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#476 2023-03-20 07:20:59

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I noticed last week the suede flight jacket.

Looks superb. A different take on the Harrington. Similar to the Valstar suede jacket.

Was hoping to get to London at the end of the month but as with everything else at the moment the train drivers will be on strike.

 

#477 2023-03-20 17:50:24

Dulouz
Member
Posts: 196

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

There's a lot of good flight and bomber jackets about at the moment. I like this from RRL, got a bit of wear to it, in a good way:

https://www.ralphlauren.nl/en/twill-flight-jacket-3616850855683.html?utm_subchannel=shopping&utm_source=google&utm_medium=paidshopping&utm_campaign=non_model&utm_term=pmax&utm_content=crid_campaign18377669884_adgroup_tid_pid3616850855683&gclid=EAIaIQobChMInKzotNjr_QIVMgWiAx3gHw16EAQYASABEgJ5i_D_BwE

 

#478 2023-03-21 07:42:08

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Anything RRL is usually superb quality.

Sadly the cost reflects this.

 

#479 2023-03-28 05:32:47

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

The new shirts look enticing. It's good to see that JS continues to try new ideas under their own brand.

I like the look of the pink seersucker pop-over.

A few years ago I purchased a Press seersucker shirt with a blue stripe. Sadly it looks too conventional - almost like a work shirt. Whereas a pop-over is a bit more interesting.

 

#480 2023-03-28 06:11:42

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

They are nice colours. I like the idea of popovers more than the actuality. To look good the wearer needs a trim profile (not me at present) and the shirt needs to fit well. Any excess cloth can lead to a baggy Denis Roussos effect, but they have to be slightly loose to facilitate getting the shirt on and off. I only really like them with shorts I think.

 

#481 2023-03-28 06:12:08

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I thought the JS shirts looked good as well but I've decided the next few shirts I buy will be from Jake.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#482 2023-03-28 07:47:22

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I wasn't a fan of the new camp-collar jobs on first glance but on third or fourth viewing, they're growing on me. I can well see a pink seersucker number in my future. As for today's sneak preview of their coming Madras offerings, I'm already lubricating my wallet big_smile

 

#483 2023-03-28 09:50:10

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I'm not a fan of the camp collar shirts but on a visit to Jake's workshop he showed me some prototype camp collar shirts, some in a linen/cotton mix. I thought, at the time, Nah, not for me but I have to admit that they are growing on me ,as well.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#484 2023-03-29 03:23:44

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I like a camp collar shirt, I've got 3 maybe 4, but IMO you can only wear them when the sun is shining,so limited chances of wearing , there seems to be plenty about the last couple of years, I like the ' cuban' ( ?) versions with the two front lower pockets, ideal for your untipped players and swan vesta's, the JS ones look nice, ( I know I'm getting old ),  but is it only me that thinks their prices are getting too much for the actual product ? I had one of the early madras, ( long gone now), probably 5-6 years ago and I think it was only around £55 -£65 full price which seemed a fair price, the new ones out on Friday will be double that I'm sure.... inflation eh....

 

#485 2023-03-29 05:47:49

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I don’t think I’ve ever paid less than a hundred quid for a JS shirt, at least from the new shop. Baggies in RS were 85 quid the last time I bought one, circa 2009/10 ish. I was paying 120 quid for a custom shirt back then, from a shirt maker on Windmill Street, so I don’t mind paying Jake 150 really, things haven’t gone up that much in 15 years!

 

#486 2023-03-30 03:46:23

Sid Ford
Member
Posts: 637

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Prices are an interesting topic. My tuppence worth:

Jake's: one/two man band, hand made to order, limited numbers of each shirt, so, to me, £150 seems about right
JS: (smallish) bulk buying from a manufacturer (possibly abroad as the shirts don't say 'Made In Eangland' like the jackets do), so £120-140 seems too much
Drake's: made in their own factory in UK, so £175 seems way too much
Kamakura, made in their own factory in Japan, so £100 approx seems good
Sadly, Brooks and J Press have such awful websites that they are impossible to buy from unless you have previously tried them on in person

Regardless, at the moment sales are my friend

 

#487 2023-03-30 05:30:35

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I tend to agree with Sid re prices on shirts.
The quality with a Jake made shirt compared with the JS shirt means that I'm prepared to pay extra for a Jake.
JS seems a little overpriced to me these days but I obviously still like the shop as it is the only place I know where I could go and be fully kitted out.
I didn't know that JS shirts don't say where they are made now.
I do know that Jake is concerned about quality control on shirt production if and when he expands his business


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#488 2023-03-30 10:12:39

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

My thoughts on the issue of pricing directly correlates to three factors: quality of finish, comfort and longevity. I don't mind paying more for shirts that will last or offer great comfort.

I have spent lots on RL  formal shirts and they have been exceptionally well made. After frequent laundering they have maintained their colours and shape. At the time they were about £90 each that was pretty expensive back then  - but it was worth it. As with all things Ralph the pricing appears all over the shop with shirts from £99 to £139.

The only shirt that is of a comparable quality to RL that I have purchased is Kamakura. Great fabrics, good details and well made. Not so keen on the 6 button placket as it comes untucked. I think for the quality they're cheap. For a £100 you get a very good shirt.

I haven't tried Jakes yet.

Personally I find J Press sports shirts are a good fit. The materials though are a bit variable. I have a few tartan shirts that look great after washing but a pink gingham that creases-up far too quickly. I only get them on my travels as the postage and duties are silly. At roughly £120 for a made in the USA shirt with all the ivy details they're good value compared to other brands.

I have a few Drakes shirts that I have purchased in the sales. Not impressed. The fit is way off. The cost is stupid and there have been issues with the collars ending up mis-shaped. I won't be rushing back. Customer service at their old store was poor too.

