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#1 2008-01-30 13:43:18

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

I have been doing alot of research for a consulting project on the men's shirt industry, which in turn could lead to a business down the line. My question is what type of premium would you all pay for a shirt to be made in England or in the UK. For instance as an American benchmark an RTW shirt by Thomas Pink with their rather poor fabrics, made in Morocco or Romania, is selling for $150, would you pay $190 say for a shirt made in England or the UK and so labeled. Since fabrics are a big sticking point, lets say these shirts would be made with thomas mason, alumo, or acorn. My research shows that basically every Jermyn Street company now makes overseas for RTW, I did not say MTM, except for Turnbull and Budd. These shirts would be the only ones sold in the US besides Turnbull which would be made in the UK.  They would be sold first on the net then maybe with a store opening. Remember the price is higher than ordering from the UK because of the 20% textile tariff and it is actually made in the UK and not abroad. There could be a MTM shirt available if measurements given online, these would be made in England and sell for around $280 in the US. Do you see a mkt for this since a true UK or English shirt is not available in the USA? The shirt would be comparable to a Turnbull, Emma Willis, Budd, or Coles. Furthrmore, almost all Jermyn street shirts are made abroad so please don't come at me with their prices and the fact there is no tariff.

Regards

 

#2 2008-01-30 14:48:39

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Good luck with your venture.  I'm not sure that the "Made In England" designation for shirts would have any cache, for reasons cited, at least not enough to justify a premium price.  I don't know that sufficient shirtmaking talent exists in the UK to produce a high-end shirt on a fairly large scale.  Would you put together a factory of your own or outsource?  If the latter, proceed with caution as some venerable workshops, such as that behind Hilditch & Key, produce very inconsistent results.  Lastly, an online/self-measure program is a recipe for disaster as most customers simply are not equipped to self-measure correctly, which will result in a torrent of negative publicity.  Fact is, actual shirtmakers in London, or those who call themselves shirtmakers, can't even measure properly.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#3 2008-01-30 15:02:59

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

There is one factory in England and one factory in N. Ireland which turns out great shirts. Almost all Jermyn street shirts at $100 and under are made in Turkey, Romania, Peru, China, India, Poland, etc. They do not make in the UK. It would be outsourced, yes. What we are looking at is providing an Emma Willis, Budd type shirt here, online in the US for around $190 and later maybe a small store. This is almost $100 cheaper than Turnbull and it is of the same or better quality and about $175 cheaper than Emma Willis with the exchange rate. She offers a MTM service online. Most niche shirt shops for RTW in NYC sell at $275 or more for a vastly inferior product made in the USA or Italy.

Regards

 

#4 2008-01-30 15:21:36

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#5 2008-01-30 15:29:58

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Marc,

That was the type of response I was looking for. The awareness of English shirts in the US now compared to 5 years ago is huge because of Pink and Tyrwhitt, obvioulsy their quality is not very good. I am studying for this project to see if people would pay a premium for a real English shirt, made in an English workshop. Just $40-$50 more than Pink but with the best fabrics. However, cheaper than an Italian shirt which sells for $250, say Zegna. Yes, the price would be between Turnbull and Pink. By the way supposedly Willis and Budd have the shirts made by the same manufacturer for RTW, I can't speak for MTM. There is only one excellent production maker in England. What do you think of the quality of a Coles shirt compared to Emma's out of curiosity? Thanks

 

#6 2008-01-30 15:52:08

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#7 2008-01-30 16:02:19

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Very good point, the Made in England designation and cloth was to put distance between Pink, but what they have done for the English style shirt market in the US is amazing. The idea is to provide a real English shirt to the American public, the only one doing this is Turnbull, and not many people know them or have access to their stores in NYC and California. A US based person cannot buy on the UK site do to the price arbitrage in the UK and US. The problem with wholesale to a Neiman or Bergdorf is the fact that one could sell the shirt on their own for $190 on the net and in their own stores. To wholesale it would drive the cost up to over $300 since everyone needs to meet their margins. That being said a shirt the quality of say a coles could be sold wholesale so the final price would be around $220. Although I don't know if wholesale is the way to go.

 

#8 2008-01-30 16:06:24

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

The problem is also creating brand awareness, we are looking at the Made in UK angle as a hook, that is how the shirt is special. Otherwise why would one buy a shirt from a new label, even if it is thomas mason or alumo fabric, if it is made in a third world country?

