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#1 2022-05-10 11:22:43

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Yesterday I was in London and took a small diversion down through Chiltern Street.

Whilst Our Favourite Shop doesn't open on a Monday it was pleasant to wander down there knowing there wouldn't be any temptation.

Unfortunately I am usually in such a rush to get to John Simons and then off to my next destination that I don't take a second to marvel at my surroundings. Yesterday I made an effort to address this.

Chiltern Street is really a very lovely part of London. It manages to be lively without being busy. The elegant Victorian lower part is a sharp contrast to the bland top part.

As the weather was good a number of people were sitting outside enjoying the mid morning sun with a coffee, helping create a continental touch.

Monocle cafe serves great coffee and pastries and there was a steady stream of customers. Whilst the newsstand a few doors down looked like it was doing brisk business.

Whilst Trunk and Grey Flannel aren't on my radar they add to the overall ambience of the street. Add in the musical instrument shop and a dedicated whisky establishment and you have something rather special.

I would of loved to amble away more time there but unfortunately couldn't.

Bond Street has now been wrecked by high rents and an increasingly large pedestrian area. Soho is a shadow of what it used to be and I never liked Covent Garden as it always felt manufactured for tourists.

It's rare to find a small part of London that's so enjoyable.

 

#2 2022-05-10 11:42:26

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Covent Garden was better when one felt that Mr.Rusk might be lurking round the next corner, necktie in hand. 
The area as it was also featured in British movies like 'Hue And Cry' - a classic from Ealing.
I enjoyed Soho the last time I visited - but then I did have the pleasure of J.P.Gaul's company.

 

#3 2022-05-10 11:58:20

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Marylebone in general has always been quite nice, run-down posh until 10-15 years ago when it started to improve again, it always had a faintly Parisienne feel to it, aided by an overspill of French refugees that were better heeled than the Soho set but not quite up the standard of their wealthier cousins to the west in Kensington/Belgravia. There used to be some fantastic cafes and restaurants in the area, mostly pushed out now by rising rates and rents but one or two hang on still. Chiltern St was never much on my radar until JS moved there but it holds a certain appeal - I quite like Trunk as a shop, Monocle cafe is a new one to me but I remember the old Monocle magazine shop over toward Goodge St (Charlotte St maybe?) reasonably well. I like Marylebone, it’s the kind of area I’d quite like to live if I were ever to return to London.

 

#4 2022-05-10 12:33:03

woofboxer
Devil's Ivy Advocate
From: The Lost County of Middlesex
Posts: 7959

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

The neighbourhood is owned by the Portman Estate who have been quite far sighted in managing Chiltern Street by ensuring that shops are only to let to independent niche retailers who will attract people into the area through reputation. The chain stores must be itching to get in there and hopefully they will continue to be held at bay. John Simons were also far sighted in being one of the first shops to open up there after the street was refurbed. Since then then it has blossomed and, as Alvey says, it is a nice place to have a coffee and spend time, even if you are not there to shop.


'I'm not that keen on the Average Look .......ever'. 
John Simons

Achievements: banned from the Ivy Style FB Group

 

#5 2022-05-10 14:05:52

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4179

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

There is still Paul Rothe for soup and Liptauer sandwiches in Marylebone Lane. Old school Formica caff at the Southern end is gone, along with the ironmongers and the shop that only sold buttons, The Button Queen (relocated to Pembrokeshire)

There is a decent pub - The Golden Eagle - with a piano player and people singing along and a pricey but reasonable fish and chip shop.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#6 2022-05-11 04:32:14

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

On the subject of Soho, I seem to remember Staceyboy being a keen collector of books on the area, one or two of which now run pretty damned expensive. 
Years ago, I used to read 'The Spectator' every week without fail and Jeffrey Bernard sometimes managed to stay unpissed for long enough to file his copy.  'Soho - So Boring' was how he was describing it around thirty years ago.  So where in London do you cling to?  I think it was simply that most of Bernard's old drinking cronies had died off, the atmosphere had largely dissipated and he was in increasingly bad health.  I hear Hoxton is now a trendy zone.  Is that correct?  Even the dismal town I live in fancies itself no end when it comes to vegan snacks and Gay Pride marches.

