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#451 2023-02-20 12:33:36

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I agree with Colin that the new chinos dont look amazing in the photos. The regular fit chinos at £35 from Uniqlo are at least as good, and probably better.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#452 2023-02-21 01:21:09

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The FOB chinos look good but at £220 that’s expensive for chinos, like Robbie I’ve been pleased with my £34.90 Uniqlo chinos, I think they have a new ( lighter) shade of beige/khaki on the website,

 

#453 2023-02-21 03:33:03

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I saw the lighter shade chinos in the Uniqlo shop. I was nearly tempted but then I remembered I have a few lighter shade chinos that I hardly wear. I have the other 3 shades from Uniqlo. All made in Vietnam.

Incidentally my local alterations shop closed down. I went to another place, they looked me up and down, and said £10 for shortening chinos. I gave a cheeky 'do l look like I'm made of money' and the tough, rough old east end woman just laughed. When I collected them she charged me £8. Result. Then my old cousin told me a place in Sarfend only charges £6.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#454 2023-02-21 09:01:10

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Despite my bitching and moaning yesterday, I've now gritted my teeth and ordered a pair of the Rancourt. Also a pair of the buckle back chinos, so I'll report back in due course.

 

#455 2023-02-22 18:35:51

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The buckle back chinos look good. You can't go wrong with green pants. Well, a very light olive green isn't good.

 

#456 2023-03-01 02:38:19

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Firstly, I had to check it wasn't April fools due to the lapels on the flannel suit. Lovely looking cloth but Heathrow are considering using that jacket as the new runway...

On the chinos; stick to the Uniqlo, I wont be sending the ones I bought back but after much consideration, I'm less than clear as to how they're justifying asking over a hundred quid for them. Very light, summer weight cloth that doesn't really drape as you'd expect a pair of chinos to and while the quality is OK, I don't think it's realistically any better than the similar pair of Uniqlo chinos I have. JS Chinos made in India too, if you were unaware.

The Rancourt grain loafers though.. Absolute things of beauty and worth the small fortune in import costs.

 

#457 2023-03-01 03:06:56

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I was shocked when I saw the new suit on offer from JS. I had a similar suit in 1980 and I'm not sure I liked it even back then. Is March 1st the new April 1st?


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#458 2023-03-01 03:21:26

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I saw that suit, the lapels did look odd, but maybe they'll look different from another angle, didn't like the front darts with the patch pockets, be interesting to see what the price is, I'd estimate £850,
Tim - thanks for your comments re the JS chinos, I thought they'd be similar quality to the Uniqlo but reasoned Uniqlo are making zillions of pairs so they could offer the ( very) low price, I'm thinking of buying some of the Rancourt grain loafers and putting them in a display case in my study !

 

#459 2023-03-01 03:58:09

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I was surprised to see the flannel suit posted by Chiltern St, given the casual nature of their recent offerings and the seeming general lack of interest amongst men in dressing even semi formally. Will be interesting to see it ‘in the cloth’ and how the lapels actually sit in wear. I hope it’s a success.

 

#460 2023-03-01 06:34:55

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1366

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Suspect the fez would be easier to wear!

 

#461 2023-03-01 07:24:14

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

HaHa don't mention the fez. I've seen that it has made a re-appearance.

Can't be an easy item to shift!


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#462 2023-03-01 10:02:44

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

^Tim,

I hope you'll be really pleased with the Rancourt loafers.

I've recently bought both the grain beef-rolls and the burgundy penny. And here is the simple explanation to my splurge:

Good traditional, US Made loafers are no longer that easy to get hold of. Even during two trips stateside last year I didn't see anything. AE no longer do a trad loafer, Bass wasn't available in bricks and mortar stores, Cole Haan no longer make the pinch loafers and Florsheim Berkeleys have changed the shape to accommodate a rubber soul.

People can hunt around online and I'm sure you'll find loafers from Quoddy and Oak Street but can they try them on and easily return?

Yes, you're 100% right the Rancourt are expensive but with care they'll last. Get some decent trees and creams.

The reality is the things we like, that used to be so plentiful, are now very niche. You have to get it while you can.

 

#463 2023-03-07 04:39:19

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I see that JS is selling Baracuta Harringtons again. £340. I still have one from the Covent Garden shop and a couple from successful TKMaxx hunting expeditions. I wonder if there is still a market for these. Come to think of it only the other day I thought a navy Harrington (which I don't have) would go well with what I was wearing.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#464 2023-03-08 00:48:48

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I was surprised to see the Baracuta’s on the JS website considering how they are widely available not least from Baracuta direct. Perhaps there are some guys who will like the ‘ history ‘ of JS/ Baracuta and buy from the shop. Sean told me on my last visit to 46CS around October time that they were going to restock Harrington’s I assumed it would be their own branding or something a bit more unusual than the Baracutas at their eye watering price !

