Result!
The 2 pairs of 5 pockets ( cord & mole) from Joseph Turner yesterday, re-packed for return tomorrow ! The Cord in particular was a good colour ( although seemed different from the online pics), and the quality was good, but the fit wasn't right for me, I was surprised with the slimness of both pairs considering they were from a traditional mens outfitters, nothing lost as free delivery & free returns,
It's been a while, mostly because I managed to forget my password, which is linked to an old email I no longer use (and had forgotten the password to...)
I had'nt made any purchasese at all clothes-wise since about April until last week, when all of a sudden, the urge to ignore Alvey's thread and continue to fill out my wardrobe overtook me.
I've not made many purchases, so perhaps a little of the minimalist schtick is there - along with a similar philosophy to some of you of "less but better" - better quality items, made to last and fewer of them.
Things that have arrived recently or are currently winging their way to me as I type include:
Alden PTB's in Ravello (IE brown) Shell Cordovan - my cordovan addiction/collection increases by another pair, bought gently used from a little-known French second hand website I've used now and again since I lived there. I was actually hunting for some scotch grain and stumbled across these in my size, I've wanted some brown leather (rater than suede) shoes for a while, so they fit the bill quite nicely.
CTC Baggy Shirt in blue/white flannel. Some of you may have seen CTC Baggy Shirts via Maine1988 on instagram - they have a few different offerings in madras, flannel and oxford. They're basically a Japanese-designed, Indian made direct copy of old Brooks Brothers shirts - right down to the button placement, single needle tailoring, sleeve placket details etc etc - a fellow forumite and I have been discussing them via instagram and both rather lusted after them but Maine refuse to ship outside of Japan and are vehemantly against proxy-shipping websites too. I've found a direct "personal" proxy so am taking a bit of a punt to see one of these things in the flesh.
Gitman Vintage in urrrrm, blue/white flannel! - Not tried a Gitman before but I've asked you all previously and a number of you rave about them. Spotted on ebay for peanuts, new with tags.
John Simons - yea, I fell for one of the coats. Brown Donegal tweed with the fleck is making it's way back to Ireland as I type.
Thats about it, the only other thing of interest headed my way is the latest issue of 2nd Magazine, with a number of articles on "British Ivy"
Picked up a browny/grey Brooks Brothers whipcord tweed jacket for the pricely sum of _9.99. This comes with a catch. It was labelled as well worn, but on photos this appears to mean a drinks stain on the lining which itself has come away at the seams around the arm pits.
Nothing looks ripped, so given my willingness to hand wash vintage jackets, and my practice sewing/altering jackets, I'm confident I've found a bargain.
Mid 60s I suspect as the lapels are slimmish. It may be a 39M/L rather than 40 long but at a tenner felt it worth a punt!
Colin - good to know thrill of the chase persists, I hope it turns out well for you!
Tim - your update about the CTC Baggy shirt is interesting, please let us know more when you have one.
I've just purchased one of the JS heavier weight shetlands in a dark blue.
I have previously had one and they're very good.
Rather than a fine layering piece under a sports jacket they're more of a chunky knit. Ideal under a peacoat with cords.
They had two colourways available a nautural/cream and deep navy. I wanted the former but ended up with the latter.
The bargain Brooks Brothers tweed has arrived. Tweed material is in perfect condition, and it's definitely 60s. Lining needs work, but no tears or anything worrying. Nothing I can't mend as a novice.
Might be horrifying for some but I've given it a hand wash. Water turned the colour that makes you pleased you washed it. Tweed should hold up fine and then just onto altering the sleeves....wondering whether worth getting it done professionally as it's actually a beautiful jacket. Ten pounds very well spent!
In other news, I've picked up a pair of proper high waisted navy chinos that could be a game changer...but more on that when they arrive...
The Sebago sale is always worth checking out - especially at 50% off.
I've just purchased some lovely choc brown suede loafers for £126.
The downside though is the sizing on modern Sebagos is so variable.
Alvey -You are right regarding the sizing on modern Sebagos. I was looking to buy a pair that were US10 UK 9 1/2 EU 44. Made in Mexico. A US 10 is too small for me but a EU 44/45 would fit! I didn't buy them. When Sebago were all made in US the sizing was consistent and I could buy without trying on. Maybe Sebago use different factories around the world with different quality control standards.