 

#7 2022-05-11 05:04:06

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

I loved London, and Soho particularly back in my late teens/early twenties. Record shops, Textile King, gigs, clubs. I'd be up there three or four times a week sometimes. This was back when you had to dodge all the fallen fruit and veg. And not get caught gazing through certain shop windows.

Even my first rented studio flat was chosen for it's proximity to the train station so I could be at Waterloo in half an hour. I knew I'd cracked it when I could navigate the underground without looking up to check the maps.

I stopped going for whatever reason. Last year we took the boy there for a Mon - Fri break and I just didn't have the same feeling about it. Couldn't get any enthusiasm for the town at all.

 

#8 2022-05-11 05:36:31

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Interesting.
I've never lived in London but shivered for two years in a bedsit in Salford, trekking into Manchester most days.  I celebrated my twenty first birthday in the upstairs room of a dodgy pub.  A crisp got stuck in my throat. 
I had a pretty good time on the whole: got to know a couple of cinema managers and so got in free.  I used to see three and four movies in a day.  I went to the theatre and saw Shaw, Ibsen, Chekhov, Pirandello, Pinter performed by household names.  Attending an afternoon matinee cost about £1 in 1982.  I went to museums, galleries, ate smoked salmon sandwiches, even worked in the theatre for a short while.
I went back in 1987 with my first wife and baby daughter, wondered how I'd stuck the noise and pollution for so long, and never went back.

 

#9 2022-05-11 06:21:35

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

I think it's similar to the mentality people have towards reunions. They want to show off how much they've changed to a load of people they expect to have stayed the same.

You go back to an area you loved or lived in and expect it to be the same. Of course it has moved on without you. Or never was how you remember it. Very George Orwell's Coming Up For Air.

Soho had a great shop that sold reprints of movie posters upstairs. Stills postcards in racks from A-Z that you'd flick through. The basement had piles of music papers and magazines. The only order would be; Pile of NME's over there. Pile of The Face over there. You had to sit on the floor and move one pile to another spot one by one to find what might have a piece you wanted to buy. Pre internet it was good to find and bring home an old, long forgotten Zig Zag interview or a still from Blow Up for your bedroom wall.

Now you sit at home online, use the search bar and click 'buy now'. No soul at all.

 

#10 2022-05-11 06:58:24

AFS
Member
Posts: 2740

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Boy, was I relieved to get out of Salford.  I remember washing Levis, sticking them on the washing line in the yard, then watching them till they dried.  You had to.  You couldn't go out and leave them.  They'd be gone when you got back.
One of the toughest areas I lived in, though, was about a mile from where I grew up.  They stole the dustbin and even a rock I used to prop open the front gate. 
Parts of Salford - around 'Spike Island' - were a no-go area when I lived there.  The south side of Manchester, harbouring a bad reputation for gang warfare, was pretty quiet in comparison.  I used to go to an arty cinema to see old French and Italian movies and, well, you just never saw anyone on the street.

 

#11 2022-09-27 13:32:57

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Alvey - you have mentioned Ruebens Deli in Baker St a couple of times so I decided to call in today only to find the shutters down and no sign of activity. This article mentions that it changed hands a couple of years ago:

https://london.eater.com/2019/8/20/20813479/reubens-kosher-restaurant-deli-central-london-rescue

I’m not sure if it has closed again.  I have read a number of reviews on Trip Advisor about the food, service and hygiene since the change of ownership that are pretty damning, so I feel I may nave had a lucky escape.

 

#12 2022-09-27 15:04:35

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

FlatSixC

Ruebens was no doubt closed as it's the second day of Rosh Hashana, the Jewish New Year. The second day is observed by the conservative community.

Next week it will be closed for a couple of days too so suggest you try it in about two weeks.

 

#13 2022-09-27 15:35:41

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Thanks Alvey, perhaps I will.

