It's overstated isn't it, this thing about the importance of the roll on a button-down collar? The Ivy shirts I have from the 50s and 60s have really quite small button-down collars; they are beautifully shaped, soft and unlined but they do not really roll, there is instead just a minor kink so they don't lie flat against the rest of the shirt. And I think this was the norm. Even the classic, original Brooks collar, which did roll more than most, really acquired its beauty and fame due more to its softness of construction and quality of materials than the collar roll. It's another example of the distortions of time, the establishment of new orthodoxies of thinking that eliminate the complexities of the past. I partly blame the vulgarisation of the look in the mid to late 60s when British makers like Brutus and Jaytex just exaggerated everything to the point of parody. Old Ivy was really pretty subtle stuff.
^ A very worthwhile discussion point.
Now being discussed on DW
https://www.dressedwell.net/threads/collar-roll.10209/#post-297954
Last edited by Sammy Ambrose (2022-07-07 03:15:03)
I'd agree with TRS, I have a couple of NOS from O'Connell's bought about 10 years ago that were probably made in the '80's and the collars are less than 3", and a vintage (late 60's I reckon ), h/s batik print I bought from Lloyd Johnson that has a very small collar, I actually wear it un-buttoned and it works well as a camp collar style, a friend of mine has stowed away somewhere 1 or 2 shirts he bought from the IS '69-70, I've asked him a few times to dig them out just so I can inspect the details, I think, ( but could be corrected I'm sure), that in the '60's there was ' grown up' Ivy shirts,(with longer collars , to take a tie ?), and ' teenager' Ivy shirts ( for casual wear ?), such as the ' Career Club' shirts I use to buy from the IS, can't remember them having particularly long collars, in the '68-'70 period you could always identify the ' oiks' from the large collars on the awful Brutus shirts, as well as the brash check patterns and very short sleeves, ( not h/s's like us superior beings had on our USA originals !), Ben Shermans sat somewhere between USA originals and Brutus, Over to you RobbieB ........
2RS,
I have a few Mercers and I know you're a fan too.
I like the collar roll on them but the one thing I hadn't accounted for was the position of the second button (running from the top of the placket). I feel it's slightly too low and as a consequence the roll collapses.
My understanding is that these are a reproduction of a classic sixties Brooks shirt. Is that right and have you encountered the same problem?
I dislike the word 'myth'. 'Orthodoxy' I'll accept. But the button-down shirt is now virtually meaningless. The old guy who came to give me a quote for repairing the roof wore a check button-down - as work wear.
Frankly, I still like a flowing roll on my collars (although, recently, they've been hidden behind a crew neck).
It's stiffness I find difficulty in dealing with; lazy design.
I don't think the roll on a Mercer shirt is anything to write home about. Nor Troy Guild. In fact, USA-made Baggies aren't bad in this respect.
I outed a couple of shirts recently: one Duck Head, the other Bill's. USA-made but simply boring.
Oh - as a matter of interest, was Johnny Simons following tradition when designing his own-name Madras shirts? They have a slightly skimpy collar; perhaps not unlike Ralph Lauren. But I can't help wondering if TRS has been fondling his new 'Guaranteed To Bleed' and pondering the while.
Then, of course, in London, there's the myth of the ham roll, the cheese roll... what we thick Midlanders call 'cobs'... All very puzzling to any Sloane Ranger with a horsey background I've no doubt... 'Do you wealize, Tarquin, north of Pwimwose Hill they call a woll by another name altogether? Aren't they funny'?
(Actually, my first wife, the dreaded Selina, and her sister Tottie, were merely displaced Sloanes. One ought not to make jokes at their expense. I guess).
I also think the collar roll myth is overstated. However for me, with a long neck, I always want a decent collar length. I was with my brother in law one time when he was buying a shirt and I pointed out the collar roll wasn't all that to which he repied' I have a short neck and a smaller collar suits me!' I had a vested interest because I usually end up with some of his shirts.
Brutus shirts in the 60s were not rated by my mates and the short sleeved ones were not good with the short, short tight sleeves and button on the sleeve with a small v. Some of the patterns of the checked shirts I liked however.
For half sleeved shirts we coverted the American imports.
Ben Sherman shirts we considered as good as many of the American import shirts but when everyone started to wear them we moved on in an effort of oneupmanship.
The Ben Sherman shirt, in my neck of the woods, was seen as being highly desirable circa 1970. My Mum would not let me have one. But they were right up there with Fred Perry, Harrington jackets and 'proper' Levis (not shite off the market). No-one would have paid the slightest heed to the collar, locker loop, placket, fabric or anything else. Did the birds go for it? Maybe, maybe not. If they did, who gave a toss?
'Aspirational' mothers, like mine (holidays abroad, dinner and dance, fucking other blokes on the side) were a real pain in the arse.
All fur coat, no knickers and anybody's for a glass of Babycham.
My mum stopped telling me what clothes to wear when I was 10 years old. Clothes were important to me even at that age and I knew what I wanted. She held the purse strings however so I couldn't just buy anything I wanted. I was the last boy in my class to get long trousers (I was also the youngest) but I went to the shop on my own to buy a pair of grey flannels with a white tap collar shirt at 10 1/2 years old.
Robbie, mine was still breathing down my neck when I was thirteen. Then she did me a big favour and pissed off.
Frosty to Ian Strachan: 'Who makes a good shirt?'
Strachan: 'Brooks'.
Inference: Why is this nebbish asking me these stupid questions?
One assumes that Pad and Jim remained loyal to Brooks, being slightly perplexed when Frosty went a-whoring in a Press direction.
I follow slavishly in Ian Strachan's footsteps.
Was it 'Geoffrey Scott' the Ivy Shop boys especially disliked?
Was it 'Geoffrey Scott' the Ivy Shop boys especially disliked?
May have disliked them, but that didn't stop them flogging you them. I bought a few really liked them. Ended up passing them onto my Dad when I went through the stage of getting rid of a lot of clothing. I asked for them back years later and he told me he binned 'em.
Watched an old Cary Grant movie last night. 1937. Randolph Scott's character was wearing a button-down: big collar, no roll, rather unattractive.