A mate notified me that Drakes are knocking out L/S Madras Popovers, designed in collaboration with Jason Jules and they come with a hefty £225 price tag.
Nice, but not at that price.
Funny time to be selling madras? The ones on the on line store are nice but not as interesting as the ones JJ's wearing in the editorial piece
If I had a £225 Drakes voucher I'd rather spend it on one of their cable shetlands
I preferred them when they focused on ties. But I suppose not much of a future in just selling ties. They needed to branch out.
For me they come across as flogging gear that's a bit overpriced. The current range of OCBD's have some decent rarer colours and Made in England/Somerset, but €230.00 is a bit much for a standard blue-white striped one. It's bog-standard shirting and shouldn't come with a premium.
I always wonder who on earth has the money to buy more than the odd thing from Drake's? Always seems wildly over-priced, not least as we can see that made in London doesn't cost THAT much. They often have some lovely ivy-esque items, but feels a bit fashionista playing ivy dress up (JJ aside).
Maybe it's because I picked up lots of old jackets and shirts many years ago on the cheap off eBay USA and elsewhere, but I can't see how and why people can pay that much for that stuff *shrugs*
I mean, if the average drakes customer probably lives in London, say, how can they afford it with all other costs of living? I get they sell to the wealthy, but it still blows my mind!
I don't like Drakes. Some lovely clothes obviously, but it's about more than that isn't it? It sells to the significant number of affluent young city traders/hedge fund managers (all based in Mayfair), gallery owners and attendees and the masses of tourists now taking advantage of the Tory-devastated pound. For some people £225 is loose change. I find it all rather vulgar, a symbol of our divided society with its ever-growing number of super rich and ever-growing number of food banks. Tax the buggers till they bleed. Shop at JS, a kind, inclusive and non-elitist business or buy second-hand.
I notice Drakes have stopped stocking Paraboots and Aldens in their footwear section. Of course these items are obtainable elsewhere which sort of sets the price.
I like the general look Drakes put together in their look books, a sort of English Ivy? But £225 for those shirts looks pretty silly compared against a made to order Jakes shirt from £150. The same goes for the rest of their clothing range, well over priced for what it is and designed to appeal to people who have lots to spend. the Veblen effect again maybe?
Having said that, these things are all relative and most people would see shopping in John Simons as being wildly extravagant and unnecessary. As 2RS says, the difference is what you are buying into, an ethos and inspiration behind the designs.
Agreed ^
Rather than going to a shop and spending £1000, I find a certain appeal at finding old Makers shirts for a tenner, or old Shetlands for pennies. That said, it's taken a decade to have 'enough' stuff, and suspect it's a more instant thing for most, ivy as a sort of Instagram lookbook
''Rather than going to a shop and spending £1000, I find a certain appeal at finding old Makers shirts for a tenner, or old Shetlands for pennies.''
You woudn't get much for a grand in Drakes. You'd need to spend some serious wonga to get their casual English take on the Ivy look. They're pretty discerning mind you. Can't knock that. More good stuff than the Brooks Brothers non-Japanese sites. But you can get all of that, much more cost effective elsewhere.
I enjoyed for a period getting gear off ebay, had some hits and misses. Sometimes you get somebody who's inherited some stuff they want to get rid of quick and you hit the mother lode.
I would like to defend Drakes. I really would.
I would start by mentioning the quality of the materials they use. You know, mother-of-pearl buttons, decent weight Oxford cloth, etc.
But then....
I start to think about the fit. Far too bizarre for my tastes. The shirts tend to be quite fitted even in classic fit. You can size up collar wise, as they do offer 3/4 collar but then the arms are all wrong.
Certain sports shirts are offered in alpha sizes. I have had for a number of years a chambray pull-over. Superb collar roll and 4 button placket but needed to get the arm length reduced as huge.
I also own a seersucker jacket that although unlined is so thick I could wear it in Winter. Again, the fit is too neat. It was half price and I wanted something for a wedding.
Then I think about their prices. The costs are now too prohibitive. I don't think you can justify that kind of money for a madras shirt given the material is not unique to them. (I have the same cloth from Press)
Drakes do a great job of pulling together a range of merchandise we all recognise-as it's pretty close to Ivy. But why pay a premium for something when you can get the originals for less.
It is absurd to constantly complain about the fact that so many companies are outsourcing their production to low-wage countries and at the same time bemoan the prices of products made in England or the USA.