CTC Baggy arrived shortly before Christmas, I was really unwell with flu/covid, so I did'nt really pay it my full attention when it landed on the doorstep. It is what it is, an indian made direct copy of a BB shirt, so it's really not bad for what in theory would be quite a cheap shirt - current exchange rates mean they're a sub 70 euro shirt (just) but by the time I include various fee's etc it came out to about 90 euros - or about 80 sterling at time of writing. I'd say it's probably a touch less quality than the JS shirts but it's a bit marginal, it's really not bad at all, bar the flannel being to my mind a touch thin, it's certainly well made, no sewing faults, decent quality buttons etc, it's just the cloth that lets it down a tiny tiny bit - and actually, compared to a JS flannel I have from a couple of years ago, there's very very little in it. Significantly cheaper than a JS shirt which would cost me about 160 euros by the time it got here, postage and fees etc being extortionate on this rock. At 90 quid, I'm prepared to buy another and await the next release in the spring.
Tim - were you pleased with the JS overcoat and Gitman shirt ?
^ RobbieB
I had it on good authority that Sebago have used numerous factories over recent years and that might explain the sizing issue I've encountered.
Even with this I still prefer them to modern Weejuns. They feel sturdier and the sole thicker.
Their Uk customer service has been very good also.
Alvey, I used to like the USA Weejuns as a teen early twenties guy but ever since I've preferred Sebago for the reasons you mention. I've always had a pair of two on the go. A new year's resolution for me is to wear my leather shoes more often. Basically I need to smarten myself up. I became a bit sloppy with retirement. I have the clothes in the wardrobe I just need to wear them
Alvey (our 'go-to' man !), The Sebagos you recently bought, were they on the big side or small-ish ? I'm liking the winthrop suede derbies ( and at a good price), however I'm usually a 7.5 and they only have in 7's or 8's, the sebago loafers I've had over 10 years are a loose fit for 7.5 as are the deck shoes I bought 2-3 years ago, so the dilemma of sizing up or down.... Thanks,
@Stax - the JS Overcoat is a thing of absolute beauty, although I did have a wobble when I got the import bill. It needs minor alterations to the sleeves but I think I'll wait until I'm in London next and have JS do it, I don't trust any of the local alterations people.
The Gitman turned out to be Madras, not flannel, poorly described by the seller there - had I known, I doubt I'd have bought it but it's nice, the only bug-bear for me is the lack of collar loop!
^Stax,
I'm a UK 7.5 too and like you had the dilemma that there wasn't a half size option in the suede loafers I wanted.
I purchased both the 7 and 8 for fit purposes. The 7 was too neat and whilst I appreciate suede gives a bit I didn't want to risk it.
I am keeping the UK 8 and as the suede is dark don't plan on wearing them sockless. They may require a slightly thicker sock.
Whilst probably not of interest to many, I have recently picked up some fabulous vintage Levi’s.
The first pair were some badly photographed Canvas Spikes, in a raw unbleached ecru colour. Probably slimmer than many would wear but straight off the pages of Hollywood and the Ivy Look / Black Ivy books. Perfect rise and slim taper.
Second pair are Sateen Flip-tops, a full cut tapered trouser with the perfect rise, getting their name from the rear pocket detail.
Not sure in the date but thinking pre 65, I did have some old ads as I’m a vintage Levi’s fan and love to get an idea of provenance for items I find.
Allblues has tweed Ivy jackets £100 cheaper than J Simon's. Fabric from Moons as well.
https://allbluescostore.com/product/kamakura-unstructured-ivy-herringbone-jacket-grey/
My Hardy and Johnson jackets are still going strong though.
Shoe sales seem to offer poor discounts. I still have shoes I have not worn though.
Last edited by Kingston1an (2024-01-11 07:35:44)
I fancy the Kama Ivy jacket. It's a great price point and the service from AllBlues is very good.
My understanding from someone who purchased one is that the shoulders are different from the JS jackets.
The Weejun’s blog gives an in-depth analysis of the Kamakura navy blue corduroy against 4 or 5 other makes of navy blue corduroy jacket that he owns. If you ever get taken hostage it would be an absorbing read, if not; he recommends the Kamkura jacket highly.
Last edited by FlatSixC (2024-01-13 03:28:39)
I also like the look of the Kama jacket. It would fill a gap in my wardrobe but I'm put off by the S/M/L sizing. I would be between M and L.
Thought the jackets look great, too. Thankfully, I don't 'need' either so not jumped at them...but future versions I'd be sorely tempted! Still searching for a brown cord that I'm happy with
No lining on the Kamakura jacket either. Weejun describes donning/removing jacket when wearing a corduroy shirt as like tackling velcro.
I don't believe hot weather is an excuse for no lining. My Southern California Harris Tweed had a half lining.
Were unlined (non cotton) jackets available back in the day ?
All blues have a discount at the moment.
Kamakura thick blue stripe shirt is back in my size. Around £95 including postage.
'Everything comes to those who wait' as they used to say.