the best pair of shoes I have ever owned.
I've come fall circle and the last pair of 'American brogues' that I have bought were Alfred Sargent, made in Northampton.
I'm a fan of Northampton shoes.
Church’s are owned by Prada now. I managed to get the last pair of cordovan PTB’s in my size from the factory shop after the takeover.
I've recently been wearing brogues a lot. The weather's suited heavier shoes with leather soles.
MiE Loake Royals are great. I'd allowed them to languish unloved and unworn for a good few years but they've bounced back and softened up just enough perfectly.
The Church's brogues I picked up lately are just right in every way possible. In a different league than any of my other shoes. Maybe to any clothing I own. I've dated them to just after Prada took over, but before their influence was allowed to bite.
Bought Trickers recently. Very plain, square shoe: tan. S/H so very bedded in. I intend smartening myself up a bit, investing in some new ties; doing the 'Square Dance'. I've become very fond of my Jarman cordovan brogues over the years. I bought them when my younger daughter was still at primary school. She's knocking twenty six now and with an interesting style of her own: Biba, Burberrys', berets.
If you want to be on trend get yourself some Crocs. Whilst making our way home on the Tube the other night, after yet another evening of frivolity, we sat amongst a group of W Indian boys and girls who were all Croc’ed up. They were wearing a variety of colours, but the common theme was personalising them with pin badges so you get an effect like a fridge door covered in magnets.
Despite Crocs being one of the most loathsome shoes ever devised, I found it heartening to see young people adopting a hot trend and going for something different, a healthy sign. It’s one trend I won’t be picking up on though.
https://urbjournal.com/you-need-to-get-youself-some-crocs/
I think Diane Keaton is seen wearing Crocs in 'Annie Hall'. 1977? They look especially beastly on men. I saw, ten or so years ago, a complete idiot wearing a purple pair. With socks. My younger daughter once did the little badge thing. They used to turn up in the garden.
Hoped we'd seen the last of them.
Silver shoes on Ebay. So if you should want to look like a Cyberman...
I didn’t think anything could beat crocs in the foot fashion crime department. Right up until the recent rise of sliders with white socks. Usually paired with cuffed trackies hitched up somewhere around mid calf.
Perhaps crocs are now seen as the flashier alternative?
Like Woof though, I do find it heartening that even if I don’t get it, at least there’s something going on
I have to confess that in the last week I did wear a pair of crocs on a couple of occasions. I was working on my Mother in Law's farm and I borrowed her crocs (size 4 and I'm a 10) to stagger to the outside dunny.
I sometimes wear Salomon slides as well on my way to swim in the lake.
I think I get away with it because we are in the middle of nowhere and no one saw me. Ha!
I've hated Crocs since they came out but they do have their uses. Not in an urban environment, however.
I used to have a rather posh GP called Sophie. I rather fancied getting her legs up. She confided in me that she wore Crocs. Made no difference, I still wanted to get her legs up.