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#1 2023-10-10 07:15:24

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

I can't think of any other item of clothing that I have purchased in so many brands, fits and price points as the plain cotton trouser  - and still not achieved perfection

My ideal is driven by an elusive rise to thigh ratio. I want a higher than hip rise but don't want the thighs to have excessive jodhpur-like cloth.

I typically taper chinos to 15" bottom.

The brands I've purchased, in no specific order, include, Brooks, Bills M2 and M3, Balin of Canada, Duck Head, Orvis, Dockers, Jack Donnelly, Hertl, Lands End, J Press, J Crew, Ralph - Polo and Purple Label, Eddie Bauer,  Meyer, Uniqlo, John Simons and probably others I can't recall.

I appreciate manufacturers are always tinkering with specs - fit, country of origin, pricing – so it's almost impossible to create a meaningful apples for apples review but here goes.

Bills M3 are probably closest to my ideal. They're available in variety of materials from heavier brushed cotton through to lighter tropical weights. The M2 is a bit too baggy for my tastes. I should imagine if you've got longish legs they would look better. The Orvis trousers I purchased were similar and went straight back.

If you're looking for a heavier cloth the Jack Donnelly's are also very good. In the UK you'd get away with wearing them for 9 months of the year.

I have a few John Simons chinos. The latest made in India trouser - with or without buckle back– is very good. A lovely soft handle and ideal for the warmer months.

Worst goes to either Lands End or Ralph Purple label. The LE were so thin they were almost see-through around the crotch. The purple label was far too low rise. Serves me right for purchasing under the influence of white wine.

Polo is too difficult to gauge as they're constantly changing their offer. When they're good they're very good.

Brooks Clark Advantage fit is raved about in certain quarters. I genuinely can't see what the fuss is about. File under OK

I used to get a lot of cotton trousers from J Crew when on holiday. Their factory outlet would sell them off for under $15. The rise was good but the legs needed a fair amount of tailoring. My understanding is the 1040 fit is the one that will appeal to most on here.

My first pair of Dockers were purchased from Bicester Village many years ago. They were parallel in cut. Horrible really. Then a few years ago, on holiday in the States, I came across a heavy twill under the heading Pacific Collection Field Khaki. Fabulous material, not too baggy but the rise wasn't great. I had the rise adjusted and they've been good workhorses. Worth hunting out on Ebay as sadly discontinued.

The Uniqlo were cheap and cheerful. You get what you pay for I suppose. Big plus point was the coin pocket that you don't often find on cheaper trousers. Far better than other cheaper options

Both of the Duck Head models I've purchased are now discontinued. I was exceptionally happy with both pairs but they were polar opposites. The first were purchased from JS. Very heavy, made in the USA, superb quality. The second pair were green badge 98% cotton with a bit of stretch. Ideal to take on holiday to sunnier climes. Always look good straight from the suitcase. Sadly they have no current Uk representation.

So after everything what's my conclusion.

Finding your personal perfect fit might not be possible so my recommendation runs like this.

Focus on the rise, as this appears, during the current obsession with low-rise, difficult but not impossible.

Get a good tailor to adjust the thighs according to your preference.

Finally, and this is the most important thing, go straight back to the shop and get every other colour way in the same fit as in twelve months time what you love will no doubt be changed again.

Last edited by AlveySinger (2023-10-10 07:47:57)

 

#2 2023-10-10 12:24:35

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

O'Connell's for me, but of course they're not cheap. The rise is admirable.

I had a pair of Jack Donnelly's once but the rise was crap really. Probably medium rather than low but still not how I like it.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#3 2023-10-11 08:35:57

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4179

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Silvermans classic chino @£19.99.

Old style, high rise, button fly. Good quality material.

More Sergeant Bilko than Ivy, but I understand some people get them tapered.

Silvermans offer a more modern cut Chino around £35. I have not tried them.

Also have Silvermans safari jacket which is useful in Summer and the antidote to Monty Don/chore coats.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#4 2023-10-11 14:59:30

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

I got very keen on Orvis trim fit chinos a few years ago. Despite the trim description they were actually quite generously cut with a good rise and quality cloth. I’ve got a a couple of unworn pairs in the loft, still in their packets, I really must try to sell them.

Then came one one of the many iterations of the John Simons chino. These were high rise, nicely tapered but fulsome around the top, all the details like extra belt loops of the correct proportion, pockets, buttons, all spot on in my eyes. The quality of manufacture and the cloth they used were top notch. They didn’t sell, the average punter, lacking the commitment to walk up their local high street looking like General McArthur, found them to be too … challenging. John, who probably designed them, said they were ‘big boys trousers’.  I loved them and when JS couldn’t shift them I bought three pairs at a knock down price.  They’re still going strong, in fact one pair haven’t been worn yet.

