Hi guys, I am going to be in Hong Kong dor the first time for five days this summer. I would like to get a suit and some shirts made. I have been doing some research and it seems like Chan, Gordon Yao, and A-man are the best bets in terms of quality. I definitely need a place that speaks english (I speak no cantonese) and I would like a place that does some sort of US trips or at least that I could order pieces in the future without going all the way to hong kong. Does anyone have experience with these three tailors that could give opinions on them? How do they relate to each other in terms of quality, price, and style? Do they all make shirts and would I be better off going to ascot chang for that? Does anyone have contact information because I have only been able to find Chan's since they seem to be the only one with a website. Are there any other tailors that I should consider that are on this quality level? Also this will be in the middle of a 3.5 month around the world trip so i will not have a suit jacket with me to bring, would any of them view this as a problem. I really appreciate any advice and knowledge people can give me.
I've been a customer at A Man for a good while now. Been very happy with what I've gotten made up there. When the suit wasn't what I wanted, it was because I didn't know what I wanted, exactly. Or didn't express certain details. Also got shirts made up from Ascot Chang in the Prince's building, near A Man. Those were fine. They messed up on monograms once. I recently saw someone I know whose been an A Man customer forever and his suit was incredible. In the SR style. The stuff I've seen from them lately has been very good. Esp. the really heavy fabrics, which I love. I think one tailor or "fitter" there nails fit perfectly if the few people I know who see him are any indication. I was surprised to see a recent fora-review state that A Man is wanting in English fabrics or heavy fabrics, as that hasn't been my experience, or the relatively recent experience of friends. I saw some English camel hair and camel/cashmere blends that were simply astounding. Don't know Yao. As for Chan, Capt. Prep has some experience with them, as do others, on Styleforum I think. I wonder if Chan's popularity isn't due, to a remarkable extent, to the forums? I know many are happy with Chan, but I have no desire to switch from A Man. I know people who get knock-about stuff from Sam's still. I knew people who hit up Sams for shirts in the 70's. Maybe they are touristy, but I knew mid-level Brit expats who favored them. How they are now, I don't know.
My last suits from A Man were around the time of the hand over. They were about $1000 or so, if I recall. Prices are more now, I'm told. I put pics of two of my suits up here. One an attempt at Cary Grant NxNW and the other with I think Smith's blue flannel. A 3 piece with beautiful trou and waistcoat.
My sole experience with Hong Kong tailors has been with W.W. Chan from their U.S tours. So far I have purchased one suit, nine jackets and five shirts from them, and I have two jackets on order from their just-concluded U.S. tour, and I hope to get as many as three more jackets before retirement next year curbs my sartorial acquistiveness to some degree. Obviously, I am an extremely satisfied customer of theirs.
Most knowledgeable commentators on HK tailoring rate Chan, Ah-Man and Yao about equally. There is also H. Baroman. Baroman is sometimes likened to Oxxford--outstanding workmanship, stodgy, lackluster styling. I believe Baroman is somewhat more expensive than the other three tailoring establishments mentioned.
Chan regularly tours the USA three times a year--March, July and November. Yao tours with Ascot Chang although I don't know how frequently. To best of my knowledge, neither Ah-Man or Baroman tour the USA.
Most knowledgeable people suggest shunning Sam's, which is right downstairs from Chan.
As I have said, all that I know of HK tailoring aside from my personal experience with Chan is via the fora and thus hearsay, but I can recommend Chan very highly.
Thank you for your help thus far, it seems like all three are certainly reputable. I definitely prefer a moderate SR style, so it seems like stylistically A-man may be the best bet would that be a correct asumption. Also, i definitely prefer english cloth, would any of them be better for this? I am planning on getting two suits made. My father has a beautiful brown flannel with a white chalk stripe that i think is wonderful. I was thinking of getting a flannel chalk stripe in brown because of this. Would people say that is a bad idea? If so I would probably get a grey flannel chalk stripe (probably of more a dove variety so I could wear brown or black shoes). Would either of these be bad options, should i just go charcoal? I am thinking my second suit will be a worsted in navy or gray, perhaps a birdseye or nailhead for some texture.
YC,
I'd love to have a brown flannel chalkstripe suit. Tops on my list for next autumn. Maybe a slightly cream colored stripe instead of bright white? Just a thought.
I like that idea of the cream, I was definitely not thinking of a bright white, I prefer very subtle looking stripe, I am a verrry big guy 6'6 260 so i don't like real bright stand out stripes. I personally just really like brown flannel chalk stripe look. Its so earthy and rich looking to me (plus there are so many great ties that look good with brown IMO) but I was not sure if it was considered appropriate or attractive by others.
I have used Chan for some 20 years with great satisfaction. I used Baroman and A Man when I was in HK as well. A Man is a difficult guy to deal with, not satisfactory in my opinion. Baroman is not recommended for reasons too complicated to go into. Gordon Yao comes to the US periodically, very nice work, but inexplicably poor fitting, and poor replication of measurements. Hard to understand. A lot of shipping back and forth, cheap buttons, no lining selection, competitively priced with Chan, but without the service or attention to detail.
I favorably compare my Chan goods to those made for me by well known high priced Made Men in NY and London. In a blindfold test, I think I would choose my Chan goods over the others. You will, of course, not get the hand holding, foreplay, and perceived mystical transfer of "style" of say, a Rubinacci or even Rubinstein Bros. Chan will improve upon your Western goods, if given the chance.
They didn't speak ANY English. On my second visit to HK they started work without instructions, and thus, I was unable to make changes to the pattern from the first generation order. The business has been sold in any case. They also are considerably more expensive than the other two. They prefer to work with Chinese clients.