 

#465 2023-03-08 03:10:23

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

on the FB page today there's a NOS Golden Bear leather harrington, £950'ish, it looks a very nice jacket if that's your thing, there's a photo of the label, it says JSIMONSEXP, Mar30/07, so made for JS Russell St, US Export, in 2007, so I'm wondering where the jacket has been since 2007 ? Interesting....

 

#466 2023-03-08 04:23:27

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

A mate of mine turned up at my flat the other week wearing a RAF sheepskin flying jacket. He said he dug it out of the loft and hadn't worn it for 35 odd years. I said it must be worth £1000. A few weeks later there is one for sale at £1950 on the JS FB page! I tried it on and it weighed a ton!


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#467 2023-03-08 09:32:56

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The Golden Bear looks really nice but it's very expensive in comparison to say a suede G9 on the Baracuta website.

I appreciate it's not comparing apples with apples but it goes to show what alternatives there are if you're in the market for a luxury wind cheater

 

#468 2023-03-08 10:05:48

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

In the 80s Golden Bear Harringtons, and similar styles, in suede and leather, were always well stocked at 2 Russell Street. It was truly a Golden Age of Ivy, only we didn't realise it.  You had an abundance of Made in USA Bass, Sebago, Walkover, American Gentleman, Florsheim, Sero Shirts, BD Baggies, Troy Guild, Russell Athletic, Fruit Of The Loom, Canterbury belts, Halrin, Duckhead, Dickies, Haspel, Linet, Willis & Geiger, Royce socks.... and all the other makers I've forgotten about. Magical stuff. By 2000 most of it had gone - neoliberal greed leading to off-shoring and the eventual death of mass-market quality and proper democratic, accessible American style.

 

#469 2023-03-08 18:20:35

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

^That was a strange time and in the UK it was the Blair/Brown gang who accelerated it. Somehow we were all going to thrive in societies where nobody made anything and we provided services and sold insurance to each other. Whilst the hard graft was done somewhere else over the horizon. Now we are where we are. The good stuff gets ever less and harder to find. We look to Japan and the expensive niche to find the good stuff.

 

#470 2023-03-09 02:01:20

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I wouldn't blame the Blair government. Sure, they did nothing to arrest the shift to off-shoring and the prioritisation of shareholder dividend over worker/consumer needs, but Reaganomics/Thatcherism had initiated this process of Greed Is Good over an 18 year period before Labour finally won an election in 1997. In the UK there are a few encouraging symbols of resistance - the Northampton shoe industry (some of course now foreign owned), knitwear manufacturers like John Smedley, and the great work of Patrick Grant at Community Clothing, but people have got used to cheap clothing, few buy for the long-term investment, and knowledge about maintenance and repair of good clothes has largely disappeared. I specialise in gloomy, smart-arse interjections like this don't I, but it's true - how do you turn all this around, go back to the old ways when you have Amazon, the Internet, greed, pestilence and ignorance all around you..?!

 

#471 2023-03-09 03:19:20

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

2RS - so very true and we might as well all top ourselves immediately. Now get yourself into Spoons for a couple of Stellas you miserable old bugger!

 

#472 2023-03-09 04:54:21

oxford cloth button down
Member
Posts: 1302

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Curious if the West Point chinos were Jack Donnelly's? I was recently checking out his offerings when I saw a product with the same name mentioned here.

https://jackdonnelly.com/products/west-point-twill-khaki-m3-tapered

 

#473 2023-03-09 05:13:01

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Yes, 2RS come and join me in the Last Post Southend. I'm sitting near the toilets. Ha


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#474 2023-03-09 05:37:16

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

OCBD - ‘ Curious if the West Point chinos were Jack Donnelly's? I was recently checking out his offerings when I saw a product with the same name mentioned here.

https://jackdonnelly.com/products/west-point-twill-khaki-m3-tapered.  ‘

They look like good chinos. I notice they use the ‘M’ designation for the different cuts. I once bought a pair of Bill’s Khakis M3 chinos in the Andover Shop, Cambridge MA when they were good, I’ve still got them somewhere. Anyone know where the M3 etc designations come from?

 

#475 2023-03-09 16:24:04

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The FOB's are Made In Japan whilst I think the JD is Japanese fabric but cut and sawn in the US. I compared the coin pocket detail on both trousers and it looks different.

I have a pair of JD's. Great heavier weight chino but needed quite a lot of tapering. He now does a new Ivy fit but as with everything the price has increased.

My understanding is Bills M = model.

M1 was their original fit. M3 are my favourites as they more tailored. Over the years  I have had a number pairs covering chamois cloth, poplin, cords,  stretch twill, vintage twill and moleskin.All have been superb. The majority new, old stock secured on Ebay. They also did a M4 but I've never seen these in the flesh.

The quality is right up there and as they're constructed as trousers rather than jeans they have allocation for tailoring the waist and seat.

 

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