Despite this, the other day I saw a pair of NOS US Army chinos on sale at a vintage dealer that I was unable to resist. I would say that in cut and form they are identical to the JS chinos I describe above. But the cloth is not as heavy, they may be okay for summer. They are being taken up by my Latvian sewing lady at present but I am looking forward to wearing them in anger.

Last edited by FlatSixC (2023-10-11 15:01:31)

 

#5 2023-10-12 03:14:48

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

^FSC

The US Army chinos sound interesting.

What's the width like on them.

 

#6 2023-10-12 03:15:57

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

The Bills M1 are supposedly the closest new trousers to the originals.

I have yet to try a pair on

 

#7 2023-10-12 10:27:34

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

I've got a couple of pairs of made in USA Docker  US style Army chinos. Heavy cloth, high rise, button flies and baggy by modern standards. I actually prefer my Uniqlo chinos. I now like a zipper fly and a less baggy high rise trouser (but not slim fit). A few weeks ago I bought a pair of chinos in olive from John Lewis. High rise, well made and a great colour. One shouldn't have to pay too much for of trousers for knocking about in. By the way Community Clothing are now producing made in England chinos for £94. High rise, good cloth etc. I haven't tried them so I don't know if they are any good.
Fit is everything and for me a high rise is important.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#8 2023-10-14 14:01:27

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Alvey - I ‘ll post measurements when I get them back from the Latvian sewing lady.

 

#9 2023-10-16 03:18:05

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 779

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Late to this conversation.... but, the best pair or chinos I've had in recent years are a pair of J.Keydge 100% cotton frogmouth light beige colour, high-ish waist ( well high enough for me), 15 inch bottoms good width in the thigh,button fly, I bought these from 46CS in 2014, ( as always) should have bought them in other colours, I did buy a pair of navy a year later but returned them as they had a high linen content which I didn't discover until I got them home, I think I must have asked a bit later if they were getting any more Keydge chinos as JS told me Keydge didn't like making trousers ! I've been very happy with the Uniqlo regular fit chinos, (for once) i was pro-active and bought 4 pairs, the last time I checked their website they weren't doing the regular fit only slim fit,

 

#10 2023-10-16 23:13:49

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Stax-Uniqlo seem to have a habit of discontinuing lines. No longer offering regular fit chinos they are now selling just a slim fit and new a very baggy fit chino. Pleats have crept into the design as well. My J Lewis regular fit chinos have been discontinued as well. I have plenty of chinos anyway so at least it stops me buying any for a while.


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#11 2023-10-17 01:31:11

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Correction- pleats are on the new J Lewis Chino not the Uniqlo ones


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#12 2023-10-19 14:13:49

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Alvey - US Army chinos:
On a 34??  waist size, Thigh 13?? , Knee 11?? , Bottom 9.5?? . Rise a whopping 13?? .
Quality good but not as good as Bills or the old JS chinos I referenced above. Maybe things ain’t what they used to be in the US milarteree.

They are little baggier than I would normally wear, so I may get them tapered in a bit. But I’ll wear them standard a few times to see how I feel. I think I’ll deploy them with my A2 leather jacket for a full Chuck Yeager look.

 

#13 2023-10-19 14:16:17

FlatSixC
Member
Posts: 330

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Alvey - US Army chinos:
On a 34 ins waist size, Thigh 13 ins, Knee 11ins , Bottom 9.5  ins.R ise a whopping 13 ins.
Quality good, but not as good as Bills or the old JS chinos I referenced above. Maybe things ain’t what they used to be in the US milarteree.

They are little baggier than I would normally wear, so I may get them tapered in a bit. But I’ll wear them standard a few times to see how I feel. I think I’ll deploy them with my A2 leather jacket for a full Chuck Yeager look.

 

#14 2023-10-20 09:47:16

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Wow. That is a wide leg opening. Rise sounds bang on.

One day I'd like to try the super wide look and have them short and slightly frayed.

I'm loving the sound of the Chuck Yeager look. You'll need the American Optical pilot glasses too

 

#15 2023-10-20 09:49:45

AlveySinger
Member
Posts: 900

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

RobbieB

I'm wondering if classic flat fronts will now be phased out on the high street.

Everywhere you look you're finding pleats.

Having done them in the eighties and nineties I haven't an issue but I know some will have.

