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#1 2008-04-04 06:29:29

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

http://query.nytimes.com/gst/fullpage.html?res=9A01E4DD143FF935A1575AC0A96F958260


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#2 2008-04-04 07:01:41

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

He's not the only tailor who has said that, and learned as a child the trade.

 

#3 2008-04-04 13:39:21

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

I note the old boy says it takes him 560 hours to make a suit, yet he is charging $2,500 for a suit at his current locale. If you subtract something for materials, that means he is making somewhat less than $4 an hour. Is tailoring in the USA really that unremunerative? Also, assuming he worked 10-hour days, he couldn't make more than six suits a year. Is this realistic?

 

#4 2008-04-04 13:43:07

Fogey
Member
Posts: 228

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

^ one hopes that 560 is a typographical error. That presumes working ten-hour days, seven-days per week, for two months straight. Surely not.

 

#5 2008-04-04 15:01:29

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#6 2008-04-04 15:18:29

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

I always thought a tailor could make a suit in a day's work?

560 hours is a bit of flourish.


I understand Turkey is a source of skilled tailors as well.

 

#7 2008-04-04 15:42:06

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#8 2008-04-04 16:02:36

iammatt
Member
Posts: 520

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

 

#9 2008-04-04 16:09:24

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

 

#10 2008-04-04 16:15:21

Richmond Hill
Member
Posts: 138

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

I have a limited knowledge of bespoke tailoring and I was always lead to believe that the estimate is in between 30 to 50 hours labour. This would be split between the tailor/cutter and other less skilled workers.

A bespoke suit in London from a good quality backstreet tailor in Soho can cost £500 + if you supply the cloth. You get a measure, one or two fittings and final adjustments. The end product is unique in design and fit. People that you pass in the street will not be aware of this rarity, but you will, which is far more important.

I would estimate that a good tailor can complete between one or two suits per week. He would not earn a King's Ransom, but a tailor with a good reputation can earn a reasonable living.

A Saville Rowsuit will cost you £2,000 plus, but you are paying for labour of the highest quality, sky high rents and the SR experience that no back street tailor in Soho can ever give you. You pays your money and takes your choice.

I personally think that they both offer value for money for what you get.

I choose the former, because I generally know exactly what I want and I enjoy the leg work sourcing my cloth, lining buttons etc. Using this cheaper method you have to be more creative and know what you want and instuct the tailor how you want it finished. With a suit or a jacket there are not so many features to remember, but when they are all combined, the result is very special.

What I don't think is value for money is a £900+ RTW, "designer" (lower case d intentional) suit with fused lining and fully machine finished and one of a thousand pieces in various sizes. A large portion of this cost is marketing hype and global advertising. There are a few Design (upper case D intentional) house who have signature cloth, which does make the finished product special and justifies the price tag.

With bespoke you won't get fancy designer label, but you could have your own. Beat that

RH

 

#11 2008-04-04 16:56:27

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#12 2008-04-04 23:49:56

Richmond Hill
Member
Posts: 138

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

Thanks for the comment.

Sorry, I should have put generally you get labour is of the highest quality. It is difficult to know the inner workings of an SR taillor. Many use outworkers in Soho and I would think that there are very few SR firms who fabricate 100% on premise. I would assume that the outworkers sourced would be of the best quality at that given time.

Second thought on hand finish against machine. It is better to have a well machined garment than a poorly executed hand finish. That is why it is always best to inspect work in preparation before making a commitment.

RH

 

#13 2008-04-08 22:01:27

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13195

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

Anyone know what tailor Alden uses?  Alden loves heaps of handwork, so whoever it is must be pretty flexible when making the suit.

Yes, the 560 hours would probably be 56 or 60 hours. No-one is going to spend 560 hours on a suit.

 

#14 2008-04-09 17:31:00

Sator
Member
Posts: 283

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

A local tailor told me they used to have tailoring classes at a technical institute but that they have ceased due to lack of demand. In its heyday the classes were full. Now everyone wants to become a "designer" who makes silly doodles of a design without the foggiest notion of how to realise it.


http://www.cutterandtailor.com/forum

 

#15 2008-04-10 09:17:46

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

 

#16 2008-04-10 09:23:30

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#17 2008-04-10 09:29:20

Tony Ventresca
Member
Posts: 5132

Re: Tailor Fears Future Of Craft

 

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