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#1 2023-01-16 08:20:25

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

I'm shortly off to Paris for a few days - en famille.

Has anyone any recommendations to share - bars, shops or restaurants. I'm staying in the Marias.

It been about four years since my last visit. Sadly there's no longer J Keydge to hunt down.

Thoughts so far are Paraboot Brighton loafers and a Hartford pocket polo shirt.

 

#2 2023-01-17 14:36:43

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Sorry it’s only a link because I can’t make any useful suggestions myself.
https://www.permanentstyle.com/2021/05/what-is-french-ivy.html

 

#3 2023-01-17 15:48:34

Rivella
Member
Posts: 37

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

For restaurants check the Bib Gourmand recommendations by the Guide Michelin. They're mid-range places with good value for money. I've eaten in dozens of them all over Europe and have hardly ever been disappointed.

Be sure to visit one of the larger J.M Weston stores. There are many interesting stores in Paris though I'm not sure about their Ivy credentials. There is a store called Artumes & Co. whose jackets I find quite interesting, same can be said for Chato Lufsen who've carried on a bit of Arny's legacy. If vintage is of interest Chato also carry some items and Brut also have many interesting pieces. There is a considerable vintage scene but I'm afraid I can't point you to any names.

Last edited by Rivella (2023-01-17 15:49:32)

 

#4 2023-01-18 09:00:58

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Many thanks chaps.

 

#5 2023-01-19 05:34:10

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1366

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

I remember picking up a wonderful Gentry sack from a Parisian vintage shop before. Obviously hit and miss but there may be a bit of good fortune if you look.

There is a high-end shop that sells bespoke J Keydge - I need to dig out the name. But could be worth a glance?

Straight from the owner:

The store I mentioned is  "jeanmanuelmoreau" (you may get more on instagram) address 3 rue Chambiges PARIS 8° near Av Montaigne.

 

#6 2023-01-23 07:20:21

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Thanks Colin.

Really appreciate the info. Don't think they do Keydge  anymore. A shame

 

#7 2023-03-08 04:53:17

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

So Paris was superb.

A few observations.

Quite a few well dressed older guys over there. Chunky soled Paraboots, long tweed overcoats and heavy cords. All wearing scarves in various styles.

There are still a large number of independent menswear stores. Nothing caught my eye specifically though.

Paraboot have at least three stand alone stores in the city centre. Surprisingly their shoes were more expensive there than in the UK- based upon a parity exchange rate.

Came across a stand alone Sebago shop that had a selection of clothes as well as their usual shoes. Great Ivy correct Madras shirt  from last season but only small sizes left.

Visited Hartford - an old brand from Russell Street days. Their style is exceptionally slim fit. Although they do an Ivy jacket they didn't have any in the store I visited. Managed to get a nice pocket polo though.

As in London there were a number of Vintage style stores. My daughter visited a few and was shocked by what now passes for vintage and also the prices.

Ran out of time to visit Anomotica.

One of the old Keydge stockists now does a similar jacket but with slimmer lapels. Plan to find out more.

Also, came across a lovely Lacoste boutique that had some great knitwear

 

#8 2023-03-08 07:16:44

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Glad you enjoyed Paris Alvey, we’re off there at the end of the month. If it doesn’t bloody warm up by then I’ll be fitting in by wearing  chunky Paraboots, long tweed overcoat and scarf as well.

But I would like to be wearing loafers, wheat coloured jeans, suede Burberry harrington and Tootal with Persol shades in the warm spring sunshine.

Last edited by FlatSixC (2023-03-08 07:19:10)

 

#9 2023-03-08 09:29:41

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

^ I'm loving the sound of the outfit. Is the Burberry a golfer style jacket?

The place I wanted to check out was Michel Axel as I'm sure they do a sack style jacket and bright shetland style knits. Their insta feed provides occasional inspiration.

If you get chance check out the Paraboot Adonis with the thin rubber sole. It's a Weston split toe style loafer that's available in a lovely mid brown shade. Nothing like the heavy sole stuff we get over here.

