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#1 2022-07-27 04:11:15
- Kingston1an
- Member
- Posts: 4179
Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2022/07/what-ivy-means-to-me.html
Usually it would mean the most expensive purchase available but they are not selling anything in this article.
"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."
#2 2022-07-27 04:13:21
- Kingston1an
- Member
- Posts: 4179
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
He doesn’t like longwing brogues or sack jackets though.
"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."
#3 2022-07-27 05:09:43
- Tworussellstreet
- Member
- Posts: 599
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
Well he's basically into contemporary Italian gentry dress isn't he, and who can blame him as it is delightful. So his version of Ivy is the 'good taste' version of the look with all the fun, all the edge taken out. It's nice, but dull. There's not much fantasy in his wardrobe - it's subtle label flashing, the semiotics of affluence. It's why I don't really like Ralph Lauren - yes some good clothes, but the marketing has always been about the yawn of wealth, beauty and privilege. What people like Simon C never address is the politics of dress, they don't seem to question the unattainable prices, the luxury lifestyle which for most is both out of reach and undesirable. The joy of the Golden Age of Ivy in the US was its appeal to the many, at different price points. Clothes mass produced in factories by the unionised labour of America, sold and marketed by Jewish retailers and marketers, and worn by a vast proportion of the American population. And here in the UK was it all about looking cool, and clued in, and affiliated to your youth cult membership. And John Simons sold and presented a version of the look that was open and inclusive, without dipping too much into overt displays of vulgar wealth. So I like the luxury version, it looks great, but its ethics stink.
#4 2022-07-27 06:59:05
- Tworussellstreet
- Member
- Posts: 599
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
Just to return to this for a moment - can you believe one of Sime's visual examples of 'Good Ivy' is that gormless git Chinsfold looking all boss-eyed in his seersucker jacket ?
#5 2022-07-27 10:52:45
- Runninggeez
- Member
- Posts: 688
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
30+ years ago Compers would've been another one of those Rugby Rupert types, swanning into the IS Richmond in a PRL Rugby shirt, Timberland boots and stone wash jeans.
Another one of those interweb Ivy know-all's.
#6 2022-07-27 11:41:06
- RobbieB
- Member
- Posts: 2219
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
He doesn't like longwings and he doesn't like oxblood! The man's a Heathen.
I can understand he doesn't like sack jackets because I note that he has severe sloping shoulders so the look wouldn't be good on him anyway.
And as 2RS writes some of the 'good Ivy' examples are a bit suspect.
However, he does dress better than 99% of the male population, that I see on my travels and he makes a few good points in his piece.
Last edited by RobbieB (2022-07-27 11:42:36)
'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.
#7 2022-07-27 11:56:02
- colin
- Bright Light
- Posts: 1365
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
The brown tweed overcoat and golden yellow Shetland is. Lovely combo. Good to see him move away from the god awful bright red trousers with animals posh American look, but it still loses all the edge of the ivy look to me....
#8 2022-07-27 12:06:36
- Kingston1an
- Member
- Posts: 4179
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
‘..the unattainable prices, the luxury lifestyle which for most is both out of reach and undesirable.’
Not that long ago many would aspire to luxury lifestyle which was out of reach. Working men still wore suits for best and the Savile Row name was regarded as the pinnacle. Styles might be tweaked slightly for a younger age group but quality was still acknowledged.
I am not sure when politics came into it. The bowler hat maybe symbolised a certain type but not many wore bowler hats or aspired to.
"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."
#9 2022-07-27 15:16:44
- AlveySinger
- Member
- Posts: 900
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
I appreciate that PS is trying to give a personal perspective of 'My' Ivy, his likes and dislikes.
My problem is what is left is just too generic.
This is backed up by his choice of images. Take for example the McQueen in sweatshirt and chinos and the second Gene Kelly pic. They're not really great examples of Ivy style.
I am not a fan of his tweed suit. The shoulder line looks too extreme and the raised sleeve head lacks the subtle elegance associated with Ivy jackets.
I also feel he confuses Ivy with Prep.
#10 2022-07-27 15:26:00
- Runninggeez
- Member
- Posts: 688
Re: Meanwhile, Permanent Style on Ivy
Alvey, I was surprised not to see the JFK pic on the yacht, dressed in shaggy dog, khaki's & sneakers. Yawn.....