Okay, so recognising many of us who remain here are more-or-less obsessed with the ivy look, or natural shoulder look, and I'm curious if anyone has found themselves needing to move beyond the idea of creating the 'perfect' capsule wardrobe?
Let me give an example, I recently picked up a wonderful old 1980s greyish brown herringbone tweed overcoat. Made in England for Austin Reed. Fits well. And yet, I look at the new John Simons overcoat and think "I wish this overcoat was a chunkier darker brown herringbone tweed", this is a just a bit too grey for my ideal tweed overcoat.
Now, most people would hardly be able to spot the difference but I was wondering if others felt that sense of not-quite-yet having the perfect wardrobe...and perhaps realising they might never reach this point? Or always thinking, maybe I should get one more colour shaggy dog Shetland?
Ultimately, I don't need any more clothes now. I'm finally clearing out the wardrobe of vintage pieces that don't quite fit and I know that these clothes will now last me for decades, they all get worn lightly, continuously revolved, well made etc.
Of course, there's a big paradox as the ivy look is easy, relaxed, comfortable, and yet many still obsess over details and the look. So I was curious if others reached a point where they are happy to just wear *almost perfect* clothes and get on with their lives!?
I am broadly at that point. I can admire clothes that I then do not feel a need to own. Probably less than a third of the clothes I have are worn in a year. I am learning to let go a bit. I also do not want to walk around like an Ivy cliche. It needs mixing up a touch and making ours. I already stick out as overdressed compared to most around me, there is a point where it could go too far. I will never get everything I want in clothes and shoes, which is a good thing. But like all of us...I still keep looking.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-11-12 15:19:48)
Reflecting on this overnight, I'm trying to find a balance of 'good enough' in lots of areas of life. I could invest in McIntosh or Linn audio, but what I have is decent and definitely 'good enough'. I could have a more expensive car or house, but what we have is to our satisfaction and 'good enough'.
That sounds like feint praise, but we're very happy. We all get seduced in chasing the highest quality or maximum spend in our lives, in a society based on competition and striving to be feel a winner. But that doesn't really take us anywhere useful. I've opted out from that and am very happy with 'good enough'.
That is also how I feel about clothes and shoes at this stage of life too. Watches is another area like that, I have no desire for expensive watches in an era when they don't deliver a specific requirement. I'd like a Defakto German modernist watch, but I doubt I'll ever buy one. A watch that works and looks good (and in my case is solar based as part of my work emphasis) is a good choice for me at a reasonable price. I definitely am unlikely to ever need a new watch as I only wear a third of those I already have.
I'm 55 now and nobody around me cares about style (other than Mrs Unseen who just wants me looking okay). Even in my business life, clients are in jumpers, jeans and trainers up to executive level most of the time. Yesterday in an onsite client day, there were two hundred men in a software company and I was the only person even in a shirt. I haven't worn a tie or formal trousers for work since before Covid, so there is a limit at to how much it is worth spending. I'm gradually adjusting to needing less, standards around me not being the same and my own ageing.
So 'good enough' in Ivy style .....well that's...... much more than.....good enough.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-11-13 03:43:10)
Firstly, what a great post.
Here's a slightly different perspective.
If you're genuinely into clothes you tend to have what I call "the eye". That's the ability to understand the subtle changes and differences in menswear design. Whereas someone without it looks at a pair of loafers and just sees slip-on shoes if you have "the eye" you'll immediately notice beef rolls, straps, hand stitching, the height of the heel and a load of other detail. You'll also be able to put them into context of what would work well with them. It gives you the confidence, that so many British men lack, to experiment. The eye extends to knowing your own body shape and what works, or doesn't, for you personally.
Having the eye is actually a curse, because you appreciate the subtle differences, you're probably always evaluating what clothes you have and wanting to refine or add to your wardrobe. Hence your original comment about your overcoat. Many others out there wouldn't care about it not being the right brown - it's just an overcoat.
This resonates with me as I'm after a Cording's donegal overcoat, that they did 4 years ago, that they haven't yet reintroduced in the chocolate shade. I could settle with the bark or chestnut but they're not quite right.
The eye can extend into all aspects of life beyond clothing into an appreciation of your environment.
It gives me a huge amount of pleasure to sit down to eat, even a simple meal, if there's good flatware, an elegant wine glass and crisp linen. I'm particularly fond of what Ralph Lauren creates in his stores and restaurants. Everything has been considered from the props that tell a complementary narrative through to the soundtrack.
I like that concept of the eye... it also makes getting dressed longer and involve thinking before hand.
What you observe of Ralph Lauren in dining also was the case with Terence Conran, or even the Carluccios chain at its peak.
I'd forgotten about Conran. Everything considered from matches and ashtrays to typography on menus.
Bibendum in particular. Beautiful restaurant.
RL seem to be transitioning from being founder-centred to carry on the ethos, Conran didn't.
