I have three pairs of Trickers. None are the very agricultural brogues. Cordovan plain caps, a nice split toe derby and an Adelaide. The factory shop used to be managed by a very knowledgeable and helpful chap. Apparently other Northampton shoe firms are on slim profit margins as well. Folk are turning away from traditional footwear to cheaper casual shoes and trainers.
The smart trainer is now accepted business wear so is starting to really hurt formal shoe wearing. I've been in meetings recently with investment banks and private equity firms where everyone had them on in the client side.
Not surprised with Edward Green; and Trickers haven't made really great shoes for years, all of their good double soled models have been discontinued, and all the remaining ones are ugly. Northampton shoe firms have fallen way behind, and they have so much competition now from abroad that make better shoes. Lobb and C&J will survive because they have big names, the rest are in trouble. Barkers is another one on the rocks. It is sad that heritage brands are at risk, it should never have come to this.
fun videos to watch that talk about this subject
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1. Shoesnob podcast on youtube #6 (I think)
2. The bloke who sits in his backyard at a table on youtube (recent video)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2023-11-22 19:45:45)
It felt the end to me when these companies started putting tweed fabric and other coloured/patterned stuff in the shoe outer cut-outs. It's gimmicky and also bound to perish quickly.
Church's now charge £1000 for shoes with not very good leather. Shannon and Grafton models of old are gone. I bought plain black Oxfords in calf leather from the factory shop years ago when they were a good buy..
John Lobb are even more expensive. Chapels that I got in their factory shop are now £1500.
Crockett and Jones are still sound but no handgrade brogues to replace Clifford's. Pembrokes are dear for what they offer and are not handgrade.
Once these factories go they will not come back. The skills will disappear and start up costs would be prohibitive
Tweed and gimmicky shoes will only ever be a passing fad. There are no new sound styles just fashions.
Traditional shoes need traditional clothes. They don't match well with casual/ leisure style.
Very sad news about Trickers. Whilst not a customer I hate to see any British brand suffer.
I had a version of Pembroke made for me 14 years ago and they are still going strong. I call them my campaign shoes as they're double soled and have a storm welt, so they get regularly worn throughout the foul weather months.
I have both hand grade, including Clifford, and regular C&J shoes and haven't spotted a quality difference. Thankfully, Jonathan Jones is very much an arbiter of good taste and doesn't go off piste like Church have done.
They have just introduced a new Horween Cordo full strap that I'm yet to see in the flesh but sounds promising.
My understanding, from a reliable C&J source, is that they're not making shoes for so many other brands now. Their factory capacity is eaten up by their own shops.
C & J handgrade offered a channeled sole in oak bark tanned leather which was very durable. 337 last was only for handgrades.
Ben Silver, the expensive American retailer, still offer Clifford's maybe they get them specially made now.
Northampton is losing out on special orders with the demise of so many retailers. Small retailers like Martin-Stone in Little Venice used to commission shoes. They went out of business with rent increases and their remaining stock went to John Rushton.
Pediwear has gone too
Unseen ‘ The smart trainer is now accepted business wear so is starting to really hurt formal shoe wearing. I've been in meetings recently with investment banks and private equity firms where everyone had them on in the client side.’
I’m not surprised, you hardly see anyone wearing leather shoes now and when you do they are usually fairly ghastly. Maybe it’s a British and American thing as when I was in Paris recently, although sneakers were prevalent, there were still quite a few men wearing leather shoes. In fact people were generally better dressed than the British who seem to be engaged in a race to the stylistic bottom.
If wearing leather shoes would cast you as a fuddy duddy in business circles Unseen I hope you strike a blow for Ivy by wearing canvas sneakers!
Kingstonian,
yes, shoe prices are getting out of hand. How many people are prepared to pay 1,000 GBP for Church's shoes. I can't see a future for the company if they continue down this crazy path. John Lobb on the other hand can probably charge the $$$$, but it has it limits.
I could see the writing on the wall for Edward Green when they started cutting corners in their shoemaking to keep costs down. They are promoting non channeled soles pretty hard these days, and they are also promoting glued soles. They are unashamedly downgrading the greatness they were known for and making offerings that other companies make. Gaziano & Girling are also doing it. Lobb is doing it too, and many are making sneakers, but what will that achieve?....it doesn't add anything of value. Plenty of companies offer glued soles and open channeled soles and sneakers, so why do the big highend shoe companies need to get in on the act? It is because they are struggling and need to make higher profits, so cut costs and charge the same price (rubber soled stitched aloft shoes) and expand potential markets with cheaper items (glued soles and sneakers).
Alden is another interesting one. Will people continue to pay those crazy prices now being charged for a very average mid end shoe?
Fact is that trainers are more comfortable than leather shoes, although I’m sure that Shooey will have a different view on this. But everything is about comfort these days, hence the local traveller community women where I live going to the supermarket in their pyjamas, dressing gowns and slippers.
But then there are mixed views of the long term effects of constant trainer wearing amongst the foot community. Some experts say that continually wearing soft, cushioned shoes weakens your feet, makes them more prone to injury and brings on conditions like Plantar Fascitus, leads to spreading and fallen arches.
Personally if I’ve got walk to any distance on pavement then I reach for the Paraboots, if it’s just an evening out then loafers are fine. Trainers are for running, the gym and loafing about at home.
Last edited by FlatSixC (2023-11-24 01:08:08)
I'm trying to keep going, I'm always in formal shoes for work but generally derbies or apron split-toes in brands from Sanders, C&I to Paraboot. I'm unlikely ever to need more now though if I can find get proper sole replacements rather than those awful cut and glue things I see around online. Clients like us to be one bit more formal than them, so it works well.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2023-11-24 02:30:27)
I miss Woolworths stick on soles. They were inexpensive and available in various shoe sizes - no trimming required. A cheap forerunner to Topy. Still going strong on my Bexley shoes.
Half soles in leather from the cobbler are a false economy though.
Last edited by Kingston1an (2023-11-24 05:51:37)