 

#10 2023-03-08 10:10:21

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

I recall French students wearing brightly coloured fluffy Burlington argyles with loafers and rolled up jeans in the 80s, in both Paris, and London near the Lycee in South Ken - a great look I often think back to. It was called BCBG, not French Ivy, which is a term largely concocted by Style Council fans and Jason Jules.

 

#11 2023-03-08 10:23:44

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Bon Chic, Bon Genre - a style I find fascinating, although there's so little documented about it sadly. Wealthy urban French (Parisians, lets be fair..) putting their own twist on the American and English preppy (inverted commas) looks. There's a 40-second snippet in one of the Clive James Postcards from.. Episodes that has only lent fuel to my fire in trying to find photographic examples of this style, beyond the era when Paul Weller had shares in Brylcream.

 

#12 2023-03-08 10:26:46

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=przhiqnhOdI&t=556s Starts at the 10 minute mark.

 

#13 2023-03-08 11:02:59

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

I always thought that the Village Gate (where I shopped mid to late 70s?) represented a departure from American Ivy towards a more continental French/Italian look (Scottish knitwear) although I think from memory the footwear on offer remained American.

Does the Lacoste boutique sell exclusively made in France clothes?


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#14 2023-03-08 11:22:37

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Alvey - ‘ I'm loving the sound of the outfit. Is the Burberry a golfer style jacket?’

It’s an old Burberry’s G4 type harrington with a knit collar, cuffs and waistband in a honey colour suede. Quite low key but great quality. It was a ‘hardly worn’ type buy on eBay a couple of years ago, one of those great purchases where it fits you well and turns out to be as good as the seller says it is.

In fact I guess it’s more of a varsity jacket. Something like this:
https://www.aeroleatherclothing.com/mens/1950s-college-jacket/mto002

 

#15 2023-03-09 01:11:41

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1366

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

"Chunky soled Paraboots, long tweed overcoats and heavy cords. All wearing scarves in various styles" - wonderful

Would like to hear more about the Keydge-alike if you discover anything, too!

 

#16 2023-03-09 02:06:10

Tworussellstreet
Member
Posts: 599

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Le Style Anglais, BCBG was very visible on the streets of Paris in the 80s, likewise across Italy. It's diluted now, but still visible. It was as much English as American - viz stores like Old England in Paris. British shoes, British knitwear, Burberrys, Barbour - that whole schtick.

 

#17 2023-03-09 03:35:58

West Indian Limes
Member
Posts: 50

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Tim, it´s always good fun to scroll through the "BCBG book" by Thierry Mantoux, especially the fashion chapters. It´s all there: the 501s, the Weston 180s, the Aldens, Church´s brogues, Sebago boat shoes, the Burlington socks, Burberry macs, Lacoste of course ...

 

#18 2023-03-09 16:08:40

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

FlatSix. Just been on the Aero site. Love the jacket. Very elegant. Yes more Varsity than Harrington.

Robbie - no the Lacoste boutique covered all bases. I went in specifically looking for a cardigan. Hopefully cheaper than the UK. Sadly they didn't have the version I was looking for but had some other nice knits.

Must admit I'm not convinced by this notion of French Ivy. Like Russell Street says I remember in the Eighties there was a drive towards classic menswear generally. A move away from synthetic fibres towards classic silhouettes and nostalgia.  I always felt that the three books - Sloane Rangers, BCBG and Prep Handbook whilst a bit of a piss take helped promote a compelling alternative to the high street/high fashion end of the market.

I visited Old England in the late nineties. Massive store with loads of traditional English brands. Very expensive given the options the locals had at the time. Men in Paris dressed exceptionally well at the time.

I do love the early Style Council a Paris/ Cafe Blu style. I genuinely think Weller nailed-it. That great herringbone Armani overcoat, tassel Weejuns, white 501's, fly font Mac, red Lacoste cardigan, mauve Smedley polo and the college scarf. I hated the tonik mod suits and too narrow trousers though. It felt a contradiction to the relaxed casual wear.

 

#19 2023-03-10 21:04:17

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

''I do love the early Style Council a Paris/ Cafe Blu style. I genuinely think Weller nailed-it. That great herringbone Armani overcoat, tassel Weejuns, white 501's, fly font Mac, red Lacoste cardigan, mauve Smedley polo and the college scarf.''

