Like any decade it wasn't short of fashion disasters. Mullets, shoulder pads, logos on everything, Gaultier's men in skirts and Doc Martins. I'm sure we can all add to the list.
I came of age in the Eighties and therefore must admit to possibly having rose-tinted glasses about the decade.
Importantly though I remember a brief spell from about '81-84 where Americana was all the rage. Fuelled by images of Hollywood film stars like James Dean and jazz icons like Chet Baker a casual look emerged. Weejuns worn with Burlington socks, faded Levis, heavy duty sweatshirts from Russell or Champion, blousons including leather flight jackets, varsity jackets or pastel Harringtons. Slim fitting cardigans with a neat roll on the edge and short sleeve OCBD's. Knit ties, loafers and button down shirts worn with suits for business. The clothes weren't that easy to get hold. I guess this is where John Simons Covent Garden emporium comes into the mix
It didn't feel retro at the time. It was a rejection of the polyester, big hair and Brut 33 of the Seventies. Remember we didn't have plethora of menswear books or the internet as reference points. Things were pieced together more organically and was very much a British take on America.
The music like the clothes was imported - soul and jazz. As the UK soul scene got more influenced by hip-hop many on the scene started crate digging for straight ahead jazz and sixties soul. Kent started their 6T's compilations around this time and EMI eventually got wise to the interest in the Blue Note label. Young British graphic designer Simon Halfron being called upon to continue the tradition of great cover art.
The monthly Black Music magazine would highlight the jazz tunes that had become big in the clubs - Donald Byrd Jeanine, Oscar Pettiford Oscalypso and Art Blakey No Hey Problema. I must admit there was also a lot of new-found purists like Elms who tried to intellectualise the whole thing - and missed the point.
Great design was everywhere from new magazines, architecture and visually arresting graphics and ads. Terrence Conran stepped up a gear with restaurants, design agencies and shops.
By the mid eighties it had all changed. The demand for expensive Italian labels seemed to dominate. Designers and their logos dictated menswear trends until they eventually fell out of favour too.
Double breasted suits - but not in a Jacob Rees Mogg style.
They have not come back. Unlikely as all suits are disappearing.
Think the 80s was the last distinctive and modernist decade...a real vibe that something was happening.
Now the decades blend into one and the zeitgeist of our times feels restrictive despite increased wealth, access to travel and the ease of access to all things.
The silhouette of the 80s was magnificent, from high-rise pants to hair-styles. The bending of genders then seem to have more class from Boy George to the lesbian chic of Annie Lennox's hair. Trans was still exotic with the likes of Caroline Cossey now our political elites fawn over foreman steeplejacks self-declaring to those who need to tell us what their pronouns are as we're certainly not going to get it from looking at them.
As a Brit looking to America it was still something exciting and inspiring. We all hated Reagan and Thatcher, whilst loving the pop and common culture in both.
One thing for sure, by December 1989 it was over. The decade that ended right on time.
'One thing for sure, by December 1989 it was over. The decade that ended right on time'
I have to agree. The 90s was when the stasis began, House continued as a pale copy called Rave, Hip Hop degenerated into Rap, tracksuits into shellsuits
One of the big attributes of the Eighties was the mix and match of old styles worn in a contemporary manner.
By the end of the decade this was no longer the case.
From the Zoot suits of Blue Rondo A La Turk to the quiff and Heard it through the grapevine of the Levi's commercial.
The Levi's adverts captured the nostalgia for Motown and then you had the likes of Moonlighting which use to have lots of Stax soul in it. The Blues Brothers was a point of reference as too was Miami Vice. The mix and match went out very quickly in the 90s
Remember when U2's Achtung Baby! came out and I was extremely disappointed. Weller was out on his arse at the time too. The early 90s were just drab in comparison.
Took refuge in modern jazz at the time, Chet Baker, Charlie Parker, Tom Jobim, Snowboy and Don Pullen were big on my CD rotation. It was a good era for jazz reissues.
Think the 80s set-us-up ready for the information culture, but the early 90s was the doldrum before the nascent digital culture emerged.
Dulouz
Great observations. The jazz thing was massive wasn't it.
I think that it was a crossroads of the style press picking up on the look, the fashionable soul crowd getting disillusioned by the current crop of music coming out of the States and UK musicians looking to add something different to their sound.
Back then I probably spent as much money on music as I did on clothes. DJ and Promoter Paul Murphy opened a superb jazz record shop in the basement of the gay disco orientated Record Shack in Berwick Street. Rather than go for the obvious, pricey USA imports he specialised in trawling Europe for re-issues and current recordings of visiting US artists to Holland or Germany. Typically you would find something great for under a £5.
The only downside was you had to edge your way through a sea of lumberjack and biker clones on the ground floor who would be listening to ear splitting Hi-NRG sounds to get there. Once you entered through the door to the dimly-lit basement you would hear the majestic sounds of dance floor friendly hard bop, salsa and fusion.
Sadly it didn't last long. My understanding is he decided to knock everything on the head - DJ'ing, promoting gigs, his small record label and the shop. Gilles Peterson purchased a load of stuff from him.
I know many people talk with fondness about the old Rays, but in my book knowing both stores ,Paladin as it was known was as good an experience.
Peterson was good too in the 90s. You had that whole Rare Groove thing going on.
I have just read Eddie Pillars autobiography.
He mentions that mod- rare groove-Duffer crossover.
Highly recommended reading even if you were not a Mod.