Bulgari for the drape, but many of the designs are too forward for my taste
Charvet, because you can order just about anything made the way you want it
Nicky, because it's a fine combination of construction and styling

A subjective neckwear analysis  *

Rubinacci: Uncomprised quality.  Although, the fabric selection is not expansive as E. Marinella, quality is phenomenal.  Also, a Rubinacci cravata makes a beautiful knot.

E. Marinella: Extensive collection.  Wool, cashmere, silk, etcetera you name it Marinella has it whether in showroom or depot.  IMO, does not make an immense knot, but Je adore their classic pattern. 

Charvet: Unique gem.  Charvet’s fabrics are both exclusive & exceptionally durable.

*Honorable mention: Ermenegildo Zegna: Consistently provides interesting patterns each season.

The problem of Charvet's use of a label instead of a keeper is solved by bespeaking ties from them There is only a nominal upcharge and they know how to make a very nice keeper. They were a bit taken aback when I first ordered them that way because "we use a silk label so it functions as a keeper." Not.

The difficulty is that you have to get to Paris periodically so you know what silks to order.

It's my understanding that Drake's makes a minority of Marinella ties but provides many of the silks. Most of their ties are sewn in the back room in Naples.

Last edited by Will (2006-11-18 16:06:35)

The Italian jeweler, Bulgari, also does a rather nice seven-fold.

Altea of Italy is a small maker with quality goods.

Last edited by Incroyable (2006-06-04 20:43:04)

I like all three of the following brands for the quality of the silks and the tight four in hands they allow me to tie.

Marinella

Robert Talbott (7 fold, BOC)

Brioni

Highjacking this thread would provide me with the perfect vehicle for an essay I’ve been wanting to write about the apparel I prefer in general.  But I’ll refrain, and just provide this little exposition.  My preferences in ties, as with all wearables, are only rarely and never consistently, governed by brand/maker.  That factor is so unimportant to me, except to the extent that it may on occasion be an indicator of the factors I do value, that I simply am not concerned with it. This is so even though virtually everything sartorial that I own is purchased RTW, and I still harbor some hope for the ever-fading retail men’s wear business.

What does concern me, and this applies fully to ties, are the qualities that make an item worthwhile, at least in my view:  fit, construction, materials, value, and service.  These qualities apply to my ties as follows.

Fit: To fit me properly, i.e., to reach the length I prefer with the front blade just overlapping the waist band of my trousers and the rear blade extending a half inch to an inch less far, the overall length of my ties is between 55 and 57 inches, give or take.  The thickness of the tie, which governs the amount of the tie taken up by the knot, is the variable here.

Construction: No secret here; the more hand work the better.  At a minimum, the slip stitch, keeper, label, and bar tacks should all be installed by hand, and there should be no evidence that any machine pressing has ever been applied to the finished tie.  I prefer to tie a rather slender, compact four-in-hand knot, regardless of shirt collar style, and that requires, depending on the width of the tie at its widest point, a significant taper or a bottle shape.  It also requires that the tie not be very thick, and my preferred way to accomplish this is with a thin lining, all wool preferred.

Material: Virtually all of my ties are silk, divided about equally between woven and printed.  In addition, I have a dozen or so silk knits and a few wool/silk challis.  I buy by the hand of the material, which generally translates to heavier weight or density and a soft finish, though I do enjoy a few very light silk crepes.  I insist on deep, rich, true colors, whether in the yarn of a woven or knitted tie or the patterns of a print. These qualities are necessary whether the tone of the tie is light, dark, or in between.

Value: The closer a tie approaches perfection in the above qualities, the more I’m happy to pay.  I find, however, that it is rarely necessary to pay full retail.  Excellent ties are almost always on sale.  When I see something I like, I buy it against future use rather than waiting to satisfy a particular need.  Indeed, I think the best combinations are more often spontaneous than planned and are facilitated by the mating of elements acquired at disparate times.

Service: I remember a time when the purchase of any item of apparel, save perhaps underwear or athletic gear, would occasion the offer, “May I show you some ties that might go well with that?”  It’s not that I need, or even particularly want such assistance, but when I see someone who both makes the offer and can act competently on it, I’m more inclined to support the effort with a purchase.

I could go on, but I already have.