You know, I hadn't noticed the uneven hems until you guys pointed it out. I tried on the jacket again and made sure to center it properly; I think both the collar issue and uneven hems disappeared.
Last edited by mafoofan (2008-03-20 21:31:45)
Brings to mind an experience a few years back that nearly caused me to have a coronary, when I had a final fitting in New York for a shirt made by an English chap. Tried the shirt on, underneath my Raphael suit, whereupon the shirtmaker observed that the jacket collar and lapels were uneven, pointing to the disparity of space between the shirt collars and lapel/collar area on each side of the jacket. I had more than a few suits and jackets from Raph at that point and freaked at the prospect of each one having botched, uneven lapels. Plus, it was a Friday and so I was consumed with this all weekend. When Monday finally arrived, I went over to Raph to show him the issue with the apparent asymmetric lapels. Put on the new English shirt and Raph's suit and showed him how they were askew. Raph took but a moment to recognize that the SHIRT COLLAR was askew and throwing everything off, not the jacket collar and lapel. After he adjusted the shirt collar to center it, everything fell into place properly. Never did buy shirts again from that shirtmaker.
Did you show Kabazz?
Great look, the combination of colors was near perfect.
At second looks at Mr Fans jacket, l have changed my mind.
The collar ain't too good is it. The jacket collar sits very low and it doesn't hug the neck. Look at the right side of the jacket collar. Look at all that space between the shirt and the inner part of the collar. lf the collar doesn't suck the neck, there will be movement around the shoulder and in the shoulder parts. Looking at Mr Fans pic, unneccessary east to west movement will occur in the fit of the jacket. The collar is not very good. A very bad cut.
lt reminds me of Foxx's bad Kiton. lt almost reminds me of a t-shirt with the lapels stitched on. Really badly cut collars. Same goes with Oxxford. That's why those types of collars aren't meant to fit anybody (Too low and too widely cut with too much east to west movement near the collar and shoulder area).
Watch the Naples shoulders too. Bespoke handwork can pucker those suckers (it's the nature of the shoulder). My tailor has fixed heaps of that stuff (bespoke handwork gone silly and naples sholders). With handwork in a jacket, more can go wrong.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-12 06:00:03)
Aren't Neapolitan shirt collars designed to be less structured and softer than usual, what with the absence of collar stays, etc? This might contribute to the jacket collar and shirt collar not adhering to each other, but it's just conjecture on my part.
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-14 09:34:39)
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-04-14 09:54:42)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-14 10:00:18)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-04-14 10:18:13)
Last edited by The_Shooman (2008-12-23 08:24:12)
I would award points only on shameless self promotion. Dare to live the lifestyle, and so on. Service and customer satisfaction likely to be proporitonal to your buying power. Gulf clientele likely to be fawned over more than your average aspiring faux-Neapolitan i-gent.