Oh yes, indeed, along with Mick Talbot. All those mega 12''s and I remember Lenny Henry in a series saying in a slight, but not quite piss take, that he wanted to be an apprentice member of TSC. Happy days!

The world was opening up and we could still nonchalantly, although I had only been to Spain (the once) that I was a sophisticated European in tastes. Eclectic and yet, still from the English suburbs. Weller captured something of that zeitgeist.

I've been long enough away for England to seem very exotic to me now. Like being on holiday. Never ever thought that would be the case. It's weird. I'm the alien now.

 

#20 2023-03-11 07:02:57

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Used to tag on a couple of days on to work trips to Paris.

Bexley calf leather, Goodyear welted shoes in black were the bargain. They offered loafers and plain caps if you wanted Ivy. Not much good these days though.  Paris was a good place for scoff though. Colleagues in France were into that type of thing.

I also noted that alcohol was available in the staff restaurant and at meetings. Not the same as the glory days of lunchtime drinking in the UK; but not the puritanical approach to alcohol as a mortal sin/sacking offence either.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#21 2023-03-13 19:41:20

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

^A Paris business trip was always good for fine dining at lunch time complete with good wines. You can't fault it.

Last business trip there was when the first lockdowns were starting, it was scary, as it all started to shut down and all the Covid signs on the motorways. Got stopped on crossing the border there for the first time by the militarized police seemingly a whole platoon of them. At the same time, a mucca of mine was getting out of Paris and he said it was like escape from New York.

 

#22 2023-03-14 05:35:07

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

DuLouz yes the early eighties had a sense that the bad old, strike ridden days of polyester were behind us. European rail cards and the hovercraft service made getting into Europe easier and cheaper than before.

There were also loads of great European non-designer brands available in the UK like Replay, Henry Cottons, New Man and Chevignon.

Around 1980, I went on a school trip to Northern Italy. Four schools from all over England staying near to Milan. The Scousers were by far the best dressed guys I had ever scene - Lois jumbo cords in every colour under the sun, Kickers in navy blue and waffle knit cardigans in burgundy and navy blue.

I have nothing but fond recollections about the Style Council.The one thing I clearly remembered at the time was a lot was made of Paul Weller redefining himself and Mod but to be honest my friends and I felt he had only caught up with what was going on.

I came from the soul scene that had always had a strong fashion element to it. As early as the late Seventies continental influences such as Fiorrucci jeans had been mixed with American stuff like varsity jackets and heavy sweatshirts. We didn't know the terms preppy or Ivy but looked at American clothing as being like the music - it was all very cool.

 

#23 2023-03-28 06:18:19

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Well, in view of the current shenanigans in Paris we have shelved our Easter trip there and put it off until July. They may have guillotined Macron by then!

Last edited by FlatSixC (2023-03-28 06:18:49)

 

#24 2023-03-28 06:20:56

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

My nephew is in Paris for a work trip and he sent the family site a picture of rubbish piled up high, in the street. He said he expected it to be set alight sometime today.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#25 2023-11-04 13:36:30

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 331

Re: PARIS...THE SEARCH FOR FRENCH IVY

Mrs Flat and I just had a few days in the City of Light. The main pursuit was galleries and modernist architecture so I didn’t spend much time scouting for clothes, however there was one visit to a Paraboot store. I was trying on the Rheims loafers, but the jury’s out on them. Plus, as Alvey has previously reported, they are cheaper in the UK. Very little Ivy wearing spotted, although I think French men are still much better dressed than their British counterparts, they haven’t slumped into the sportswear trough to the same extent, or got as fat. Our impression is that the French are perhaps less swayed by fashion trends and prefer to make their own looks. Burberry style double breasted trench raincoats remain a favourite for both sexes and I am resolved to make the most of mine this winter, even though I have a lurking suspicion that it is a fake- but its a good one if it is.  It was a pleasure to see young men wearing trench coats stylishly and old men in white jeans without a trace of self consciousness. We travel light so I was mainly in Chambray button downs, a brown JS herringbone jacket, cords or jeans, a Grenfell mac and Paraboots or dessies.
It pissed down most of the time. Has anyone found a telescopic umbrella that doesn’t self destruct on the second use?

 

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