The thing that makes Bill's worth it is that there are not that many options for unhemmed khakis.  The ivy guys hate this but it's trad to cuff the plain front khakis.  For me the Berles and their private label cousins at Press and O'Connells don't fit worth a damn.  That leaves Bills.

For what it's worth, I've settled on the Orvis "Signature" (formerly "Ultimate") khakis as the best choice for me:

http://www.orvis.com/store/product_choice.asp?pf_id=73X2&dir_id=885&group_id=898&cat_id=9303&subcat_id=9304&feature_id=18&bhcp=1

They are 8.5 oz twill, not overly prewashed, and not "treated" (i.e. plasticized).  The legs are straighter than Bills, and they will cuff to your specs (with a 1.5" hem, but that's fine for me).  They're also cheaper than Bills, though still probably $20 more than they should be.

In the minus column, they're in even sizes only & don't have an alterable waistband.  Also, they're made in Macao or somesuch place.

I've had poor luck with Bean's chinos, but others seem to like 'em.

EGF

J. Crew Essential Chinos are cheap, come in a slim fit, and can be ordered unfinished. They're my chino of choice.

What I'd like to find is a slim fit chino with a button fly. No luck as of yet.

Archie