I saw someone the other day in a three button grey flannel chalk stripe suit with a salmon pink shirt with white chalk stripes and a black knit, square bottomed tie with a tir bar horizontally across it. He looked very well dressed and comfortable. You forget how nicely those knit ties look because they are thin and elegant with a lot of texture. it's a unique look and for work the darker shades of black, navy, burgundy and even a dark purple will always look smart.
Will the Sublime offers this
http://bp1.blogger.com/_Wbd-uMYmb_4/R9msjNVGW0I/AAAAAAAACRE/W_V1lzEY3NA/s1600-h/luca+di+Montezemolo.jpg
One can do a whole lot worse than that combination. And notice how he turns two trad icons (OCBD and silk knit) into a wholly non-trad ensemble that still references the American Patrician. Yet, it is not stuffy trad. It is young, fresh and visually pleasing because of the mix of solids against the stripes...
Most of all, while rich in peritextuality, it is no way mockery, costume or dress up.
And that, children, is what we call Nutella trad.
Last edited by flannel (2008-03-17 06:22:58)
I like this very much. Very good analysis too, Sir.
I must get some Nutella...
Classic example of the juvenile look as rebellion - it works if integrated into an otherwise more traditional milieu. That is Luca Cordero di Montezemolo (no fear of belonging to the bourgeoisie there) showing off one of 'his' beloved Quattroporte ('his' in quotes as he runs the company) to Carlo Azeglio Ciampi (formerly of Piazza del Quirinale, 1).
The whole look is fully 'Italian Boardroom', with the serious double breasted suit in the usual grigio metallizzato of Loro Piana. Notice how prim the shoes are. Contrast it all with the long hair, and suddendly the American touches take on a new meaning. Here is someone who has gone to school in the US and brought it all back with him, then melded it into the Italian tradition. Diomio! he might even speak English!
In short, it stands for being different, as opposed to AAAT's harkening for a dress code.
And we've come full circle to your old friend in Paris.
Mine are all shorter than most regular ties. I think they look better a good inch or two above the beltline.
Last edited by eg (2008-03-18 08:35:26)
Great post. I have many vintage Rooster and Wembley knit ties--wear them all the time.
^^^ I neither knew that yachtie had been wearing that same suit for so long, nor that he had converted to more subtle ties.