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#1 2022-09-22 06:11:26

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I know the current state of BB infuriates many purists on here but I still find the occasional item or two.

I recently bought an affordable pair of seersucker shorts from one of their Orlando outlets and their polo shirts are pretty good too.

I'm on their mailing list and get frequent emails. Case in point was an email I received this morning. Merchandise looks very Ralph inspired but with much better shirt collars.

There was a tartan flannel shirt that I wanted to investigate further but upon clicking through to the home page you are transported to an EU website promoting shipping from Italy. And here is where the problem starts.

There's hardly any merchandise on the site and it has no correlation with the clothes promoted on the email. You used to be able to load the US website but sadly you are now re-routed to this new site.

In the States the turn around of Brooks is gathering steam and they appear to be making a step back towards where they should be. Although not Ivy they have created a version of modern-prep that I hope works for them.

So it's really disappointed that the UK isn't getting a look-in.

 

#2 2022-09-22 06:44:44

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Alvey

Yes. I've noticed US Brooks is gathering steam over there. They seem to be framing themselves alongside RL and as a more grown up J Crew, which surely they always should have done?

Unfortunately it seems that nobody at Brooks is confident that UK customers have an appetite for branding and style so advertently American? Maybe they've seen the recent relative failures of themselves, Gap and J Crew in the UK as a sign that this isn't their market right now?

I know there's A LOT of Brooks in Italian warehouses and a flagship store in Rome. But I'm not sure it's really taking off there or across the continent. I'm not sure the Italian owners are particularly interested in pushing it.

Maybe Brooks is better off nursing itself back to health over there for now.

 

#3 2022-09-22 20:17:52

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Last time I was in the States, the store I visited was dreadful. No Ivy OCBD's at all.

When the Italians took over, they had concessions at Linate airport and in Venice and elsewhere. All good stuff, but then they just seem to lose traction all of a sudden. The EU website is a joke. Nothing at all.

If they've a lot of stuff in warehouses, what are they waiting for? Get it out, even if you need to go the outlet village route.

 

#4 2022-09-23 13:10:43

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I don't think it's Italian ownership anymore. I have a feeling it's co-owned between Simon who own the factory outlet malls and someone else.

 

#5 2022-09-23 13:30:24

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I think it’s owned by Authentic Brands Group these days, a brand management and holding company & as Alvey said, Simons, the mall owners (not the illustrious Mr John of the same name, that WOULD be interesting!) - Micheal Bastion (formerly of Gant and others) came into play at about the same time as the takeover in 2020 and has gone on record a few times about wanting to return the brand to its core ideals - there’s quite a good interview with him from Esquire last year here: https://www.esquire.com/style/mens-fashion/a38082190/michael-bastian-brooks-brothers-creative-director-interview/

- so things hopefully can begin to come back around for them, certainly there’s some really interesting stuff hitting BB Japan (possibly their biggest market these days, brooks brothers.co.jp) - that’s where i would be starting first too.

as for warehouses full of stuff in Italy, no idea. I’d heard that rumor too. More interesting was the rumor of a shop in the Burlington Arcade that was having a fire-sale on Brooks Brothers. That was in April of this year and came from John Rushton. Sadly on my fleeting visit, I didn’t have time to go and check it out.

 

#6 2022-09-27 05:30:20

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

There was shop near Green Park tube station that was to the rafters with BB merchandise. Being sold off at very silly prices. I went in but even at cheap prices thee was too much Milano slim fit nonsense and nothing Ivy-esque.
Not sure if it's still there.

 

#7 2022-09-27 20:12:35

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

''...Milano slim fit nonsense...''

That's where they started to go wrong, instead of 2 or even 3 fits, they came up with several and sub-fits within. Bonkers. Especially for online shopping. RL hasn't made that mistake. They keep it simple in the main: Classic, Custom, Slim. You've also got your Big & Tall too for American football player builds.

 

#8 2022-09-28 05:01:14

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 332

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Alvey -‘ There was shop near Green Park tube station that was to the rafters with BB merchandise. Being sold off at very silly prices. I went in but even at cheap prices thee was too much Milano slim fit nonsense and nothing Ivy-esque.
Not sure if it's still there.’

On Piccadilly more or less opposite the old Simpson’s building (Waterstones). I have been in there, the rest of the shop is full of non descript Italian type menswear. The Brooks stuff they have fits in perfectly, I soon moved on.

