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#1 2008-04-20 12:26:29
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
http://www.esquire.com/style/ESQ1104-NOV_STYLE
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#3 2008-04-20 16:46:27
- Tony Ventresca
- Member
- Posts: 5132
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
Kind of ignorant of that tailor, though. He's exaggerating, but it's misleading to say that all American suits are big and baggy, large armholes, etc. Most of the tight, shaped, suits we see posted from European tailors look like they've been made like women's couture dresses, i.e. on a mannequin.
#4 2008-04-20 20:23:21
- tom22
- Member
- Posts: 295
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
There aren't a lot of places left. I don't think the trend is to good fitting suits though.
#5 2008-04-20 20:34:28
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#7 2008-04-21 06:50:29
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#9 2008-04-21 10:09:34
- oldog/oldtrix
- Member
- Posts: 124
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
I keep coming back to this picture of Luciano Barbera to remind myself of true elegance:
http://bp3.blogger.com/_qjpwnPW4c1o/Ris6z6-X9rI/AAAAAAAAA8k/iQR5tBM2HQ8/s1600-h/LB1.jpg
The suit is no sack, but neither does it hug the body nor have particularly high armholes. Instead, there is classic shape and drape. Sig. Barbera and I are about the same age, and this is how I dress; but the look is ageless to me, perhaps in single breasted for a young man.
#11 2008-04-21 10:31:20
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-04-21 10:36:13)
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#12 2008-04-21 10:40:35
- Admiral Cod
- Member
- Posts: 412
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"You will find that men of style and their adherents are considered either political enemies of the people or reckless, gluttoness consumers while most live in squalor" - FNB
#14 2008-04-21 11:07:51
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
Last edited by Marc Grayson (2008-04-21 11:08:10)
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#15 2008-04-21 11:19:35
- flannel
- Member
- Posts: 155
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
I love a roomier cut in the neapolitan style: roomy shoulder and a kinder cut around the chest.
Frankly, I would love a sack in the American style as well, but do not know where to procure one... Where can I start? Brooks Brothers has some terrible stuff on display on its website.
#16 2008-04-21 14:58:04
- oldog/oldtrix
- Member
- Posts: 124
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
The tangent this thread has taken is particularly entertaining to me right now. Just after linking the Barbera photo, I got a call telling me that a navy cashmere twill blazer (10 oz.) I had ordered MTM had arrived. As I’ve written before, most of my tailored clothing is RTW, both because I’m very easy to fit in a 42 reg. and, as the son and grandson of men’s retailers, I have an inborn affinity for the mass produced, albeit of high quality. Nonetheless, I do indulge in MTM when I can’t find something I want, and the new blazer is such an indulgence. Indeed, I modeled it on Luciano’s DB coat in the photograph and, starting with a soft shouldered model I’ve bought before in SB suits and redrafting the company’s stock DB lapel and waist suppression, we hit the mark exactly. Add to that my hairline, a close match to Luciano’s, and I couldn’t be happier.
#17 2008-04-21 15:04:11
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#18 2008-04-21 15:18:13
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#19 2008-04-21 15:25:24
- tteplitzmd
- Member
- Posts: 345
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
Marc,
Carlo's cloth is better than his son's.
#20 2008-04-21 15:46:44
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde
#21 2008-04-21 15:56:39
- tteplitzmd
- Member
- Posts: 345
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
So sorry, it was a long day at the sweatshop...
I was thinking of Vitale Barberis. Yes, Sir, you are correct LB uses CB cloth. Now if anyone could explain to me what the "Blancs" on the CB logo refers to, I would love to know. H Lesser said they have no idea of its significance.
#22 2008-04-21 16:09:16
- Marc Grayson
- Member
- Posts: 8860
Re: The Great American Sack Suit Under Siege
"‘The sense of being perfectly well dressed gives a feeling of inner tranquility which even religion is powerless to bestow." Ralph Waldo Emerson
"Looking good and dressing well is a necessity. Having a purpose in life is not." Oscar Wilde