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#1 2024-04-30 07:16:41

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

1/4 Zip knitwear, Barbours, cricket sweaters, anoraks, Filson bags.

I'd be interested to know what others thoughts are on what is considered Ivy but might not be.

I can hear murmurs in the cheap seats already - Does it matter? I wear what I want regardless of label! I am a free man not a number, etc

I feel recently Ivy has become short hand for everything and anything. Used and abused.

 

#2 2024-04-30 08:01:15

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3279

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

1. No, unless it's a tube knit 1/4 zip sweatshirt
2. Tricky, being a Yorkshireman, unless it's an international jacket, then it screams gamekeeper
3. Bit too John's Children Mod for me, but Hockney wore them well.
4. 60/40 Sierra Designs style or Fisherman's? I have both which I like to think have a bit of a Take Ivy look
5. I like a bag, stuffing pockets full of wallets, phones, key's is just ugly and uncomfortable. Filson, Tote, backpack – choice depends on outfit

I'll stick my neck out and say if it's not a sack jacket, it's not ivy.

 

#3 2024-05-01 04:53:34

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

Is it Ivy?

The perennial question that continues to generate discussion and long may it do so.

It can be seen as a frozen in time look from, what, 1955-65?
The traditional formal dress side of Ivy is more clearly defined. Some people pursue it, but it has become more difficult to dress like that in most walks of life. I have little need or occasion to dress like a New England prep school teacher or a Madison Ave advertising man.

Then there is the more casual and collegiate side of the look. This was always in a state of flux with young guys breaking from tradition and grabbing the nearest sweatshirt or parka. Many of the staple items came from places like LL Bean and Lands End. Then there’s the military stuff.

English clothing always held a cache, so I wouldn’t be surprised if the odd Barbour or Burberry was seen on campus. Don’t forget that cricket sweaters are also tennis sweaters.

Largely we weren’t there and, if truth be told, people’s ideas of ‘what is Ivy’ have been informed by the internet and menswear forums. Hands up, that’s me!

But as you go on you form your own opinions on this stuff. I’m now far more open to continental bits and pieces. I’m not big on workwear but I can see the utility in a pair of Red Wing boots.

 

#4 2024-05-01 07:31:30

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3279

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

Well put FSC, I think we also need to add the influence of the Japanese and how they took the look on and made it aspirational to a whole generation, I'm sure most have read Ametora.

 

#5 2024-05-01 11:32:03

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

'1/4 Zip knitwear, Barbours, cricket sweaters, anoraks, Filson bags.'

1. no.

2. Don't like them but they might possibly be ivy. Did those late 70s Japanese photos of campus ivy HTJ unearthed a few years back include someone wearing one? If so I'll have to give them a pass. If not then they get no pass.

3. Just about acceptable, but only if everything else is textbook.

4. If they're sufficiently retro/classic I suppose so. Although the classic yellow rowing anorak is probably a nightmare to wear as I think they were made of rubber. A parka has more potential - 60/40s from the past but there are also contemporary brands that have that classic look. O'Connell's probably have some in.

5. The only ones I've seen are vintage and looked pretty tasty. If they still make them then they're probably not as good.

I think anyone who has some really strong ivy classics in their outfit can afford to have questionable items too e.g. if you're wearing pebblegrain longwings, high rise, no break chinos with big cuffs, and a Makers or v similar OCBD, then whatever else you wear will probably look ivy by association.

Last edited by Yuca (2024-05-01 11:32:57)


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#6 2024-05-02 13:59:55

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

FSC makes a good point about the cache of English clothes.

There's a number of traditional English brands that offer items, that although don't fall into Ivy, are stocked by places like Press and O'Connels.

In fact the 1/4 Zip, I was originally thinking of, is most likely made for Press by Alan Paine.

You can also add loud Corgi and Pantherella socks to the list.

Peter Jones of Dragons Den once said that when interviewing someone if they're wearing bright socks they're going to have an edge. Personally, I think if socks make someone edgy it's a sad state of affairs.

How about chore jackets. Increasingly sold as related.

Last edited by AlveySinger (2024-05-02 14:02:54)

 

#7 2024-05-03 05:29:16

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

I’ve never been sold on the chore jacket thing and certainly wouldn’t see it as being Ivy.

It’s a reaction to the current overwhelmingly casual vibe in menswear. It caters to men who would like to put on a jacket but, apart from weddings etc, can’t quite bring themselves to wear a tailored one with lapels in case everyone will be sniggering at them for looking too posh.

The modern day equivalent of the safari suit?

 

#8 2024-05-04 02:16:13

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4178

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

Agreed. They may see jackets as old fashioned rather than posh.

A chore coat has three outside pockets which are fairly useless. A jacket has decent pockets inside and out. A chore coat is little more than a heavy weight shirt. Worn by people such as the loathsome Monty Don though it is probably OK for gardening.

A safari jacket has four decent pockets with secured flaps


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#9 2024-05-04 02:19:08

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4178

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

My old C&A ski jacket is great for gardening. It had zip off sleeves which I no longer use. Fine except for very hot weather.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#10 2024-05-04 10:11:44

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1263

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

I'm fairly relaxed now on the Ivy / Non-Ivy at sixty years or more of distance from the peak, there can't be that many people other than 'us' who care. I'm intrigued on the description of Monty Don as loathsome though, not to divert the thread too much

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-05-04 10:41:09)

 

#11 2024-05-04 12:49:08

colin
Bright Light
Posts: 1365

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

I went through a chore jacket phase... would still wear one but see why they're not liked. A slack Jacket obviously far superior!

 

#12 2024-05-04 14:20:51

An Unseen Scene
Member
From: Nottingham, UK
Posts: 1263

Re: YES, BUT IS IT IVY...

I think it is the labelling that's the issue on chore / workwear / postman jackets, there has always been room for a short collared jacket/coat broadly in the same style, called by different names. Without the label it carries on the tradition of the Levin / windbreaker or the car coat (which I know some do not like). It just needs the trend to move on.

Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-05-04 14:36:11)

 

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