 

#9 2022-09-28 09:12:06

oxford cloth button down
Member
Posts: 1302

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Brooks still has it all... if you can make it to Japan

https://www.brooksbrothers.co.jp/top/search/asp/list.asp?s_cate3=8

 

#10 2022-09-28 11:34:09

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

DuLouz,
There is an even slimmer fit known as Soho too.

 

#11 2022-09-28 11:50:30

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Ox,

thanks for the link.

In the UK we can't view the USA site now so it's good to see some of the new content BB have created.

What I find frustrating is having looked at the jackets there are still a number of Ivy items available in Japan that even the USA discontinued.

My big criticism of Brooks was they threw away what had made them distinctive and traded it in for something that was generic at best and often done better by other brands such as Zegna.

In marketing speak we often talk about if you're not unique be great. It's a dead simple formula that says if you haven't got something distinctive that's worthwhile capitalising on and you find yourself consigned to the herd try and be better than the next brand. Could be price, quality, customer service, etc. Sadly from my own experience Brooks were none of these things. Certain commentators will argue that there isn't the market for traditional with a twist menswear in the USA anymore. I wonder if Mr Lauren agrees whilst jetting between his 5 homes.

 

#12 2022-10-10 20:46:08

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

''My big criticism of Brooks was they threw away what had made them distinctive and traded it in for something that was generic at best and often done better by other brands such as Zegna''

And of course, as you reference, Ralph Lauren.

Last store I went into was in Washington DC and it was a big disappointment. I expected something grand and distinctive and it was neither, very cheap and cheery. You wouldn't know the heritage at all, zero atmosphere. By contrast, a Ralph Lauren store, even an outlet has more than a modicum of a vibe that something RTW and good will be found in here.

 

#13 2022-10-11 01:47:54

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I first went to NYC in 1995 and made the pilgrimage to 346 Madison filled with expectation. Man, what a disappointment. The business was already on the slide - cavernous store with a handful of customers, most of the stock already made overseas, the classic shirt shoved in a corner with only 3 colours available. Back in London, in John Simons' little shop, I wanted to buy everything. At the Mothership Of Ivy, in the heart of Manhattan, I bought a shirt and a pair of old school boxer shorts and retreated, crestfallen...

 

#14 2022-10-12 14:48:38

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I think my first visit to 346 was late Eighties/early nineties.

Everyone was bigging up Brooks as the home of button down shirts. I expected a shirt emporium a bit like Charvet in Paris.

Wow. I was totally underwhelmed. From what I recall it was the merchandising that was really poor. Circular tables with the stuff just stacked on them. Cheap price ticketing in the middle of each table. I didn't buy anything as it was all so depressing.

The Rhinelander Mansion on the other hand was the place of dreams. Beautiful room sets, tasteful merchandising, elegant and polite staff. You wanted to linger and soak in the atmosphere.

I look back on it now with amusement. Ralph was the pretender with no heritage and Brooks was the original - with a rich pedigree and yet the stores were the polar opposite of this.

I never really knew Russell Street in its pomp. For me it was the loafer shop with a confusing line in Vintage clothing.I missed out on so many great clothes and brands.

 

#15 2022-10-17 02:37:36

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

They’ve got new shirts.  USA make.  Haven’t tried them. 

Don’t find them to have anything i want anymore. 

Boxers ok.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#16 2022-10-17 05:11:18

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

I bought a chambray shirt from them a couple of months ago.

Madison fit, great collar roll and the fabric is perfect.

 

#17 2022-10-17 12:20:19

Jdemy
Member
Posts: 696

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

Just walked by the old Brooks Brothers store on Madison. It’s empty except for a pop-up shop of some kind. Ghostly and sad.

 

#18 2022-10-17 23:05:00

our man in ginza
Member
From: tokyo
Posts: 111

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

When did the Madison store actually close?? 2020??

 

#19 2022-11-02 11:08:50

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: BROOKS BROTHERS TODAY

So today I received an early Christmas message from Brooks' CEO. Well written and with a 30% Off Code. Nice gesture it it would be rude not to acknowledge it.

Whilst Mrs Singer was out I decided to venture forth and see what 30% off would get me.

I'm only going to browse and even Mrs Singer wouldn't see the harm in that. Let's face it 30% Off is a bit tempting to an addict like me.

I feverishly click through and wait for the page to load. I start salivating thinking about brushed knits and coloured cord 5 pockets.

So what happens?

The bloody Italian site loads and it doesn't feature ether the new stylish merchandise I crave or offer the deal.

 

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