A Man is a family business, the son, was in charge. He farms out work, as do many other shops. He left off working button holes, each jacket had a different roll, and so on. He also feels victimized by the landlord and dwells too much on his overhead problems.
WW Chan, strictly business, ethical, and they want you to be happy. What more can you ask?
what is Chan like stylistically? How is their fabric selection. I have heard that they use a lot of italian fabric but I tend to prefer the finishing on english fabrics. Is chan a good place to get shirts as well as suits?
No shirts from Chan, they subcontract. Fabrics are the usual suspects; their house style is whatever you want. I suggest have them copy something you like that you already have; they are not stylists, read: Rubinacci. It's your responsibility to tell them if you want, for example, three sleeves. They will do what you want. Beyond that just see them and work it out. Their Harrison's/Porter and Harding takes time for them to acquire, so you might want to choose some cloth in advance of a visit to HK
Anent Chan's selection of British fabrics, they make available lots of Charles Clayton (which I know some forum mavens regard as not being first-tier), lots of Holland & Sherry, some Scabal, recently some Lesser as well as the aforementioned Harrison's/Porter & Harding and possibly some others. How many of these they have in-stock at HK, I don't know. If you fancy, say, an 18-ounce thornproof tweed, it might be prudent to make arrangements in advance. On their tours, they seem to be featuring more British fabrics, fewer Italian.
Like some little person who doesn't want to waste his money, all these post lead you into a wilderness. Who knows. I know who the best people on the forum (MG and FNB) recommend, but I can't afford their tailors.
You want to spent the money, I think I lean to horace at Andover, the guy at LS in NYC and I remeber from AAAC people spoke highly of I think Mr. Sid. (do I have that one right?).
Us clothes horses on a budget do have to worry about where our money goes. The idea of New England was you can spend money on stuff that lasts a life time. I do worry when I read posts like this.
Tom22, i find your post to be a bit harsh. I do not think it is anyone's place to make moral statements or assumptions about others on these boards. Not to mention that I do not think the idea of New England has anything to do with getting clothes that last a lifetime. I too worry about where my money goes as a 24 year old who will be starting law school next year. However, I am also 6'6" tall and 260 Lbs, I cannot walk into Horace at Andover and get anything that is even close to fitting. I am not flying to Hong Kong just to get clothes made. I will be in the middle of a three month trip and it seems like it would be a good idea to take the opportunity get some clothes made that fit considering I will be in a profession that demands wearing suits every day.
I appreciate all the feedback thus far from everyone on this post. It seems as though Chan, Yao, and AMHC are all reputable tailors who the majority have had some success with and I probably will not go wrong with any of them. I have no idea how I will decide who to use yet. I will probably be staying on the Hong Kong Island side which makes trips for fittings more convenient at AMHC but I do like that the other two make trips to the U.S.A. I like scabal cloth so it seems like I will be able to get some quality British cloth at any of the three. My only worry is that I will not have a jacket with me on this trip so hopefully the tailors will not have a problem with the way I will have to be dressed when I show up.
OMG, your responces are way out of line.
I think my question was: are these guys worth the money? It was an honest question.
I think FNB and MG's tailors are over 3 grand in price. I sure think a Hong Kong tailor should be a third less. But maybe today I have no clue. I meant no insult and given the 40% decline in the dollar since January 2001 I have no idea of what prices go for. I am simply trying to figure out a decent value for my dollar. If the answer lies in HK, I would love to know that. I think I am being accused of tastes which I do not maintain.
If I knew of a reliable custom tailor who sells suits for under a grand I would patronize him. If there is no such person, I will settle for JPress tweed jackets and possibly some MTM firm in the states. My question really relates to the value of a custom made suit. The people whose opinions I trust on this site have a collection of horror stories. My thought is to trust Brooks MTM at this point. But I have no idea of the price of HK tailoring these days.
Last edited by tom22 (2008-04-02 22:31:53)
totally misunderstood what you were saying your original post and totally agree with what you are saying in that post.
and if these guys charge 3 grand a suit, screw them. you are better off trusting the tailors of the people who created this place.
I don't know the dollars, I don't know the value. I have read all the posts on this thread. i would appreciate some enlightenment.
from what I have gathered all three start around 900 for a suit of their house or standard cloths. scabal around 1300 or 1400. Agree that is there were charging 3 or 4 grand I would not bother as the NYC options are better in that range.
Yale,
HK is just a small city, from AMHC to Chan is just 15mins by underground and walk, inclusive.
Both house have a lot of tourist customers, so they used to deal with causal wear westerners.
But for better fitting, do wear or bring a shirt.
IMO, Chan may be a better choice to you if you will not come back to HK. You can always catch Patick in States during their tour.
Too bad they don't do CMT, since I know where to buy Scabal fabrics much cheaper than ordered it from houses.
As a citizens of Hong Kong, I know many tailors are craps. But those houses Yale mentions are the best tailor houses in HK. For that price, it is very diffcult to find something better.
Scabal in Chan is charing 1300+, AMHC charing more or less same price, but if I bought my own fabric and CMT at AMHC or Yao, it cost me little bit under 1000. It is a big saving, isn't it? You can have 2 or 3 shirts made in A. Chang for that saving.
Yale, go to whatever tailor you choose on the 1st day arrived in HK, take the measuement that day, ask for the 1st fitting tomorrow, then the 2nd fitting at the last day in HK, it will give you a better fitting suit.
I'm out of touch with the pricing right now. I'll find out what guys I know paid last time they went, if you want. I know one guy got a beautiful camel hair recently. And I saw someone else who got a damn fine SR cut suit out of some somewhat substantial wool. It had to have been one of the most beautifully cut suits I'd ever seen -- specifically in relation to the guy's body which wasn't exactly "model material".
Last edited by Horace (2008-04-08 01:41:36)