I choose every suit these days as if it were the last one I'll ever get from my tailor. If I stay the same size it isnt that much of a problem because his suits are virtually indestructible. The first suit he ever made from me shows zero signs of wear. More likely Ill get sick of many of them and give em away.
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Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-04-14 18:35:47)
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Marc, i think that these people make these clothes out of a sense of art as much as one of commerce; actually probably more from a sense of creation. that is what allows them to keep doing it without thoughts of retirement, it isnt a job, its a hobby for them too!
Getting dupes of shirts is something i do also. However, I find with suits, whenever I get two pairs of pants, inevitably some disaster befalls the jacket.
I have also begun to concentrate on what i like which are mostly bold stripes for suits.
The age factor plays a significant role in the challenge of ferreting out an exceptional tailor. Wunderkinds are few and far between in the tailoring trade, which is why its advisable, IMO, to avoid tailors, for the most part, who are under 40. That eliminates a large number of tailors right off the bat. Age, alone, does not offer any assurance of great skill, but it does increase the chances of it. Even exceptional tailors who are older, say, in their 70s, acknowledge they continue to hone their craft. For this reason, the best combination is a seasoned tailor who also posseses tremendous skill. The downside, of course, is a shorter timeframe in which to build a wardrobe.
I am concerned about the retirement of my tailor, as I have alluded to in the past. I am at the point, however, where I am unlikely to order many more suits anyway, and the majority of my remaining commissions will be odd jackets and waistcoats.
Ultimately when he does retire I will either switch to a local guy who is younger (he made me an unlined linen coat which is OK, but more fitted than my regular tailor would make or that I would prefer) or just give it up and go with RTW for what little will remain of my career. After I retire I am not sure how much I am going to care, really.
This is a common fear and it leads to another problem. The order book is growing and because capacity is limited the time to get a suit made up is also growing. Once a tailor says there will be a three month delay people start doubling their orders because if you are waiting three months you may as well order a dozen or more. Of course this increased workload and lengthens the delay so customers place even larger orders and so it goes. Now if one of the staff retires as well (and most of them are a long way past retirement) replacing them is almost impossible...
I think the day is very near when it will be difficult to get taken on by any of the major tailors in NY as a new customer, and existing customers who haven't ordered for a year or two will be turned away.
Ginza Tailor actually runs a tailoring academy to train the next generation in the trade.