 

#14 2022-09-27 19:28:19

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

''You go back to an area you loved or lived in and expect it to be the same. Of course it has moved on without you. Or never was how you remember it. Very George Orwell's Coming Up For Air.''

Orwell resonates of late. There's more than a whiff of authoritarianism in the air. The control of language. The lies and deceit we're all now meant to buy into, or else. The failure of the political class and the sinister machinations of the technocratic elites. Bad times are just around the corner.

Don't feel much nostalgia, but I do like to go back to places I've known and see how they've changed and stayed the same. I thought the town and country of my youth were permanent. How wrong I was. The weather is consistently the same when I visit, exactly how I remember it and the dampness too that lingers for most the year.

 

#15 2022-09-28 02:39:55

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Change is constant and never more so in great cities like London and New York. Over the years on FNB posters have often bemoaned the disappearance of beloved shops and businesses, mopped up by the spread of chains and big capital inflows. Creeping gentrification swallows up neighbourhoods, erasing their character, pricing residents out and displacing them into the suburbs, in turn bringing about unwelcome changes in those areas. It’s all part of the development of cities of course and quite fascinating, apart from when you don’t like the changes. If you’re interested in the development of London I can recommend a book called’ Metroburbia’ by Paul Knox which describes how London grew from an urban core surrounded by a collection of villages to the sprawling city of today. Knox also wrote one called ‘Metroburbia USA’ but that doesn’t concentrate so much on one area area and is more broadbrush and academic in style.

Duloux - ‘ Don't feel much nostalgia, but I do like to go back to places I've known and see how they've changed and stayed the same. I thought the town and country of my youth were permanent. How wrong I was. The weather is consistently the same when I visit, exactly how I remember it and the dampness too that lingers for most the year.’

Sounds very similar to the seaside area where I grew up in the West of England. Now subject to big population growth as people move in from less attractive and more expensive parts of the UK, keen to ‘escape to the country’. But for many the reality of their rural dream is a depressed place with little commercial activity and life on a soulless housing estate, far from any shops or amenities.

Last edited by FlatSixC (2022-09-28 02:48:33)

 

#16 2022-09-28 06:06:29

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

I still get a thrill when I get off the train at Marylebone.

London has no doubt changed in many ways - some good and some not so.

On a positive note it feels much safer than when I was a teen/early twenties.

First it was the NF nutters who used to gather in Carnaby Street. Always looking to kick-off if someone dared to look different.Then in the later Eighties the football casuals. Nasty little fuckers playing truant in their golf sweaters and Farah trousers. Would often try and look intimidating in their gangs. "Oi mate where did you get those loafers". In reality they were probably from private schools in Surrey.

Shopping back then wasn't a leisure pursuit. Sure you could spend an afternoon window shopping and just browsing but it wasn't a family event with a casual dining lunch thrown into the middle. For many retailers now they market the experience. Tastefully created window displays, merchandise elegantly presented, a pulsating soundtrack to stimulate the senses.

 

#17 2022-09-28 06:49:32

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Blimey Alvey. I can't imagine anything worse than shopping being a family event! I'd spend half the time being pulled away by an eight year old and half the time sitting outside the changing rooms in Matalan. Far better as a solo pursuit for me.

You're right about the eighties though. The further we get away from that decade the more it looks like a particularly unpleasent time. People moan about kids spending all their time indoors staring at screens now as though the alternative is climbing trees and making camps. The reality always was that they were hanging around town centres and playgrounds for a good old smoke and spit.

 

#18 2022-09-28 07:57:00

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

Spenders, wait till the little one hits his teens.

My daughter would wait patiently for me in John Simons now at 15 she is disparate to get into Monocle cafe and then onto Brandy Melville.

The tables have turned

 

#19 2022-09-28 14:31:44

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: A STROLL DOWN CHILTERN STREET

''My daughter would wait patiently for me in John Simons now at 15 she is disparate to get into Monocle cafe and then onto Brandy Melville.''

Enjoy that, as my eldest is the head union convenor of the shoplifters of the world unite and takeover cooperative.

 

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