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Does anyone have knowledge of the quality of these mills. I have ordered, am contemplating ordering, or have selected fabrics from these mills in the recent past. Finally, the next suit I will definitely order is a glen plaid from the Smith Excel pattern book. It is a super 120 and cashmere mix. Am I correct in assuming that these fabrics are among the best suitings that Smith offers?
I apologize for the variety of information in the above question, but I joined the various stylistic forums to learn. My knowledge of mills has grown considerably since joining the forums. However, it is still an area where I need much more enlightening.
Thanks in advance for any insight.
Last edited by sweetbooness2 (2006-06-09 15:35:08)
togna is a biella mill, smith marc described, claton is an interesting business. It is a "mill without looms". As the costs of being an employer in the UK have increased so has the concept of outsourcing the weaving of cloth. There are two firms in the UK that have capitalized on this and weave for many "names you must know" ( to borrow a line from Sy Syms ). There cloth is very good and can be purchased in NY at Tip Top in Brooklyn. Also you can see their book at Domenico Vacca as they supply Attolini in Italy.
Thank both of you gentlemen for your helpful replies. I have purchased most of my present suits from a traditional shop called Eljos in Charlottesville, Virginia. My favorite suit is a s120 from Charles Clayton. They have several thousand swatches from Smith Woolens and Harrisons that they use for a mtm/custom program from Southwick.
marc, thats what happens when a lawyer leave his trade goes full bore into the rag trade and opens multiple locations. If he were publicly traded I would be heavy on the short side. You are better of having it be an expensive hobby/obsession.
I have never examined the Millionaire's Cashmere book, but do recall examining some Lumbs Golden Bale for an overcoat. Each time I visit the store, I seem to find a new book of fabrics to contemplate.
One of my reservations about using these wonderful books has been the price/value component. I love the history of Southwick, and their models fit me comfortably;however, it seems a bit much to ask them to construct suits from this material, since they have gone to fusing, half-canvas, and computer cutting. I believe Martin Greenfield, Hickey Hand Tailored or Oxxford would be a better value with this level of fabric, as would a full bespoke tailor of course. Therefore, I have stuck to Southwick's own patterns for my suits thus far, but as Mr. Grayson said, the glen plaids are difficult to resist. I am sure I am in the minority, but glen plaids are my favorite pattern. Southwick has also recently began using Fox Brothers. I do want to try a couple of their flannels.
The suits made by St. Andrews for Luciano Barbera were stunning. The Barbera cloths came out great with that tailoring, and were probably the best looking RTW that I have ever seen.
When Barbera moved to Attolini production, the line suffered greatly.
I am in full agreement with your opinion of Saint Andrews. Their garments are beautiful. I believe they make garments for Davide Cenci now also.
Even though I am most comfortable with the American soft shouldered look, I think the sartorial world is big enough to accomodate all tastes. I presently wear undarted 2 button jackets with pleated pants. This is enough to condemn me to the outer rings of Hades in some circles. Then again, I wouldn't feel too comfortable sticking to the strictures of any sartorial club that would have me.
Didn't Saint Andrews or D'Avenza make rtw for H. Huntsman also?
Yes, I have read some references to Mr. Winston on the AAAC forum.
I don't recall ever seeing any Chipp suits, but was in a local men's traditional shop last month where an older gentleman was picking up a navy 3/2 sack suit by H. Freeman & Son. It had a lovely shoulder, softer than my Southwicks. It was a Naturalaire model made using s100 Holland & Sherry cloth. I know that this company has seen better days since moving to Maryland, but this was a clear example of someone who had choose a model, color, and accessories that were simple but elegant. It helps to have the gravitas and wisdom of age. The garment was fully canvassed, had handmade buttonholes, and was fully canvassed, certainly worthy of a solid B in my book.
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