It's a funny old thing.
We live in a world where elegant clothes are increasingly anachronistic. Billionaires once wore top hats and waistcoats to advertise their station in life. Today, the wealthiest of the wealthy wear the same track suits and T-shirts as anyone else, except their T-shirts cost $250 but look like they came from a thrift store on Mars. The millionaires-plus that I have met tend to wear polo shirts and khakis. It is anti-class, the mark of parvenu, to dress up too much unless you are in your seventies and set in your ways. Dressing elegantly in the 21st century is a conscious act of rebellion and nonconformity which really interests me because the suit was once not long ago such a symbol of conformism. Am I playacting at being a rich guy from 65 years ago when dressing this way?
It seems to me that the majority of gentlemen dressing the way we do on these forums do not do so for the common two reasons males tend to dress up : reason one is to attract the opposite sex. A cap toe balmoral or a repp bow tie is not worn to get chicks. If you want to attract girls (or boys for that matter) wearing a bow tie or a meticulously chosen pocket square is not going to do it. In fact, wear your full on trad ensemble with BB sack and flat front khakis to a nightclub and girls will think you're at best a member of the Young Republicans. Maybe that look gets all the conservative chicks, I don't know. Reason two is is to succeed in business, the Dress for Success angle. But in business, there's an active hazard to overdressing or dressing better than the boss or clients. Being too well dressed sets you apart and alienates you from coworkers and causes ripples in the organization. It's a fine line and I think all of us endure our share of ribbing when coming to work in a suit in a biz casual environment or in a three piece or DB in a sea of cheap 2 buttons.
The answer most people here I think are warming up their reply fingers to type is "I dress like this because I like it." Sure, exactly. It's for YOU. It's a selfish act in a way. It's not even done to attract girls (with the possible exception of the young republicans above), girls will think you are gay or nerdily trying too hard. Those of us who are married usually face exasperated spouses who wish we were a little less fastidious (and didn't spend so much money on clothes, am I right). There's a deeper reason to elegant 20th century dressing.
I was in the SCA, the Society for Creative Anachronism for a while in my misspent college age youth and they were all about rebuilding an idealized middle ages. They knew about peasants and plagues but chose not to re-enact those parts. The SCA is different from (and if you ask me, better than) a renaissance faire, a ren faire is about fleecing tourists out of $30 a throw to watch some knights fight while an SCA event is where everyone participates, everyone is "in garb" or wearing clothing from 800 AD - 1600 AD (a wide range, yes). SCA people have 'personas' in which they are their self equivalents from a chosen period and place in the middle ages and interact in persona during the events. Is it nerdy as hell, yes. Is it kind of chaotic? absolutely. But get the candles lit just right and have all the pewter tableware and the velvet cloaks and the bonfires and get a couple tankards of mead into you and it does seem like a different place. It's called "The Dream" by SCAdians.
By dressing in stylish clothing that is a little too overdressed for the environment we are in our own way creating that atmosphere. Some people on fedora lounge and such take it all the way into full on vintage ensembles. With others it's more subtle. But even subtly it's bringing back the 1980s instead of the 1930s. It's such a fine line of playacting that it's almost imperceptible. But I think in wearing a well cut pinstripe suit we are engaging in that sort of fantasy, of being a corporate power broker from the recent past (or present), or a political star, or a famous author from the recent past or a movie character. It creates a dream. A private little roleplay. Just for yourself. And squint your eyes just right, when you're in the right hotel lobby or office boardroom and that fantasy, on some level, becomes believable. It's fun.
And then some schmuck in an ill fitting golf shirt lumbers in and wrecks it. Which is why it's so annoying, when that happens, it blows the dream out. Which is why it's easy to decry the decline of public taste on boards like this, to commisserate with other people who know the value of that dream, that little moment where you know you've Done It Right.
I've got more to say on this topic, but this post is long enough already. Thanks for reading.
Last edited by GFBurke (2006-06-10 03:16:04)
When I first presented myself as an Englishman who loved American clothes on another forum I was immediately accused of being 'in costume'. The same 'criticism' was then offered to me again and again as long as I posted there.
I never did quite get the point that people thought they were making.
Is an American in English or Italian clothes equally 'in costume'? I never did get an answer to that one...
Maybe it's my background, but what's so bad about a 'costume' anyway?
I work in a business environment, but I'm far from being a 'businessman' so I wear business 'drag' to get by (albeit my own Ivy twist on business wear).
I've been happy to wear various 'costumes' to 'play' whatever various parts in my life -
Businessman.
Bridegroom.
Dad in the park.
etc.
All are aspects of me and all require different wardrobes.
I think your clothes should reflect who you are, but who amongst us is just one narrowly defined person? We all have endless different roles. We all need to present ourselves in endless different ways.
If I want a loan from a bank I dress very differently to the way I do to go out with friends in the evening.
But it's all still me.
Not faking, just bringing a different aspect of myself to the fore.
I like Ivy clothes and that is the thread that runs throughout my wardrobe, but within that form of expression I can present myself in so many different roles.
It works for me.
Dressing well is expressing yourself, but 'yourself' is something that is never set in stone. Everybody is a slightly different person depending on what you are doing from one day to the next, surely?
So I'm going to say no to the concept of 'playacting' and try to promote the idea of dressing to express all the different people that you are.
(See what happens when I don't drink? I write stuff like this!)
Miles - Off for a quick one.
I evolved over time from being the quintessential preppie, wearing Ralph Lauren clothes and Tretorn sneakers (Do they even still make Tretorns?), to embracing the English style, but growing weary of what I feel is a rather sterile, cold, unsexy, and, ultimately, unflattering style, to developing a love for Italian style, which, in contrast, I see and feel as warm, sexy, and appreciative of the human form in a very unique and subtlely powerful way.
This I did mostly in my university days. We used roam the charity shops of Broadstairs looking for interesting clothes and it was amazing what we found. My crowning achievement was assembling an entire white tie outfit over the course of a year. A lot of wealthy people retired to the area so the shops where excellent value, especially for tweeds (well it was next to the sea).
One of our group who had always bought bespoke clothing had a full cape made which he used to wear around campus (this in the late 70's). The women in the group mostly tendied towards a vamp look (lots of strong primaries and costume jewellery) with clothes from the same charity shops. The aim was a sort of consumptive Brideshead Revisited look - doomed bright young things. It was fun going out on the town dodging abuse and threats of physical violence.
Sadly that era came to an end and I had to earn a living - things became a lot less interesting. And although my style is now much more conventional I still have occasional lapses.
"All the world's a stage,
And all the men and women merely players"
What's new?
What a thoughtful little essay the original post is. In my case, dressing well is most definitely an act of non-conformity and rebellion--against the glorification of egalitarianism, slovenliness, the "common person"--and many of the other blights of the late 20th and early 21st centuries.
Love the remark about the "exasperated spouse"--so spot-on!
Surprised I missed this gem earlier.