I gave an abbreviated list on SF but it really starts with hand- I don't mean some sort of IG bs but does it feel good. Pattern and color, weight. I then ask about durability and look at the weave to see if it'd probably wear warm or cool. There are heavier cooler cloths and lighter warmer cloths so weight is sort of secondary. My latest choices ( finally found the pics) have a great hand- they're meaty is probably the best description. the patterns are cool and my tailor thinks they're some of the best cloths he's seen. Now to get them made into suits.