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#1 2008-05-22 07:00:05

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

London Ivy: Random.

http://www.vam.ac.uk/collections/fashion/1960s/interviews/orbach_interview/index.html

"In the late 1950s I was buying clothes in Shaftesbury Avenue. There was a place called Austin's  which used to import American Ivy League styles and button down seersucker shirts. Cecil Gee used to get Italian suede shoes. Vince was the originator of the mod look. North West London Jewish mods started going to Vince to buy white trousers and black sweaters, the left bank Paris look, and matelot shirts. They also had these madras jackets, madras cotton from India…"


http://modculture.typepad.com/modculture/in_the_media/index.html

"This is, I am led to believe, the first mention of "mod" in the press, dated from February 1958.

The person who sent me the article is Steve Fletcher, who is in the picture, but dressed as a trad. As he points out: "I listened to modern jazz and went to clubs like Ronnie Scott's and the Flamingo. I used to disguise myself as a trad to go to Cy Laurie's and Humphrey Lyttleton's simply because there were tons more chicks there who would get up and jive. The chicks at modern jazz clubs were few and far between - the cool blokes went to listen to the sounds, man, not dance."

He continues...
"We modernists used to get our Italian box jacket suits at Alfie Meyers in Old Street or Davis's in Tottenham, and cool Ivy League stuff from Austin's of Shaftesbury Avenue. We had little in common with the second generation of 'mods' whose pop music we thought very unhip."


I'll add to this over time.

All global Ivy stylers are also more than welcome to pitch in too.

J.

 

#2 2008-05-22 09:05:31

Richmond Hill
Member
Posts: 138

Re: London Ivy: Random.

 

#3 2008-05-22 09:30:16

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-22 09:31:36)

 

#4 2008-05-22 09:40:33

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-22 09:41:25)

 

#5 2008-05-22 10:05:33

Voltaire's Bastard
Member
Posts: 967

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Last edited by Voltaire's Bastard (2008-05-22 18:05:05)


“You know that saying, 'Caesar's wife is above suspicion'? Well I put an end to all that rubbish!"..”

 

#6 2008-05-22 11:16:24

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

I'm the changelingman

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=q9q5EuUD9fU

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-22 11:17:51)

 

#7 2008-05-22 12:13:44

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: London Ivy: Random.

I only ever went in Austin's once.

We chanced on it and noticed it sold American shirts. We used to go to the Squire Shop in Brewer Street.

Anyway, the deal killer was fabric. Their shirts were cotton and we wanted what was then called 'permanent press'. 'It's no bother. Just get your mum to iron it.' was the shop assistant's response.

Last edited by Kingstonian (2008-05-22 12:17:18)

 

#8 2008-05-22 12:30:48

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

I collect Austin's stories!

Any other random thoughts on the shop?

A small place, yeah? Arrow BDs? Chris_H used to shop there.

Squire opened very late '68 I think (Too lazy to check), when did Austin's close? (I've no idea).

Equally any Squire stories would be good. My chums jumped from the Ivy Shop to NYC. I came along late & only know JS & then the Ivy later.

Remember the Arrow shop on Savile Row? And Hathaway shirts in Simpsons?

 

#9 2008-05-22 14:28:41

Richmond Hill
Member
Posts: 138

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Austin's closed 17.30 Monday, Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday. late night shoping Thursday, 18.00 Saturday.

Sorry RS  couldn't resist that one.

I think I pressed my nose against their window 66/67 as a teenager, to expensive for me. But a kid can dream. London went psycedelic then and Austin's fell out of favour. Our loss.

RH

 

#10 2008-05-23 01:22:09

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

smile

Don't stain your eyes, but Johnny Moke is of interest here comparing Austin's with Brooks Brothers:

http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=YsxTLFiO5HEC&pg=PT58&lpg=PT58&dq=austin's+shaftesbury+avenue&source=web&ots=VmMTmJhfHO&sig=zjQ-gqMjGU_wdvjFAC-lqirP3yA&hl=en

"Brando's" in Kingston, Kingstonian? Ring any bells?

Edit: Bugger! Link doesn't work. Google "Austin's Shaftsbury Avenue" and you'll get links to 'Burning the Box of Beautiful Things' by Alex Seago & 'Clean Living Under Difficult Circumstances' by Terry Rawlings - Open them & you'll get sample pages of the books which mention Austins & Ivy League style in London. Seago mentions how Ronnie Scott would come back from the US with 20 shirts at a time each trip he made.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-23 01:59:52)

 

#11 2008-05-23 01:37:20

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Obit. of Dougie Millings who headed up the tailoring section of Austin's:

http://www.independent.co.uk/news/obituaries/dougie-millings-729513.html

 

#12 2008-05-23 01:41:21

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

JOHN'S SHOP:

http://news.bbc.co.uk/1/hi/business/7352497.stm

 

