I like a Blazer dressed down these days and a Herringbone jacket dressed up... I think.
I feel inane.
I'm going away.
Hi everyone, was busy again in travelling across Germany.
French tailoring (to put it in a nutshell) looks like a mixture of English and Italien. The silhouette is more square than the English cut and very similar to the Northern Italian cut. It is very different from la sartoria napoletana. Not soft. The workmanship is usually very good. Good and typical French (or rather Parisian) tailoring can be found at Arny's, Lanvin (bespoke department) or Charvet (yes, they make suits as well). Cifonelli (Paris branch) is basically a Roman tailor. Very French (if you like it or not) is Smalto (by origin Italian).
I know of "Zum Jockey Club" in Vienna. To my knowledge their shirts, dressing gowns etc. are not handmade in the southern Italian sense. Never tried them. My favourite tailor in Vienna is Netousek (www.netousek.at). They make uniforms for the "Wiener Hofreitschule" as well.
There are other options -- my tailor used the buttons from Rutgers Prep school in NJ, which although brass-backed are primarily black.
Mr. Roetzel. Do you consider clothes to be a hobby or a lifestyle? Do you find that you look forward to wearing tailored clothes just about every day or once you acquire the clothes do you simply take them for granted as part of your wardrobe? By looking forward to them, I mean do you think about what you will wear for the next day and do you look forward to wearing certain items whether they are new acquisitions or a favorite older article?
I would also like to hear which fabrics, weights, and finishes you prefer for suits and odd jackets. Do you have a favorite shirt fabric?
Hi
I look forward to ordering, fitting and finally receivend (the finished) bespoke garments. Once I have them I wear them like any other garment. I treat my clothes with respect but I do not make myself a slave to their value. I also wear them a lot when I feel like it. No use in saving them for special occasions. My wardrobe is smaller than many people would expect but well planned. I have everything for every season and every occasion.
I do my writing from home and at my desk I wear casual clothes. I am not the type to wear suit and tie or sportsjacket at home nor do I pretend to be. I am not the type to sit at home in a silk dressing gown. I live today and not in the 1920s although I respect everyone who prefers a very classic type of homewear. It is not for me though.
I wear my tailored clothes when I meet editors, do interviews or hold courses or lectures. My audience always has very high expectations that is why I feel best in my Savile Row clothes. Over the last years I have found good matches of suits, shirt, tie, shoe and pockethandkerchief that I use almost all of the time. As most of my audiences see me only once in a while or even never again or at least years later no one knows that I wear a certain suit always in the same season. If someone followed me for one year he'd probably be bored to death. I myself don't mind because my appreciation of garment doesn't change with the frequency of me wearing it. It makes my life (and packing) easier when I grab the same items always.
I guess I would have a different attitude towards my clothes if had to work in an office everyday again. You usually feel obliged to entertain and impress your colleagues which I don't have to do on a daily basis. Due to my constant professional contact with clothes I have somehow lost the enthusiasm for shopping. When you know where most of the stuff comes from you lose some illusions and if you know wholesale prices you hardly shop in shops anymore either (I get most of the accessories, shoes etc. directly from the suppliers). This is a pity but even in foreign countries I tend to look at the things from a professional viewpoint. Nevertheless ordering bespoke clothes is still great fun.
If I had the time and the money I would probably order a suit every third or fourth month from different tailors so just for the fun of the fittings. One thing I have learned from experience is this: If you try a new tailor and the first suit is exactly what you wanted or even better then don't order more. The first suit that John Coggin made for me was perfect and I kept on ordering without regret but still I believe that you lose some of the fun with every new garment you order. Maybe this theory may seem strange I but I always liked the thought of having a wardrobe where each suit is from a different tailor.
What do you think?
I agree with Mr.Roetzel on the idea of trying different tailors for bespoke experiences. I mentioned in this forum about a very knowledgeable Japanese colleague who had a very very good Japanese tailor but still tried different tailors from all over the world. I once asked him why and his reply was why go to the same hooker, even if she can satisfy you in every way, when there're so many choices out there.
I myself never commissioned more than 3 orders from any given tailor. Even then they're totally different types of things such as 2 buttons single breasted suit, 3 buttons tweed jacket, double breasted suit, morning suit or overcoat etc.
Good book, I wish more books were as well illustrated.
Maybe BR will drop in here again, soon.
*****
Does anyone identify what brand of shoes are used as the "Wildsmith loafer" on the page on suede shoes? (They are not Edward Greens, that much I am certain.) The proportions look just right to my eye, but I have not seen anything the same recently when searching around.
TV
^ Mr Roetzel was kind enough to tell me (by e-mail) that the "Wildsmith" loafer depicted in his book was a Church's model and was photographed at their facilities in Northhampton. He doesn't know the model/style, although he suspects it may have been a sample from a discontinued model.
TV
^ My mistake, those are apparently the "Salisbury" model. So we still don't know which ones Roetzel photographed for his book.
Last edited by Bishop of Briggs (2009-05-04 14:03:04)