I actually am a huge fan of pink stripes (and pink in general, i actually think it is very masculine) as long as the pink stripes are very soft and whitish. I also love lilac stripes, there is a nice one on Harrisons website when you click on the frontier bunch, but then again I like lilac shirts and purple ties. However, I do not think I will get anything with pink or lilac stripes until I have a number of suits in my wardrobe as I do not think it is the type of suit one can wear every week. I e-mailed Chan asking for scans of fabric from Harrison's cru classe, frontier and Lesser 9.5 oz. I will post some of the scans when I get them.
Last edited by iammatt (2008-04-10 19:48:27)
For a first order, I would go with P&H Solway or Glorious Twelves for jackets ($1000) at Chan, good for warm and autumnal wear, respectively. I personally would not go with H Lesser for a first order, if I was a law student. Of course some law students, have by passed Chan, and gone directly to Naples for their suitings...I guess anticipating going to Managing Partner directly out of law school, but I digress...
H Lesser is worthy of a perfected pattern, fit, maker. Their worsteds are without peer, in my opinion. Put an H Lesser herringbone worsted side by side with Harrison's, H&S, Scabal, and even Smith's, and with a good eye you will intuitively identify the H Lesser. They sell no shlock in the words of Paul Winston, of Chipp.
re: Lesser's 4 play lambswool jacketing, it is NOT available at Chan, and the better patterns sold out. Lesser had two different birdseye's, fabulous, but a somewhat delicate fabric: I have two jackets in that range.
I think the Italian mills are novelties, with the exception of Carlo Barbera (not Vitale Barberis). H Lesser distributes some excellent Barbera flannels, and the aforementioned lightweight jacketings, which are uniformly superb. Zegna and Loro Piana cloths are interesting but really lack the hand, durability, or refinement of patterns you see in the British mills. That said, I have some odd ball Zegna and Loro Piana cloths, for either odd jackets or odd trousers, usually blends of wool and something else. I agree with some of the earlier posts that the jacketing lacks durability, the hand is weird, etc.
One mistake I have made is using very expensive cloths with tailors initially. I regret that I did not have the knowledge or experience with the tailors, that I had with the cloths. In all scenarios though, remember Teplitz' law: never buy luxury goods from someone who knows less about it than you!
Iammatt, I actually agree to a certain extent with your post about colors. I think light gray in New York does not work well, but I here in Arizona I like it because of the sunny weather. I love earth tones in general. They look really good with my skin and hair and are great for Arizona. However, I think I need to have the more traditional grays and blues first particularly since I will be in law. I am also very jealous that you get to live in the best city in the states!
Plitz, I am never going to be working at a big law firm like a Skaden or Greenberg Traurig. I am goign into land use and will eventually be working with a couple other guys so I do not need to worry about say upstaging my boss (particularly because he is a wonderful dresser). Also, you mentioned the P and H. I think the glorius twelves are a bit heavy but would you say the solway is better than the Harrison's stuff in some way? Keep in mind if I could buy off the rack at this point I would but my dimensions mean I look ridiculous in any OTR suit.
Last edited by mafoofan (2008-04-10 20:50:32)
Mafoofan, I understand what you are saying. There are a couple reasons I am doing this now. First, I am going to be in Hong Kong so I would like to take advantage of the fact that I will be there and have the opportunity to get something that actually approaches fitting me for a decent price and in good cloth. Second, my dad wants to get a suit made in Hong Kong so we will be going to a tailor anyway (although sadly he wont be paying for my purchases . BTW, I really like the ensemble you had made in Naples, that is right up my alley in terms of colors and fabrics.
FNB you have me right on, I want ten suits and it is very hard to narrow it down to one or two! I think the most fun but hardest part about bespoke is making these decisions. I never thought about the stain issue with light gray, that is certainly something to consider. The biggest appeal of light gray to me is the versatility in being able to wear a variety of brown shoes instead of just having to wear black shoes all the time. Perhaps I could get that versatility in a mid gray and that would be better. BTW, I like it that everyone gives their true opinions, it all helps me to thoroughly think threw everything resulting in a more confident decision in the end. When I am making decisions in business I like hearing all sides whether I agree or not because it helps to think through a decision. I think the same principle applies to clothes.
^^^ Yale, I wouldn't worry about being stuck wearing black shoes with a dark grey suit. I'm waiting on a charcoal suit (Harrison's, actually), and I plan on wearing chestnut, dark brown, and cordovan #8 shoes with it.
Some people feel law is not a learned profession, so let me be more concrete: I would not invest in H Lesser Lumbs Golden Bale, for a first commission with any tailor. I test drove Gordon Yao with some less expensive Italian and English cloths. I was not happy with the results, so I saved some money. Anyone with some experience will tell you it takes several tries (at best) to get the kinks out, and there's always room for improvement. My opinion is to be very careful with expensive cloths. It is painful to see 3 1/2 yards of perfectly good H Lesser worsted transformed into something horrible.
I have been a happy customer of Logsdail, Corvato, and Chan, my shirts and trousers are bespoke in Italy. I travel to Italy and England regularly, and am fortunate enough to be able to indulge myself with this hobby. I do however have a closet full of duds, viz. Nicolosi, Dege, and early Chan, for example. These were expensive errors and a costly learning curve, for which I have myself largely to blame. Part of the game is refining the commissions.
Mr. Ma, I have no great desire to patronize London House, I find the smiling visage of the retailer off putting, and I have been solicited by this maker, since we both stay at the same Hotel in New York. My tailors don't promote their new cologne or putative lifestyle. I am suspect of any bespoke maker that heavily advertises or has to remind you how good they are (were).* That said, I like the photos I have seen from Iammatt and Uppercase. But, I think your jacket is distinctly pimplike, and that look would not inspire confidence in my profession.
*Remember the words of the Chicago sage, David Mamet: "Some people just like to talk to salesmen." (Glengarry Glenross). Me, I'd rather go downtown and talk to Mitch and Murray.
Last edited by tteplitzmd (2008-04-11 15:27:09)
Last edited by mafoofan (2008-04-11 15:18:02)
Everything's a transaction, but I didn't say I would buy clothes from Mitch and Murray.
Last edited by mafoofan (2008-04-11 15:36:39)
Better take that Bar Review Course. Your post is incoherant.
Lighten the tone in here plz.
I think for suits Americans need to take a page out of the English book. We are always worried about distinguishing ourselves with fabrics which is part of the reason we need to ave a large selection; that and the need to look different every day.
the English love looking the same all the time. They dont need hugely different fabrics.
A small thing like an angled pocket or a special lining is enough. We rely too heavily on visual shock. For the English, they are happy that they know what they have is slightly different than everyone else's.