#13 2008-05-23 01:50:30

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

http://www.modculture.co.uk/culture/culture.php?id=43

"John Simons opened The Ivy Shop in 1965 and currently owns J. Simons in Russell Street, Covent Garden. He firmly believes that it was easier to acquire modernist clothing in the 1960s. According to John: 'The shirts we used to sell in the 1960s don’t exist anymore in any form so we can’t sell them. We used to get everything from America, but it’s like a giant Topman over there now. The shops are loaded with drivel. Even brands such as Brooks Brothers are now very faceless. We continue to exist through our depth of information and knowledge. It’s difficult to find people without our contacts. It’s certainly not easier than it was, but it is refreshing when young people come in who are comfortable with our style.' "

 

#14 2008-05-23 06:16:52

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

http://www.retrotogo.com/2008/02/legendary-londo.html

 

#15 2008-05-23 06:28:23

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

An overcoat now in the V&A museum from John Simon's Village Gate shop, 1967:

http://images.vam.ac.uk/indexplus/result.html?_IXFIRST_=2&_IXSS_=_IXFIRST_%3d1%26_IXINITSR_%3dy%26%2524%253dIXID%3d%26_IXACTION_%3dquery%26%2524%253dIXOBJECT%3d%26_IXMAXHITS_%3d15%26%252asform%3dvanda%26%2524%253dIXNAME%3d%26_IXSESSION_%3dV0jKssHQ8VJ%26%2524%253dIXPLACE%3d%26_IXadv_%3d0%26search%3dsearch%26%2524%253dIXMATERIAL%3d%26%2524%253ds%3dvillage%2bgate%26%2524%253dop%3dAND%26_IXFPFX_%3dtemplates%252ft%26%2524%253dsi%3dtext%26%2524%253dIXFROM%3d%26%2524%253dIXTO%3d&_IXACTION_=query&_IXMAXHITS_=1&_IXSR_=ooyd9aPSDEq&_IXSPFX_=templates%2ft&_IXFPFX_=templates%2ft&s=V0jKssHQ8VJ

J.

Edit: That date must be wrong?

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-23 06:31:23)

 

#16 2008-05-23 06:36:21

Cheeky Monkey
Member
Posts: 1273

Re: London Ivy: Random.


... ... ...

 

#17 2008-05-23 06:39:16

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Does he also wax his Weejuns a la Vaclav?

 

#18 2008-05-23 08:39:07

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

http://www.atomretro.com/product_info.cfm?product_id=1838

"'....it wasn’t until 1954, when Elvis Presley teamed the item with brilliantine and attitude in the movie King Creole that it crossed over into Main Street to become a much copied American staple.' Elvis always floated between Ivy League and fashion,' attests John Simon-the man responsible for popularising the item in the UK. ' He would have regular stuff in bright colours and the Baracuta, because it was a golfing staple, came in some great colours. What Elvis was doing was called it Jivey Ivy which was Ivy League with a twist.' "

J.

 

#19 2008-05-23 08:45:04

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

http://www.baracuta-g9.com/v2/home/news.php?id=22

"The term Ivy League alludes not only to a North American athletic association comprising eight private colleges - such as Yale, Harvard and Cornell - but also refers to the social groups distinctive style of dress.
Enormously rigid, the look comprises heavy wingtip brogues, button down collared shirts, cardigans and flat fronted trousers and is a direct reflection of the Leagues legendary conservatism. But curiously in the late fifties, it was this conformity that made the look as hot as a blacksmiths poker when, a group of quite radical and predominantly bugged out jazz musicians (such as Miles Davis, Chet Baker and Milt Jackson) chose the style to distance themselves from the carnival antics and gregarious fashions of the previous generation of jump and jive jazz entertainers. And as night follows day, the once conservative style, became the epitome of hip on both sides of the Atlantic.

“You had a lot of cool jazz guys such as Jimmy Heath, Art Pepper and Miles Davis wearing the jacket,” continues Simon.“ But the real explosion came when Steve McQueen wore it on the cover of Life Magazine in 1963. He was such a huge modernist and mod icon that anything he wore caught on.”

Mc Queen’s appearance in the jacket pre-empted a wave of classic Americana in the UK as many original Mods, appalled by the antics of their younger more violent counterparts at the Mods and Rocker riots at Brighton over the Whitsun Bank Holiday of 1964, turned back to the less accessible Ivy League style that they had purloined from the US jazz guys in the early sixties and the Baracuta G9 was a vital component.

“We were the first to stock the jacket as a style item in the UK in late 1966,” states Simon. “ At the time the programme Peyton Place was on TV and Ryan O’Neal wore one in the show so I put one in the window of my shop, The Ivy Shop in Richmond with a ticket saying, The Harrington Jacket, and the name stuck .The first to buy the jacket listened to jazz and soul wore really sharp mohair suits and based themselves on McQueen in the film Love with a Proper Stranger.”

“ The Harrington was part of a style that was so subversive because it was so Ivy League and so conservative compared with all the hippy fashions
that were around at the time, ” says Dexy’s Midnight Runners singer Kevin Rowland.“ The hair was like a short back and sides like an American
astronauts, the shoes were these thick soled Gibson’s and the Harrington was the jacket.”

