I was recently confined to bed with a serious case of man-flu.
To bide away the time I travelled back in time to the very start of the images posted on the John Simons Facebook page - November 2010. Whilst I can't claim to have found a cure for the common cold it did bring a smile to my face.
A few observations to share:
When Chiltern Street opened the FB page featured lots of stylistic reference images. Similar to the ones on the old website. They're really a superb collection and worthy of finding a permanent home in print. A particular favourite is one from June 2012 featuring a large number of Ivy clad chaps behind a scooter.- entitled The John Simons team commute to work. The usual collection of musicians and actors are also featured but it's good to see them in a single resource. They make for a wonderful melting pot of ideas.
The early Chiltern Street merchandise was exceptionally strong. As well as Keydge you will find images of a great selection of shirts and shoes. In those days the shirt selection looks a lot more varied than now and there was also a lot more branded merchandise. Scotch grain loafers from Allen Edmonds and Florsheim are of particular interest. Both sadly no longer available.
Facebook also reminds me of some of the limited stock items I missed out on. There are far too many to mention but one highlight ,that some of you might remember, was a G4 collaboration between Baracuta and Harris tweed. A lovely tweed with pink windowpane check.
Chiltern Street also carried on the Pendleton tradition. Rather than just board shirts there are some lovely madras check Seaside shirts. I purchased a few of these and they're good quality.
You'll also find some interesting DuckHead imagery. I remember Jeff Garret wearing the best pair of chinos I've ever seen. I asked him whose they were and when he responded DuckHead I initially thought he was being rude.
Jazz music has always played a key role in the John Simons experience and the evolution of the Monday Morning Music spot makes for a good playlist.
Overall the images help reinforce the idea of the timeless nature of Ivy style.
There are a number of old Ivy hands on here who will always be in love with Russell Street or Hill Rise. Genuine nostalgia - the pain from an old wound - the lingering memories of never forgotten first loves.
I think now after 12 years Chiltern Street can enter that pantheon of great stores
Definitely think that Chiltern Street can be included in the pantheon of great stores.
I've always thought that the timeless nature of the clothes was the most important aspect of the Ivy look. Sadly, it seems that to younger generations this is not recognised. Or am I being pessimistic?
I came to JS in 1986, a trip to 2 Russell Street on a hot sticky day that blew my mind. The shop was amazing, and the guys working there just great to talk to and be with. John had put together a look, a vibe, that has stayed with me forever. Nothing elsewhere has ever come close. The old Ralph shop on Bond Street was impressive, but cold and intimidating, and a million miles away from the kindness and clubiness of John Simons. The shop dipped in its final years as John's enthusiasm waned, so the new shop on Chiltern Street was a spectacular return to form. It is a delightful shop, and Paul is a sweet and knowledgeable chap, but I miss John and the old crew. 2 Russell Street just had something very special about it. I also spent time working part-time in The Ivy Shop Richmond from 1986 to 1991. This shop still had an aura about it, with big personalities working there and some superb clothes, but its heyday was long gone. I could still sense though why it had been such a special place for Ivyists of earlier generations.
^ I think this is a really interesting point about JS.
There is definitely a different aesthetic between what John created and say the traditional American retailers of the look such as Press, Brooks or Andover.
In my mind I think of John Simons as having a wider approach. It's kind of Ivy+. Ivy plus French workwear, Americana like board shirts and Reyn Spooner and Ivy plus interesting vintage.
The one big thing I remember from Russell Street, that I feel has been forgotten in the mists of time, is the width of the merchandise in such a small shop.
I'll expand on what I mean. In the early Eighties you often found that clothes shops would be strong in a certain area of your wardrobe requirements. You'd know a place for good suits and ties but it would probably be poor for casual clothes or things you'd wear at the weekend. You had to shop around more but there were far more interesting shops to go to.
I remember in the West End you had Woodhouse that although shocked a few suits was more about high fashion casual wear. Whereas Herbie Frogg on Bond Street was superb for suits but carried little else. There were a few places in Soho that carried great French and Italian casual brands like Fiorruci, Chevignon and Replay but stayed well away from tailoring.
