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  •  » A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

#1 2022-09-19 10:32:16

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

This post is going to be all over the place, make of it what you will.

It's a subject I've been discussing with a few people of late though, my personal desire to be buying clothing that is made to last and as ethically/morally "just" as I can manage.
I'm not a particularly political person but I have over the last few years grown tired of questionable labour practices, cheap manufacturing and non-existent quality control.

Gitman Vintage shirts have their fans here, I know, but not having owned one, I can't help but wonder if they're worth the price. They seem to be impressively ethically "clean" too, Made in the US, fair wages paid, employing successive generations of the same families, it all ticks boxes.
With a J Simons wool flannel running £150 quid (made in London - by who?? I balked at that price..), the nearest comparable Gitman - a cotton flannel will set you back £175 however.
Oxfords too seem to run from 25-50 quid above the nearest "comparable" shirt - and don't get me started on some of their more exotic cloth choices, starting at £185 and going as high as £250ish.
So are they worth the price difference, what exactly are you paying for?

But just where are people going  to go for a good-quality winter weight button-down shirt, in flannels/plaids? Is your only option to spend vast sums of money if you're seeking a 

Lands End have not bothered to update their range in a couple of years, the quality is borderline at best and I think most would agree that their collar roll (or more to the point, lack there of) leaves a lot to be desired. Made in China too - is it still fair to say that's long been a turn-off for me?

Marks & Sparks quality took a nose-dive several years ago and has yet to return, not to mention their questionable ethical practices (child labour accusations, Bangladeshi sweat-shops etc), not to mention the collars are shit!

Good old Chiltern Street make a nice product, I admit, but being outside of the UK, I'm staring down the barrel of 220 euros for a shirt by the time I pay import fees and shipping - and the flannel shirts only come in two colours.

Uniqlo produce a few block colour flannel shirts yes but I think you have to question their practices if they're able to churn them out for 35 euros a pop and be making a profit.

Who else is there? Jake?- same issue with J Simons, if you're outside the UK, buying from within the UK becomes unviable because of import costs and the price of shipping. I'd love to support Jake more because his shirts are excellent and he's independent, the two shirts I do have from him are outstanding. For the prupose of this threrad he has no flannel however, not that I've seen anyway.

So it's not entirely a moral conundrum - I understand that fundamentally if you want quality and to have had your clothing made by someone who receives a decent wage and has a decent standard of living then you have to pay for that privilege. I don't even think that say JS or Jake's shirts are *that* expensive for what they are (I know some may disagree) - I don't really object to paying 150 pounds (as I speak, about 170 euros) for a shirt, although I do think it's perhaps a little steep. What I do object to is being fleeced by UPS/An Post/Courier and the taxman for another 40-50 euros on top of the asking price - and that prevents me from buying more from the UK.

 

#2 2022-09-19 11:25:21

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Tim - as mentioned a couple of times on here I’m a Gitman fan, the oxfords are excellent quality, take a look at Cultizm in Germany, in the EU, priced in Euros, big savings if you see something you like in your size, shipping about 20 euros, I guess they’re going to get even more expensive soon with the weakness of the GBP & Euro against the USD, personally I’d buy a Gitman over JS every time,

 

#3 2022-09-19 14:08:08

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

I went to investigate Stax. Cultizm have one flannel from Gitman. €289 and as you say, another 20 euros shipping.
For that kind of money, it’d want to come with a gold bar in the pocket.

 

#4 2022-09-19 15:57:18

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1268

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Finding an ethically made, Ivy acceptable BD flannel shirt made in UK or USA for a sub-£100 will be ever more tricky. It is a tiny, declining customer base and high standard you seek.
The additional costs and postal surcharges will make any option much more expensive.
What about locally made options to where you live? Or dropping the need for BD collar. Then just in UK other options become possible.
As we are finding, ethics in clothing can be expensive. It is hard to know what to do sometimes,other than buy less (and therefore better) or second hand.
Ivy wear is fading away I believe, it is only going to become more niche and expensive so either your wallet or choice will have to give at some point.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2022-09-19 16:00:05)

 

#5 2022-09-20 02:42:53

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4181

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Lands End was very good quality flannel the last time I bought. It may have been Portuguese cloth.

Unfortunately the patterns have been uninspiring for the last few years. The button down collar was just about acceptable but the tailored fit was very well executed.

It depends how particular you are. The Lands End OCBD are still OK unless you insist on a certain collar size and manufacture in certain countries.

It is still possible to put together an inexpensive overall look that looks pretty good. If you want certain items there will be a less expensive option out there.

Or you could go down the Crompton route with the £200 plain white T shirt. Nobody would notice the difference but you could bask in the knowledge that it cost so much that it must be better than anything else out there. Veblen Ivy.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#6 2022-09-21 05:17:59

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Unseen Scene - ‘ Ivy wear is fading away I believe, it is only going to become more niche and expensive so either your wallet or choice will have to give at some point.’

Maybe in the short term yes, but having observed this for a few decades I’m confident that in due course there will be a resurgence of interest in the Ivy Look. In the early 70s when the glam-rock, hairy flarey style was king no one would have forseen that a few years later button down collars and loafers would be back. Traditional American and Italian looks have formed the bedrock of mens clothing styles for 70 years. Every time the designers run out of fresh ideas they reach for the Ivy look book, it’s never far away. There’s always now going to be a proportion of men who are happy living in jeans and football shirts or tracksuits and there’s always going to be men who want to make more effort, even if the effort is something we would see as being fairly minimal. But then we’re not normal are we?