The reason for these prices is that a) it costs something to pay people decently and use good materials and b) not enough people buy these products.
I realize that not everyone has the financial capacity to spend a fortune at Drake's or similar manufacturers, but these prices are no coincidence. And no, capitalism is not evil.
I agree we should not buy clothes that are dirt cheap as this obviously reinforces poverty wages and worse. Yet their Shetlands are £250 odd, which is a doubling of what we know they cost elsewhere for made in Scotland (same manufacturers and workers). Likewise, we know made in London shirts for John Simons are between £90-£130, yet their shirts are £200+
But would certainly agree, it's crazy to imagine mid 20th century unionised shirt makers of mass production mass consumption for a national (usa) economy can be the same today in globalised, debt-driven rapid consumption economies. Nonetheless, still feel it's widely overpriced and aimed at people with more money than sense
Last edited by colin (2022-10-04 03:35:39)
Colin
You are 100% right
J Press manage to sell a good Made in the US Oxford for about £120.
Your example of Shetland sweaters hits the mark too.
Most of the stuff I buy - but not all - comes from the USA or Japan and it sells for a lot cheaper.
Likely a significant portion of Drakes costs will be in rent and that will account for added mark-up too.
Let's be honest, a lot of the costs will be the 'prestige' mark up that all high end brands add on.
I should add to my above comment, that issue about not being able to make clothes now (and here) as in years gone by, speaks to deeper, more important things than ivy style clothes (which don't really matter in the grand scheme of things).
Could it be, whisper it, that Drake's business model is just a wee bit too greedy, and certainly rather cynical..? Margins are clearly loaded by an extra 20% on most items. Skipper makes out the free market is all about the simple supply and demand theory, but modern capitalism works in a much more devious way than older models. Clothing, how it is made and sold, is a hugely ethical issue. If we all just bought a good suit and wore it for decades until it wore out, or repaired our shirts and shoes and kept things and treasured them, as very much used to be the case, the system would fall. It depends on our addictions, fuels them, markets to them, exploits our vulnerabilities. The very medium we are using to communicate here is a big part of the problem. Face it - we are all part of the problem. We are all addicts.
''We are all addicts....'' On the 12 step program to quit the button-down.
'''...wore it for decades until it wore out...''
Essentially, that's my mission and has been for quite sometime. I've C&J's shoes from the mid-1990s, Lacoste polos from 20 years ago, etc. When it comes to shirting, you can't beat in terms of quality of construction and cloth, T&A's. The premium is mega, quite unaffordable now. Not really Ivy clobber, but some good madras inspired stuff and some Oxford cloth that they call something else for some reason. Getting towards half a grand for a shirt is totally ridiculous. But they will last for nearly ever.
Drakes strike me as a Harry Stedmanish now which is no bad thing necessarily.
Mercer & Sons did get the cost to quality ratio right for a time. Alas exchange rates.
Tworussellstreet:"Skipper makes out the free market is all about the simple supply and demand theory, but modern capitalism works in a much more devious way than older models."
No, he doesn't. He gave a few (correct) reasons out of many. In addition, he certainly does not need any tutoring on the subject of economy/capitalism.
colin: "I agree we should not buy clothes that are dirt cheap as this obviously reinforces poverty wages and worse. Yet their Shetlands are £250 odd, which is a doubling of what we know they cost elsewhere for made in Scotland (same manufacturers and workers). Likewise, we know made in London shirts for John Simons are between £90-£130, yet their shirts are £200+"
In order not to be misunderstood: I consider these prices for RTW clothing to be excessive and would never pay this price for a Shetland or a shirt because it is proven to be hopelessly overpriced.
Basically, I was referring to reasonable prices, which in most cases cannot be low for good reasons.
Their factory shop near Old Street was well-priced, but the fit always to slim for me so never actually bought anything. Friends of mine did well there. They appear to have closed it.
Used to have great ties then they started branching out...
''Used to have great ties then they started branching out...''
Wore one of their shantung ties for annual meeting yesterday - last time held 3 years ago. It was good to catch up with some associates. The tie looked great with a beaming white button down and doeskin blazer. Happy days again.
Drakes have indeed branched out at the expense of their tie range.
A few rarer colour schemes and stripes on their button-downs. Similar price to T&A a couple of years ago, before they went super-nova.