Since the ‘Harrington’ has been prominent feature of almost every British youth movement- a hardy perennial in the annals of UK sartoria “Paul Simonon wore one as a punk with the Clash while Chas Smash wore his in his band Madness,” says Paul Gorman author of, The Look -the universally
acknowledged last word on street fashion, “A jazzer could wear it as well as a rude boy, rockabilly or a Mod and all the Brit Pop guys love it. Of late the Baracuta original has been picked up by a whole new generation of stylish thirty and forty some things that just want to look sharp.”

But why should a simple zip up jacket designed primarily for golfers some seventy year ago still rule the roost? “ Because It’s got street credentials for connoisseurs”’ states Maxim fashion editor Tom Stubbs the “ It’s classic Americana that slots in differently into the British likely lad look as we have our own way of wearing it. It is such a great shape
and one can put your hands in the pockets and posture quite easily. It looks as good with jeans, chino’s or slacks and on everyone from 8 to 80 –
it is an essential.”

“We stock it now because it has now lost its hard edge,” says Eddie Prendergast, the owner of The Duffer of St George, who now sells the full slim line range. “It used to be in mainly black – now you can buy it in all these brighter softer colours and plaids and so it has a little of that tough connotation but more to do with the original American idea of the Ivy League and that is why it is so bang on the money.”

And now that high fashion is commonplace there has never been a better time to turn back to the classics and look as if your not trying too hard.“
The Baracuta Harrington supersedes fashion ,” says tailor and designer Mark Powell. “ It is a purely stylish garment and even when the fashion
fizzles out it will still remain. It is a true icon and probably the world’s most copied zip up jacket.”

 

#20 2008-05-24 01:06:15

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

Unreadable:

http://www.nicke.abelgratis.com/page%20015.htm

But posted here for this:

"Mods go back to the late Fifties and very early Sixties, when devoted (male) fashion-freaks would go to places like Bilgorri's in Bishops-gate to get their clothes made to measure. Around the same time a few tailors in an obscure street in Soho were offering a similar service; this was the birth of the Carnaby Street phenomenon.

The earliest shops had catered for a gay clientele who, along with West Indians, were the only males habitually to wear brightly-coloured shirts. By 1962, however, the shops had a whole new breed of customer. The influences were originally Italian, and later American Ivy League, very cool and sharp, but with sufficient variety to change almost every week. It was the first time that there had been real fashion for men.

The original Mods had been into modern jazz (as distinct from the art school trad-jazz leanings) and, whereas the art school types had moved on to Chicago-style R&B, the new Mods graduated to soul and bluebeat."






In fact Ivy League style in London was actually in there from the start - It didn't 'take over' from the Italian look in any way. Both styles were always an option as was a fusion of the two.

Carnaby Street did indeed grow out of Gay & Black culture in London. Or rather subculture, as homosexuality was illegal back then and being Black was frowned on too.

The Modern Jazz connection was linked most closely to the Ivy League style. Modern Jazz being imported American music rather like the American import nature of Ivy League clothes in London.

Ivy style on Carnaby Street was only there as an echo of what was going on elsewhere in more 'adult' shops like Austins, the earlier David's, Cecil Gee and then The Ivy Shop from 1965 onwards.

And again here we hear the London perspective on Ivy League style: "Cool & sharp".

... Which is how it's stayed. Never Preppy or Trad, but just as it was when it first came over here from the New World after WWII. Something different & exciting compared to the English stodge we are/were used to.

It's nice to live in such a wide world, no?

J.

Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-05-24 01:21:33)

 

#21 2008-05-24 01:58:56

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: London Ivy: Random.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#22 2008-05-24 02:01:29

Horace
Member
Posts: 6433

Re: London Ivy: Random.

speaking of the G9 -- If the traditional color (above) was black for the bad-ass contingent, what was the color that the author of the above piece thinks is so adaptable?  I don't see the tan or natural color really going with khakis.  With denim jeans, yes, but the Navy (or what the GP considers as navy color) also seemed to be to go better with the ol' khakis.  However, then you've got the ol' blue blazer/chino scheme going, and I have, on occasion, a difficult time brooking that.


""This is probably the last Deb season...because of the stock market, the economy, Everything..." - W. Stillman.

 

#23 2008-05-24 02:56:59

Kingstonian
Member
From: sea to shining sea
Posts: 3205

Re: London Ivy: Random.

In the rush to celebrate Baracuta G9s, people overlook the fact that the Harrington worn by most London teens back in the day was actually a copy made by dear old Millets.

It did not have the knitted collar but it was none the worse for that in my view. It was far more affordable too. Black became the skinheads popular colour - but there were others, including really nice houndstooth and Prince of Wales check versions as the look got established.

Again it was a London thing. I can remember being asked in Portsmouth where I got my jacket - a bog-standard, black, Millets Harrington. Pompey were playing in the old second division then, so I am not sure if the look would have been first spotted there on the terraces.

 

#24 2008-05-24 03:55:00

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

 

#25 2008-05-24 04:05:37

Taylor McIntyre
Son of Ivy...
Posts: 342

Re: London Ivy: Random.

 

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