Nor did Mary Quant or Michael Ingram's various lines (he ultimately gave it all up quite early having had hundreds of shops across multiple brands in both UK and USA). It's intriguing how Biba is now a brand name only divorced from its origins.
For Conran, the restaurants, his books, shops, Habitat, architect practice, design didn't cohere into more than the sum of their parts into something that would endure together. I don't think there was any attempt to, there various businesses were separate and went their own way. I hadn't realised until recently the shop in Marylebone has gone. I have books on it all and it's fading away now though Conran retail and the architects remain.
Paul Smith is worth a mention too - for decades his brain span out into all kinds of areas that complemented his clothing. As he is ageing I feel a sense of his passions not being as envident and they seem to be becoming a more dull retailer. Even ten years ago his cycling passions, love for colour schemes showed up - his presence was felt. They had capsule lines, small runs, interesting curios, books, the Japan only line with fascinating items. It felt like his interests and brain still stimulating the business. There were multiple books, including one on cycling badges I bought for a friend. He talked about how the brand was more than him and he was setting it up to continue, but I don't see any inspiration carrying forward that will create anything distinctive - as the people leading do not have his founding and influences here in Nottingham and then beyond. I have friends who wear Paul Smith polos primarily, but they don't carry that on into his wider lines. I have a couple of jackets and some excellent Italian made shoes from there as I've received a lot of gift tokens for there being based in Nottingham.
I'm not sure how it will last as he inevitably isn't involved. It's hard in UK for us to appreciate how much presence Paul Smith has in Japan.
Margarat Howell is also big in Japan and while the clothes aren't for me, ther care and passion is still there - emphasizing craft and related topics such as Isokon building/design.
RL though seems to be beyond Ralph now, which it needs - it seems to be able to add without losing its core and representing American aspiration softly in a way that will likely endure. Newer lines have kept it positioned into contemporary trends without any overt influence of Ralph being involved.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-11-13 09:48:21)
To me the problem with Conran's empire was it was a collection of creative businesses across an exceptionally wide spectrum - with little crossover.
He was, for a time, the poster boy for a new vision of the UK - part entrepreneur, part designer, swinging sixties pedigree with an eye on the future. BHS was the bridge too far.
Ralph has had loads of failures too - too many brands, opening up new concepts and pulling them quickly, failed third party deals - but fundamentally he has stuck to fairly rigid parameters regarding his design ethos and how far he can push the brand(s). I can't see him opening a design consultancy or architectural practice anytime soon.
When Paul Smith moved from Nottingham to London I would occasionally visit a small outlet store he had that was opposite South Moulton Street. Great designs but still expensive. I bought a handful of items over the years but not a brand I felt any affinity to.
The Conran work in architecture is quite nice and continues: https://conranandpartners.com/
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-11-15 02:02:35)
I was moving in a more casual direction before COVID.
Why?
I was too conspicuous. Only guy in the room wearing a a jacket and tie. A reporter is supposed to blend in.
The advent of Zoom meetings etc really finished it.
I'm down to maybe eight sport coats, two blazers, a plain navy and plain dark grey suit. 50-60 ties. 50-60 shirts. Still way too many shoes but I'm working on it.
Most of this stuff gets trotted out once a year.
Last edited by Patrick (2024-11-21 05:16:04)
Saw 'capsule' and thought clear out.
I have lots of stuff I rarely wear, but don't want to get rid of.
As for new stuff, there are things that appeal but I would not get much use out of. Bespoke suits in particular fabrics, patterns for example - when I only wear suits for weddings and funerals. So reality kicks in.
I have enough stuff to see me out.
I realised I had kept some items long past their best or fitting me out of sentiment for their quality. So some things are moving on prompted by this thread.
But I am at Ascot races today for work so an opportunity to put together a great outfit. A Prince of Wales check mac on today that is excellent, the pattern being fully woven within the fabric and not worn in at least six years, possibly more.
The danger of course is putting too much together, but it was fun working out the layers for today. Wearing a tie again feels curious, a plum colour vintage Viyella knitted 100% wool tie with subtle nep flecks being the choice.
Last edited by An Unseen Scene (2024-11-22 03:31:51)
"I realised I had kept some items long past their best or fitting me out of sentiment for their quality."
Me too. Permanent press half sleeve shirts size 15.5. from either Squire or Ivy shop - before polyester was frowned upon. I did not know at the time the two shops were run by the same people. Selected in preference to Austin's cotton version after a salesman suggested my mom could iron it.
Only had shirts and shoes and a mohair suit at the time. Most of the week I was in school uniform.
Glad it's not just me, then! I think 'good enough' is a good way of thinking (in many aspects of life, to be honest!).
The 'eye' is definitely part of the issue. I'm struck by how platforms like Instagram really seduce you into wanting more, unnecessarily.
The odd thing here or there will still be picked up, but I'm definitely gearing up for selling mode for the foreseeable!