 

#16 2023-10-21 01:09:09

RobbieB
Member
Posts: 2219

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Alvey

I also wore pleated trousers in the 80/90s . I still have a double pleated pair of Hugo Boss shorts that were cut down from trousers that I wear for gardening/decorating etc. I only have plain fronted trousers today. Don't have a big issue with them but prefer the plain front. I'm not very keen on frogmouth pocket trousers though. Talking to a mate the other week he said that he only likes frogmouth strides!


'I am a closet optimist' Leonard Cohen.

 

#17 2023-10-21 02:55:17

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 779

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Robbie - I'm a big fan of frogmouth pocket trousers, unfortunately I've only got 2 pairs at the present time, difficult to find these days, I like them particularly on chinos, sort of makes them a little more casual, I'm fully stocked with chinos particularly after buying 4 pairs from Uniqlo this past year, but if any f/m come available I'll be in there, perhaps JS might produce some next year, they've done f/m in wool & possibly corduroy in recent years, and pleats, like most of a certain age I had them in the 80's & 90's, a single pleat and on seam pockets on more dressy/formal trousers is  I think a good look , but how often is there an opportunity to wear formal trousers ?, I'm starting to feel overdressed in chinos and a slouchy Keydge jacket when I go out !

 

#18 2024-06-22 14:36:50

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Any decent chinos available in the UK? Not too slim. Can't see anything except some v expensive ones in JS that are over my budget.

Well CC have some that look ok, except I bought a pair a few years ago and they're ok but something's a bit off with them. I have no idea if they've changed the fit since then. Any other options? I don't think anything mentioned in this thread is still available.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

#19 2024-06-23 06:55:34

Staxfan
Member
Posts: 779

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Yuca - Peter Christian have some decent looking chinos for £50, 2 pairs £90, 100% cotton, regular fit ( hem 16"), personally I wouldn't stray further than the beige, stone or navy, I've never owned any of their chinos but I was very satisfied with the pair of navy 5 pockets I bought earlier this year, Cordings have a sale on at the present time, ( although the discounts are minimal), around £100 for a pair of chinos, I've been buying trousers from Cordings for 8/9 years and always been very satisfied with them, I'm glad I stocked up (4 pairs) on the Uniqlo regular fit chinos last year, they seem to be wearing well although they're not worn on a daily basis,Cheers,

 

#20 2024-06-23 08:37:23

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4179

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

I have a pair of Primark chinos from years ago. They are fine and would have been cheap. I used to get dark poly cotton trousers from there for playing golf.

Silverman's chinos have a 10 inch opening width at the bottom.

Prefer to buy trousers I can try on first, but Peter Christian have always been sound.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#21 2024-06-23 09:02:36

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4179

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Primark chinos are are all cotton in traditional Chino colour for clarity. Poly cotton's are just for playing golf.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#22 2024-06-23 12:58:25

Tomiskinky
Member
Posts: 3279

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

If on a budget Silvermans vintage every time, but the smallest waist left is a 34

 

#23 2024-06-24 06:55:20

Patrick
Member
Posts: 2653

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

I lost a lot of weight and I'm unsure of where I will stabilize. Meantime all my pants were falling down

So I went with Lands End, which offers custom inseams.

As usual the tale of the tape matters. What they call a 35 waist is actually 18.5 inches x 2 = 37, and they are loose, but not as loose as my alleged 36s in all brands.

So I will keep them but next time I will try 33 or 34, which will get closer to 35, which is what I actually am these days

Good thing I kept that gizmo for punching new holes in leather belts.

It's a nice problem to have, I guess.

LE runs constant sales so this is not a high-dollar proposition.


Otter : Take it easy, I'm pre-law.
Boon : I thought you were pre-med.
Otter : What's the difference?

 

#24 2024-06-25 07:52:26

Kingston1an
Member
Posts: 4179

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

The gizmo for punching holes sounds interesting. Unfortunately with surcingle belts there isn't much leather to play with. So you need to get them shortened.


"Florid, smug, middle-aged golf club bore in this country I'd say. Propping up the 19th hole in deepest Surrey bemoaning the perils of immigration."

 

#25 2024-06-25 14:34:11

Yuca
Member
Posts: 8568

Re: GO TO BRANDS - CHINOS

Thanks to all for the recommendations! I have some Silverman's which are slightly too small so I suspect the next size up will be far too big for me, but they're the best in the UK for my tastes so I may risk it. Of course a seamstress or tailor could solve that problem.

I had LE chinos years ago and may try them again, although the rise is way too short for my tastes.


some sort of banal legitimacy

 

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