When I first visited RS there was everything from deck shoes and chunky sweatshirts through to tweed jackets and raincoats all in one place. Compared to modern clothes retailing that adopts the less is more approach RS was so full of merchandise it was sometimes difficult to see what was new.
Due to my location, financial circumstances and record-buying obsession I didn't visit Covent Garden enough. But on the few times I was solvent and could remember where it was I ended up with some nice things.
Another thing about the old JS shops is that were not just about clothes. It was a kind of outlook, a way of being. To a provincial boy like me I saw it as very metropolitan, a broader, less aggressive way of carrying yourself. Scousers like to think they know it all, but it's a very macho way of being, very blokey. Here was a place where you shared a passion for clothes, music, films, art, TV, football, whatever really and it was kind and inclusive. There was a lack of competitiveness. A more gentle way of being if you like, but very clued-in, and knowing, rooted in post-war British culture and, in a hard to define way, something of John's Jewish roots and ways of talking and interacting. For me it was an education in manners. The natural, soft nature of the clothes and the look seemed to dovetail with a sensibility. It's for these reasons I think people have this affection for his shops, and for him as an individual.
For older posters it was just a shop.
Late 60s they had a roaring trade. You looked in the window, went in, bought and left so they could serve the next customer. No shooting the breeze with the salespeople.
I did not know who John Simons was until the internet arrived. I did not know The Squire Shop and Ivy Shop were owned by the same people.
Well they made a film about him, so it's not just me being a soppy old git about JS. Many agree with me. I guess Kingy's generation just wanted the sharpest clobber of the day and The Ivy and Squire Shops sold the real deal. It's a different mentality, a different era. I was born in '64 so was piecing together my own version of what this whole look was all about. I can only say that a day in 2 Russell Street in 1986 was a serious education and broadening of horizons.
I like the vibe in the Chiltern Street area a lot. John Simons latest incarnation sits really comfortably with the environment.
Just like Covent Garden in its pre-tourist days.
Monocle cafe, Trunk, New and Lingwood, Rubens around the corner on Baker Street and the arty newsagent all provide a certain panache. I haven't been to the Firehouse but I appreciate its appeal.
Bond Street on the other hand is slowly being ruined by the pedestrianisation scheme.
I have never been in Cadenhead whisky shop a few doors down. My pal dismissed their tastings as basic bottlings but looking online they have quite an interesting offering on 2 February.
There was an ordinary cafe at the Northern end of Chiltern street and the pub round the corner that Jim used to frequent. Other than that it's not really establishments I would frequent.
^ Blandfords Cafe was a cabbie’s stop off and used to do a decent breakfast, now replaced by a la de da pizza place that I wouldn’t bother with. The Italian place opposite JS does nice coffee, authentic paninis and pasta.
The Barley Mow’s interior is original and untouched and they usually have some nice beers on.
Last edited by FlatSixC (2023-01-26 13:45:30)
I am not sure Chiltern Street ever smelt of rotting vegetables like Covent Garden when it was still a market.
The Borough market used to be great when it was a proper market -not just streetfood and upmarket nosh Decent pubs in a deserted area where you could still get a seat on a Friday night. No retail establishments nearby though.
You could run across the river from Cheapside and have a crafty lunchtime pint and a doorstep sandwich without fear of bumping into colleagues you did not want to see.
I well remember the crafty lunchtime pint. Back in 70/80s it was always a question of avoiding the pubs that your bosses would use. Drinking in a pub of a lunchtime was quite commonplace back then.
Working in Advertising in the Eighties often meant a liquid lunch.
Everyone on a Friday lunchtime would be down the pub. Lunchtime would only end when your line manager had finished his drink.
The rest of the week you'd be out with clients.
Although we all drank like fishes the work continued in the afternoon and there would be no let-up.
It's funny talking to youngsters now they think that because we drank we didn't work hard. You could often achieve quite a lot through buying someone a pint and having a chat.
There weren't the internal meetings, company days-out and all the internal culture nonsense that permeates so many businesses nowadays. Therefore, the pub created level playing field and a place to learn.