 

#9 2008-01-30 16:32:47

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#10 2008-01-30 16:34:00

mafoofan
Member
From: Chicago, IL USA
Posts: 328

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

I think the "Made in UK" label has less value in the market than the prestigious reputations of makers like Turnbull; they don't make the best shirts, but people still flock to them. You make capture some buyers that are more shirt-savvy, but in NY, you'll be competing with makers like Geneva and Paris, who provide a quality bespoke product in the price range you're talking about.

I wonder if you can build enough prestige through marketing (like Pink), without pushing prices too high and losing your edge.

 

#11 2008-01-30 16:41:13

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Only a very small fraction of younger men actually get mtm or bespoke, or want to wait for them, like people on this board, people like instant gratification it seems. The average man who spends alot of money on clothes still buys off the rack, that's how new brands in NYC can charge $400 off the rack for a shirt and have no problem selling them. Most men like to buy in bulk as well and online, this is where my thinking is coming from. But I see your point to young people not caring where things are made, its just once you cross a certain price point, people seem to care more about cloth, make, etc.

 

#12 2008-01-30 16:42:56

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Can you make a shirt authentically English not being made there without a huge marketing budget. Remember at one time Pink was made in the UK and made a decent shirt. Tyrwhitt made in the UK at one time as well. Once the brand was established they did a switched suppliers for better margins, like all companies do.

 

#13 2008-01-30 16:48:38

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#14 2008-01-30 16:50:49

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Paris is much more expensive than $190 and that is a custom shirt sold out of a work room. I am researching creating a new brand, for the up scale consumer OTR. Zegna and other Italian makers make so so OTR but get near $300 a shirt for them, some not made in Italy. Americans have a bad bad habit my research shows of equating quality with price. We all know great shirtmakers at a great price, most consumers even highly educated ones with deep pockets do not. I guess it is riding pink's shirttales but having a vastly superior product for 25% more in price available for general purchase.

 

#15 2008-01-30 16:54:10

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Yes Marc you are correct. I am trying to bring a real English shirt, with real English styled fabrics, to the market. Available for those who have been awakened by Tyrwhitt and Pink, but now could get the real thing. As if you don't search out the British makers you won't find them as they don't advertise. Geneva and Paris has no place in this conversation. Yes nobody asks where Hilditch is made as it is established. If a new guy came on the scene with a great shirt, equal or better quality than Hilditch but made in Asia would that be a problem? I see using an English manufacturer as a way to get past this point, as for a new brand people might care where it is made.

 

#16 2008-01-30 17:22:09

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#17 2008-01-30 17:22:59

mafoofan
Member
From: Chicago, IL USA
Posts: 328

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

 

#18 2008-01-30 17:30:47

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#19 2008-01-30 17:41:11

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Yes,

MTM and bespoke is growing so true, however, many many parts of a man's wardrobe are bought by the woman in their life, anytime I go into Pink it is half ladies buying for men in their lives. That's why I was thinking of doing an MTM online, kinda like Emma, although like you said it has pitfalls. MTM companies are so spread out though and have no advertising obviously, its more of a local thing. Those that are online and cheaper and asian based and hit or miss, this is where the British quality control comes in. The point you make about the dude you could have gotten pink is so true. Why are these professions full of alot of idiots? I work in it so I know, the person is either brilliant and worldly or totally a fratboy idiot. But bespoke is returning, its just that it is a tiny sliver of the $3 billion a year mens shirt industry in the US.

 

#20 2008-01-30 17:43:06

sta123
Member
Posts: 20

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

I would have to use a marketing strategy similar to J McLaughlin and Vineyard Vines but apply it to a different product. Targeting a certain audience works wonders.

 

#21 2008-01-30 19:34:18

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#22 2008-01-31 02:02:14

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

As an Anglophile, the Made in England thing or the Made in Scotland tag has appeal.  How much, I'm not certain.

But esp. for products of an "English" heritage like Barbour or Wellies or whatever. 

Thos Pink to me seems an amazing indication of the fact that American consumers eat this up without necessity of any substance attached to the product.

Just the other day, someone told me, oh, I get my shirts from Thos. Pink, a very high quality English shirtmaker. That this person employed the phrase "shirtmaker" was interesting not to mention that belief that the quality was high.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2008-01-31 02:04:06

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

re:  comments on pitfalls of mtm on-line.

Can you imagine the legion of idiotas you'd have to deal with after they improperly measured themselves and claimed it was your fault?


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#24 2008-01-31 12:50:03

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts

Coincidentally, Jim Cramer just boasted on CNBC that he is wearing today a Pink shirt that he purchased on sale for half off.


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#25 2008-01-31 12:52:37

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Made in England or UK Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

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