Just had something pop up from John Lewis, ' Relaxed Fit Cotton Chinos, Sand ', Reduced to £38.50, 34 & 36 waists, slight single pleat, I tried a pair of these a few months ago when I was in a John Lewis branch just to see what the fit was like, I thought they were a good pair of chinos for the (full) price £55.00 ,
^Should have mentioned the rise on these LE chinos is 11 inches which is just barely adequate
Since starting this thread last year I've added another couple of options.
I might have found something comparable to my beloved Bills M3. - the DuckHead classic fit Gold School chino in khaki.
I'm yet to have these tailored hence using "might" but on first impression they tick a lot of boxes - colour, rise and weight. They're also less than 50% of the costs of Bills.
I went for the big patch version as they reminded me of the style I noticed at John Simons way back when.
The Duckheads look ok. Definitely worth considering although, in all honesty, the medium rise puts me off. Particularly as it seems I would have to import them into the UK.
I actually exclusively wear tucked out t shirt, polo shirt or camp collar shirt throughout the UK summer month(s) and whenever I'm in the tropics, so perhaps I don't really need to be so fussy about the rise.
Last edited by Yuca (2024-06-26 12:20:33)
'^Should have mentioned the rise on these LE chinos is 11 inches which is just barely adequate'
Yes that's definitely medium rather than short. Passable and what I wore in my early ivy days (LE and Bean). But in my old age I've become fussier. Which is difficult when I don't want to spring for O'Connell's (which to be fair are worth the expense).
I believe Duckheads are 11" too. I bet back in the 80s they were a little higher.
I much prefer a generous rise. What the Preppy Handbook referred to as the "floating crotch"
See if this works:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/5BiZbI.jpg
My go to summer chinos are Unqlo bought some years back when they all came with one leg length. A good fit on me, just rolled the hem a couple of times and they were good to go. I also have Bills M2's that I had to get altered by George back then. A very cheap option were two pair of Dockers from Costo at £10 a pair, a decent fit after I had them tapered to 16". I have a pair of the Silverman's khaki drill chinos 36" waist, unworn which I am happy to pass on, if interested message me.
Yuca,
My local tailor opens the seam on the crotch and "scoops" them to increase the rise. You have to have enough material on leg length to achieve this. He adds about 3/4" to the existing rise.
The DuckHeads required this to get them more onto my waist.
Good to hear from you Chris_H, it's been a while, your posts are appreciated by all I'm sure,
'My local tailor opens the seam on the crotch and "scoops" them to increase the rise. You have to have enough material on leg length to achieve this. He adds about 3/4" to the existing rise.'
Thanks for the tip off.
I've just found a UK shop that appears to have some very nice chinos, all cotton, high rise and not too pricey. Once I've ordered and received them I may let you in on my find.
'I much prefer a generous rise. What the Preppy Handbook referred to as the "floating crotch"
See if this works:
https://imagizer.imageshack.com/v2/640x480q70/922/5BiZbI.jpg'
A very 80s image, but if you swapped it for a 50s casual campus look you could probably keep the trousers the same.
I went to J Lewis to check out the sale and found that they were selling Gant chinos half price at £50. I tried them on and the fit was good for me so I bought them. Olive colour and a medium rise. I wouldn't pay £100 for them but for £50 I thought it was worth a punt. Not much else of interest for me but there were one or two bargains for sale at half price.
I found some nice looking chinos but the prices are insane. Blackhorse Lane Ateliers selling at 290GBP. They describe them as medium rise although it looks reasonably high to me. I've paid through the nose plenty of times in my life, but 290 for chinos? No way.
What I have found, that I mentioned earlier, and that looks very intriguing, is Olderbest. Quite a number of different classic chinos and the prices are reasonable. They're Chinese and orders are sent from China, however they claim to pay customs duties for the customer (I think - it's a bit ambiguous). Anyone tried them?
Last edited by Yuca (2024-07-11 06:07:36)
I've heard good stuff about Olderbest, so probably worth a try. I was tempted to get their take on the Eddie Bauer Skyliner but didn't commit.
I also hear they make the stuff for Pike Bros (have you seen if they have any options?)
they claim to pay customs duties for the customer - Yuca - I took a look at the website, quite interesting, I did look at the shipping duty/taxes section and they have an arran gement for shipments to the EU but it doesn't mention anything about the UK, as I may have mentioned before there are ways ( legit) that overseas co's can pay UK taxes & duties but basically they'd need to have a sizeable business to the UK to make it worthwhile to set theirselves up with HMCE to do this, I had customers back in the 90's that shipped ladies garments from Canada to the UK that did this,
Olderbest is the UK site for Bronson, from which I've got a bunch of their wide stripe Ts, a B-15C MOD and the 1950s US Army Officer Chino Trousers which are all great for the price. The chinos fit a big on big side, have mega rise, button fly and compare favourably to much more expensive Toys McCoys ones I used to have. Not been stung with customs, I think it ships through some brokerage.
If you don't mind the elastine, I've found these to be perfect cut for me https://eu.lee.com/uk-en/shop/relaxed-chino-in-stone-L70XTY58.html
I had a look at Olderbest. Interesting range. Name a date and a style and they may have it. 1870 ? 1917 ? 1940 ? Herringbone denim?
I am not sure where they get the designs or who buys all the stuff.
I don't like those buckles on the back of jeans or trousers. Some of the stuff looks like proper work clothing for painting and decorating and such like.
I don't like those buckles on the back of jeans or trousers. Some of the stuff looks like proper work clothing for painting and decorating and such like
Buckle back trouser are a quintessential part of the look. Painter pants etc they stock are more workwear and certainly don’t appeal to me, but their remade classics are bona fide Ivy era, I’d say a large part fits into the aesthetic of Black Ivy style which is well documented in Jason Jules book, which really lifts the look from the droll conservatism many lock into. I mean, if it wasn’t for workwear we’d not be wearing chinos.
Last edited by Tomiskinky (2024-07-15 04:02:52)
Buckle back trousers can play havoc with leather car seats. I certainly wouldn’t be allowed in the Mrs’s TT if I was wearing them!
Must be an issue with the quality of modern car interiors.
I have some buckle back trousers as part of a poplin J Press suit.
Although I don't take the jacket off that often I'm a bit self conscious about the buckle.
As the jacket hasn't got the best buttoning stance I don't wear the suit that often.
Side note, but a slightly 'off' buttoning stance can really discourage wear. That said, have a old BB corduroy sack jacket that I've slowly come round to the slightly lower stance...
Buckles on trousers were Chens' favourite at one time. I think he just wanted something to keep himself interested in a style that didn't really inspire him. I've never been a fan but I got some LVC jeans with a buckleback and I'm indifferent to it. Or maybe I even like it. The jeans as a whole are superb, but LVCs are the best imo. (As they should be at those prices.)
Last edited by Yuca (2024-07-18 08:11:30)