Try to find quality sources of cloth so that you're working on a level playing field what with the myriad of cloth patterns, weights and textures.  In addition to Holland & Sherry, these two sources offer high-quality cloth...

http://www.hlesser.co.uk/
http://www.hfw-huddersfield.co.uk/

These are English-based firms distributing cloth that, for the most part, is produced in the UK, in Huddersfield and other locations.  English-produced cloth is a sound way to go for quality cloth.  In the long run, it really pays to invest in high-quality cloth.  Practically speaking, my advice is to avoid the very lightweight cloth that has been in vogue (superfine) because it generally wrinkles and creases easily, which will not look very flattering over the course of the day.  Plus, you'll be spending more money on dry cleaning and pressing.  Presumably, you'll want to get the most use out of your suits and so staying within a moderate range of cloth weight would serve you well.  Give or take, the 10 oz to 12 oz range is a good range for a much of the year, with 12 oz slightly better suited for cooler climates.  In terms of pattern selection, for your first few suits, keep it simple: solid grey and blue, grey and blue pinstripes.  For spring and summer, lighter colors such as tan could work for you.  For a basic set of suits, you should keep it conservative because don't want anyone to say, "Oh, he's wearing that brown suit with the blue stripes again"   It's nice to have versatility but still within a lowkey range of cloth.  Lastly, textures: Two basic textures are "wooly" cloth and "worsted" cloth.  Wooly cloth is, well, woolier (flannel, for example) while worsted wool has a tight, smooth texture.  My preference for business suits, at least starting out, is worsted wool as it's more comfortable and easier to maintain.  Hope this helps!

Thanks for the advice you three. I am feeling a little more confident.

Out here in Abu Dhabi cloth is dirt cheap. Anything from ten quid ($20) upwards to about forty quid ($80) a yard. This includes cloths with Cashmere and Merino. (Some do say "with Merino" which does lead one to wonder what it has been blended with.) I have seen names such Lesser and Dormeuil on the edges of the cloths. Too. At these prices would these be the fakes that you are warning about or are they just ends oflines that they couldn't shift in the West?  The ones with the names on ahve appeared to be pretty good quality.

Not all of the cloth shops have "books" of cloth (bunches?) and just throw the cloth out in front of you. Should I avoid and go by the book? I think then I will no the weights of the cloth too.

Silk is also extremely cheap too. I found some beautiful dark copper silk with which to line the suit I am currently having tailored (Midnight blue, small herringbone with a very faint grey chalk strip) only for the tailor to tell me that he couldn't use it as a lining as it wouldn't last the life of the suit. It was also very thick and would have interfered with how the jacket hunng. Trusting him I left him to find a suitable silk of the same colour. Perhaps I will have this made into a waistcoat.