Brooks collar roll is great but their Regent fit is an odd shirt as it tapers across the middle whilst being roomy on the shoulders and chest. I would like to try the new OCBD before passing comment. The old USA site always had deals so you could pick up something relatively cheaply.

Onto John Simons shirts: Their madras cloth from last year was superb.Much nicer than previous. Not sure what they'll cost this year. Sadly as with most things they'll probably increase. Although the linen is expensive at £160 I noticed they're using Albini fabric from Italy that from experience is very good but pricey. I'm not a fan of the size of the collar but at £120 for an OCBD I think that is slightly expensive considering there are no fine details like the make of buttons.

 

#489 2023-03-31 01:02:13

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

^ I used to taper across the middle and be roomy around the chest and shoulders, now I’m just roomy.

 

#490 2023-03-31 04:23:09

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I've gone for Peraza (navy, grey and red) and Kenton (green, blue, white) in the Madras. Lot's of discussion about pricing now. I don't think 120 quid off the rack for something that fits our bill (inverted commas on our!) is too outlandish personally. You'll pay that for a Ralphy boy and more now and unlike some, I've never been that sold on his quality and personally I can't abide that wee pony. I've always struggled to find RL stuff without the logo however. 160 quid for the seersucker numbers do feel like a knock, quality fabric or no.
It makes Jake seem cheap to be honest. I had put in an order for another shirt from him but he probably needs a gentle reminder in a weeks time when my wallet has recovered slightly!
I hope he continues to find success and expands - he's a very good head on his shoulders though, so I can't imagine it will be too rapidly or without a great deal of thought and consideration.

 

#491 2023-03-31 07:54:52

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

One point to make is that if you buy a JS shirt you are getting a unique off the peg item that has been conceived through a loving Ivy relationship and produced ethically in small numbers. Unless you are loafing around Chiltern St it’s unlikely that you will see anyone else wearing one.

 

#492 2023-04-01 03:05:59

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1365

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

I see the new JS Madras shirts are online. Can see why they will sell quickly. I must admit, I'm not wholly convinced. I had to send my previous ones back - the collar was somewhat too big and wasn't convinced on the Madras colours (I assume the would not fade much and that's part of the appeal). But I'm sure others will disagree.

Seersuckers look nice, so too the others. But think I prefer the ivy shirt uni stripes (point taken about Jake's being superior, but I do like a trimmer fit sometimes and they are still made in England).

Still love my ivy jacket, though and will keep an eye out for new things every once in a while

Last edited by colin (2023-04-01 03:06:19)

 

#493 2023-04-03 07:40:04

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Was in London on Saturday for an alcohol fuelled B'day trip. Estrella Galicia washed down with Rose Cava.

JS was visited prior to Lunch to avoid making any costly mistakes/overspending under the influence.

I too purchased a Peraza madras together with the pink seersucker pop-over.

The seersucker they've used this season is far superior than previous that simply felt like a permanent crease nylon. The current shirt is exceptionally light weight as you'd expect. Lovely soft shade of pink.

Sadly the FOB chinos were a bit neat on me. Great fabric and a good cut.

The best item in there was the Baracuta suede flying jacket. They'd sold out of my size (42") otherwise I would have immediately purchased one. The colour, softness and button front make this an exceptional jacket at any price.

The JS buckle back chinos in blue (36") had sold out so settled for standard version. These will replace some earlier JS chinos that I've worn to death.

They also had a new Ivy jacket in what looks like a denim material. Interesting but not for me.

JS continues to delight. All the madras shirts were interesting. New Vetra is on the way and the Rancourts in grain or calf are a painful reminder of how good the old Made In The USA loafers were.

I also spotted a pile of Bills M1 Chinos. Most likely deadstock.

 

#494 2023-04-03 08:30:25

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4180

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

For me, Peraza is the pick of the Madras offerings. Chico a distant second.

For value seekers, old man's shop Peter Christian has its Madras half sleeves  at £25. No box pleat or third button, but I can live with that. I have both at full price £35.

Peter Christian are mostly for trahseez though.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#495 2023-04-03 11:36:48

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 780

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Alvey - I think Baracuta have the suede flying jackets on their website, nice looking jackets,

 

#496 2023-04-03 12:44:21

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1365

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Where the buckle back chinos good? Looked somewhat underwhelming I. The photos, but willing to be persuaded otherwise!!

 

#497 2023-04-03 14:38:13

Tim
Member
Posts: 289

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Worth adding that it’s quite hard to tell in the photos but the Peraza has a dark green running through it also. Really cracking in the flesh, delighted with mine which turned up earlier today.

 

#498 2023-04-04 04:33:49

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

^Colin

The JS chinos are really good. Soft lightweight cotton. I personally thought the blue or olive were the nicer colours.

With regards to buckle backs I think the small detail helps elevate the ubiquitous cotton trouser into something a bit different.

My understanding is that a lot of people are sizing up.

I appreciate that the Uniqlo chinos are liked by many on here. Personally I find Uniqlo quality very occasionally misses the mark. On merino knitwear they are superb but I've also had trousers that have been such poor quality that after a wash they became shapeless.

 

#499 2023-04-04 04:36:50

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

^ Stax

Many thanks for the heads-up.

Their website has every colour but the sandstone that I saw.

Seriously, I can not big-up these jackets enough. Everything about them was superb. I think the button closure rather than the zip together with the front pockets looked really good. I know Valstar do something similar but it's more expensive

 

#500 2023-04-04 04:40:42

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1365

Re: New In At Chiltern Street...

Thanks, AS - tempted by the navy or olive when money allows!

 

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