 

#7 2022-09-21 20:25:07

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

In the fashion cycle, Ivy is definitely out. You had that great wave of the late 2000's and up to the mid-2010's when there was a buzz and vibe with Ivy now it's gone.

Brooks Brothers is dead...

That intrigues me, was it the Italian ownership milking/running it into the ground, or did the demographic go over the event horizon?

Gitman looks good, Kamakura's Graham Marsh designs, Mercer & Sons but reduced shirting options and in the mainstream Ralph Lauren is always good for a few very decent Madras outings each year. And there's always Alden's on the gunboat and saddle oxford front.

As for ethics and shirting...cotton is a substance that will return to nature. It's not plastic. Dyes can pollute though. Ralph Lauren et al, are now making polo shirts and other items that are made from plastic bottles and other plastics reclaimed from being dumped into the sea. That's eminently a good idea.

You will always pay a premium for non-sweatshop/far east made items. Not everyone can afford to. Also the label don't mean nothing. Italy is full of rag trade sweat shops with Chinese labour from Wuhan of all places, working under the same conditions and non-protected under EU law. As too in England.

 

#8 2022-09-22 04:30:58

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Ivy as part of the wider fashion world still comes and goes. Problem is as part of fast fashion it comes and goes so quick you'd miss it unless you happened to chance across that days online promotion or piece on J Simons.

We all know Uniqlo's good for a few pieces. Last season's Next collection featured some logo-less shirts in decent colourways and fits with good collars, back pleats and locker loops (although even I never bit) Loafers, desert boots.. A few retailers had a go at copying Paraboot style shoes. Nothing earth shattering or worth a special trip but the ghost of ivy is often there. The high street has definitely now moved on from skin tight half mast trousers and one finger collars.

Of course a lot of guys into ivy league style clothing wouldn't have set foot in high street chain stores for years so would have missed this. And if you're used to what I think of as the 'Ivy big gun' names, it's true that the quality and ethics just isn't there.

I don't know if I'm fussed about another buzz around Ivy really. You've only got to look on Instagram to see that people who want to are finding and wearing the stuff and interpreting it in different ways.  I don't think it would add anything for me to walk down the road and see a hundred kids dressed in it.

I believe M&S played a fairly large part in hammering in Brooks final nails. Just a complete mis match. But people who know more than me would probably say the rot had set in well before then. I'll never get my head around the Italian ownership. I had it on very good authority that there were aircraft hanger sized warehouses full of Brooks just waiting to be distributed around Europe. Not long after it started popping up in TK Maxx and discount on line stores, which is a sure sign that something's gone tits up somewhere.

Ralph/Sperry etc are all jumping on the recycled bottle bandwagon. Doesn't really do any good as the the final product can't be re-recycled. So fast fashion+ethical talk still=landfill.

 

#9 2022-09-22 06:21:24

Spendthrift
Member
Posts: 659

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Just returning to Tim's original rant.

I do believe that a huge part of the price issue is that even though it should be a relatively simple transaction; man makes shirt, shopkeeper stocks shirt, man wants to buy shirt, we've somehow managed to reach a point where there's an extraordinarily long queue of people putting their hand out for their share at every single stage. Tax, shipping, marketing, IT, staff pension contribution, rents, rates, bank charges. It just goes on and on. I know all this is necessary, but it can make you question what percentage is the shirt's real worth and what pecentage is essentially common skimming.

I would say that 80 - 90% of my clothing purchases are now from charity shops. Which I do feel at least partly divorces me from a lot of the above. And I get a good deal and some money goes to good causes etc. etc. But that's not for everyone. And of course it does mean I can't pop out for a blackwatch flannel shirt with a good collar roll whenever I feel like it.

 

#10 2022-09-22 20:12:17

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

''Ralph/Sperry etc are all jumping on the recycled bottle bandwagon. Doesn't really do any good as the the final product can't be re-recycled. So fast fashion+ethical talk still=landfill.''

Better the plastic bottle turned into a shirt, than clogging up the oceans. That's the way I see it. It's a step in the right direction.

 

#11 2022-09-23 03:06:38

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

I have seen signs in places like Uniqlo and Primark saying that a piece of clothing is made from recycled plastic or bottles. I must say it wouldn’t make me want to buy it. I had to wear synthetic polo shirts at work for several years, bloody awful.

Last edited by FlatSixC (2022-09-23 03:06:56)

 

#12 2022-09-23 21:18:11

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

^Indeed, you wouldn't want to be wearing synthetic shirts everyday.

 

#13 2022-10-04 05:18:41

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: A rant: Gitman, winter shirts, the ethics of modern clothing

Tim - Possible solution for your shirt matter , don't shout at me though.... Gant - relaxed fit shirts, from the pictures good collar roll,back button, locker loop, back pleat, no logo on chest ( on sleeve I believe), around £100 - £120, (they'll be 30% off soon I'm sure), I'd need to see them in the flesh , I've never had a problem with the quality of the material used and the construction of their shirts, chest logos and small collars have been my issue with Gant in recent years,  but worth a look I think.....

 
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