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#1 2008-04-09 01:07:29

tailor in style
New member
Posts: 4

Mens Dress Shirts

I personally think that mens dress shirts are the most important part of the mans wardrobe.

I am currently well into the process of writing a book with a few shirt experts about mens shirts.

It would be incredible to hear from all of you clothing enthusiasts what you find most interesting about mens shirts.

Please list three topics that you personally find interesting... it can be anything related to shirts...


Regards,

Peter

 

#2 2008-04-09 03:01:51

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

l agree that shirts are the most important part of a mans wardrobe. BTW, l like your site.

1.  What l find interesting is how most people don't value the shirt collar or shirt in general. People under-rate it so much and people seem to have the attitude that a cheap chinese shirt is enough (this poor attitude is not so much present with ties or suits). Shirt collars should be balanced and clean when worn, but we see so many wearing unbalanced poorly fitting poorly cut collars, and often collars that are quite ruffled. You see very few people with nice well cut collars that fit right. Contrast this to a suit collar. A suit collar is much even and tidy when worn, but the shirt collars usually show there faults more in this area, especially when worn without a tie.


2.  Another thing l find interesting is about tailoring of RTW. People are more likely to get a suit tailored than a shirt. l think that's because the percentage cost increase is much higher with a shirt than a suit. Eg; $4,000 suit with $400 worth of tailoring...therefore 10%.  $400 Shirt with $100 worth of tailoring....therefore 25%.  lt may also have something to do with peoples inablity to judge the fit of a shirt as well as the fit of a suit. Another point on tailoring: a shirt has less fabric to work with than a suit because a suit can be let out slightly where-as a shirt can't.

3.  Shirts are seen as less significant. l get the feeling that people feel that they are just simple cotton things that are secondary in rank to suits. Afterall, the shirt is worn under the jacket.

4.  l think a shirt can make or break a suit. lf the suit is average quality, a man can still look smashing if he has a good quality well fitting shirt. But if a man wears a smashing handmade suit and has a cheap poorly cut shirt, then the whole suit ensemble is ruined because a trained eye can't get past the ugly shirt.


l refuse to buy RTW shirts anymore.

Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-09 06:13:45)

 

#3 2008-04-09 07:15:19

eric glennie
Member
Posts: 67

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

This is just my opinion.  I believe the shirt  is underappreciated and is more important than a suit in creating a style.    I believe the neckline ( collar and tie knot ) is the focal point of any suit and the variety of neckline styles create the look.  The color of the shirt enhances a style by contrasting or complementing the color out of the the suit and facial skin.  The suit jacket is the shell or covering of the look, whereas the shirt is the nut feeding the soul with variety.    Therefore,  I believe the $100 shirt is more important than the $4000 suit in creating the look and expessing individuality.   
www.ericglennie.com

Last edited by eric glennie (2008-04-09 07:49:27)

 

#4 2008-04-09 07:47:34

Admiral Cod
Member
Posts: 412

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

I think dress shirts are disposable items (an opinion I first read here at FNB) and are therefore overrated. 

Of course I do like nice patterns and colours, and I prefer my shirts to fit well, but I'm not going to give them undue thought.

I'd rather focus on suits ,odd jackets, and shoos.


"You will find that men of style and their adherents are considered either political enemies of the people or reckless, gluttoness consumers while most live in squalor" - FNB

 

#5 2008-04-09 09:34:45

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

Well, I like shirts and I think that a lot of the guys here like shirts. They may be disposable depending on your income but still they are very enjoyable to have, get made and discuss. Like ties, you have a lot more latitude with shirts than you do with suits. Also, theres the cost. Most shirtmakers allow you to get about 8-10 shirts for the same price as a custom suit. So there's variety to consider.

 

#6 2008-04-09 10:00:09

flannel
Member
Posts: 155

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

You might want to refer to one of FNB's nice essays on shirts here in the essay section, about the English and their shirts.

Macro distinction: the English have a fondeness for complex shirt patterns (deriving from their supposed historically limited tie repertoire), whilst all others prefer simpler choices.

As an Italian who does spend a lot of time with Brits, I would confirm that the difference really is borne out by daily observation.

 

#7 2008-04-09 10:28:02

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#8 2008-04-09 10:48:35

flannel
Member
Posts: 155

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

^ Then, Sir, I absolutely must purchase from the same source...

 

#9 2008-04-09 10:52:08

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#10 2008-04-09 14:32:31

Cruz Diez
Member
Posts: 1950

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

To me:

-The shirt collar can make or destroy an outfit

-The comfort offered by an "undershirt prohibited" shirt fabric is without compare

I take proper care of my shirts and I don't consider them any more disposable than a pair of trousers.

Last edited by Cruz Diez (2008-04-09 14:33:20)

 

#11 2008-04-09 15:51:23

captainpreppy
Member
Posts: 1536

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

I tend to take a very "American" approach to the dress shirt. To me it is a canvas for my jacket and my necktie. I do not spend much on shirts, and they really don't interest me greatly. I would rate the importance of garments in my typical high-end dress casual mode of attire as follows:

1. Jacket
2. Shoes
3. Necktie
4. Pocket square
5. Trousers
6. Shirt
7. Belt
8. Hose

 

#12 2008-04-09 15:52:40

Film Noir Buff
Dandy Nightmare
From: Devil's Island
Posts: 9345

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

 

#13 2008-04-09 20:20:50

tailor in style
New member
Posts: 4

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

 

#14 2008-04-09 21:45:13

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-04-09 21:52:31)


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#15 2008-04-09 22:34:23

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-10 01:53:08)

 

#16 2008-04-09 22:44:32

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-10 00:13:01)

 

#17 2008-04-10 02:16:48

flannel
Member
Posts: 155

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

I love the pictures of the Siviglia shirts, and they do reflect a cetrain type of Italian shirtmaking that is elegant (except for the Italian BD, which is just weird).

There is also another side, which is represented, for lack of a better example, by the classic Borrelli square label, that is a bit more comfortable.

The collars are single button, lower and a bit more spread.

Barba makes a wonderful collar. Here's an example.

http://cgi.ebay.com/New-325-Barba-Napoli-Shirt-17-43_W0QQitemZ140221685373QQihZ004QQcategoryZ57991QQcmdZViewItem

(btw, these are very good value at the price, esp. for those whose main revenue is in a stronger currency - for me, it's 90 EUR for a Barba shirt I can buy in an Italian store for 250-300. What do you think?)

I would agree that in general cuff and collar make the shirt. How much is a Sivilgia shirt?

 

#18 2008-04-10 02:29:28

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

Barba makes some of the nicest collars i've seen in RTW. l'd love to buy some, but i'd have all the fit issues l normally have with RTW shirts.

Yes, marcs pics of the collars say it all.

 

#19 2008-04-10 04:23:38

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#20 2008-04-10 04:53:01

flannel
Member
Posts: 155

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

 

#21 2008-04-10 05:02:11

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#22 2008-04-10 09:02:02

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#23 2008-04-10 09:34:00

flannel
Member
Posts: 155

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

That one looks very good.

It's the ones with the double button that I find counterintuitive and just plain wrong for a shirt that was born as sportswear, notwithsatnding the graceful roll and all.

Also, super high collars are not comfortable for my build and that obvioulsy colors my perception...

 

#24 2008-04-10 09:55:43

Marc Grayson
Member
Posts: 8860

Re: Mens Dress Shirts


"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not."  Oscar Wilde

 

#25 2008-04-10 22:29:03

The_Shooman
A pretty face
From: AUSTRALIA
Posts: 13191

Re: Mens Dress Shirts

 

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