http://tnsil.blogspot.com/2008/05/mainstream-ivy-1958.html
A little "NeoPrep" to add to our story:
http://preppyjournal.com/node/521
http://preppyjournal.com/node/523
J. Crew was founded in 1983 in New York and has remained consistently Preppy ever since. The pics above are from '05, but they could just as well be from '90 when I last shopped there. Originally a mail order concern, it was '89 before J.Crew opened any shops. They now have 198 retail shops & 65 'outlet' stores in the US.
Other companies kept the youthful Preppy flame burning through the quiet years too, but none quite as well as J. Crew I don't think. Ralph Lauren's demographic is older and less Preppy somehow. Ditto Hilfiger
'83 is an interesting time to start a Preppy business. Wasn't Preppy over by then as something new and cool? And then to open stores on the back of your business in '89 of all times shows that there must have been a real taste for all this stuff even though it had long since slipped from being a mainstream fashion craze by then.
The term 'NeoPrep' is Joe Woah's coinage from SF and it summaries very well what J. Crew do. J. Crew came to the party late & missed the really big Preppy years, but they have kept it all going by constantly renewing their look. Each season it stays Preppy, but it is presented as being new once more. Patch Madras one year, Seersucker the next.
They help to fill in the gap between Preppy in '80 and Trad in 2004 along with a few others.
http://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Preppy-Guy
J.
This is new to me:
http://www.wikihow.com/Be-a-Ghetto-Prep-%28Girls%29
^
Good lord...
^^
Big Tony, brilliant work
I really must find some more pictures for this pictorial timeline...
Chatting to chums last night about the endless 'fings ain't what they used to be' talk regarding Classic American style we moved on to considering how the old Anglophile Brooks customers must have greeted the more 'American' Ivy League style of the 50's. I bet they hated it.
What was that quote from JFK's tailor about how he made clothes for Gentlemen & not stuff in Beatnick or Collegiate styles? Wiser heads than mine will know the proper quote.
Comparing 30's Ivy League with 50's is very Chalk & Cheese, if you have an eye for details. The Ivy Boom years style is MUCH less Anglo & 'Gentlemanly' than the previous incarnation of the style. Don't you just bet that the old guard shook their heads at it too?
... Same deal today as Press carries on evolving & people moan that their stuff looks different now to the way it did in '58.
In London we thought little of Preppy in the 80's. Today we are unenthused by Trad so far.
How about the US? Preppy was a big hit with you & those who now care about Trad care about it very much it would seem.
But surely when Preppy came along the old guard turned up their noses at it? And how would the old guard greet Trad today do you think if they knew it existed?
An American POV would be of interest here -
Thanks.
J.
Chum,
Prep style existed before the ol' OPH, which I of course have never seen save as a reflection in the highly-polished signet ring of my chum, Trip. It was (is?) simply the clothes of New England preppies which probably enveloped even those schools not in the geographic area. Incl. some Bean stuff too. It was Brooksy. Blazers, button-downs, grey flannels and chinos. Weejuns. And whatnot. Wool sweaters from ol' Bean, and whatnot. Ski parkas maybe.
In my opinion the OPH, is a book that is far to seriously used as a reference guide. It was intended as a "tongue in cheek" and it was successful, but as a definitive guide on Preppy lifestyle and it's Ivy League origins their are numerous errors and ommisions.
It is a "dummies guide" on the subject and in the absence of anyother title is has been read and much quoted by people who know very little about the subject of the Ivy League Look and it's Preppy offspring.
Best
RH
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-06-01 04:13:54)
Maybe not "codified" but recognizable to others both prep and non-prep. A lot of variations too, that could be delineated by both insider and outsider. More so, insider I guess. I think the "code" was there before the book, which as I mention, I 'aven't seen.
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-06-01 11:02:38)
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Ivy_League_%28clothes%29
Last edited by Russell_Street (2008-06-01 12:14:29)
Last edited by Horace (2008-06-01 17:38:38)
Last edited by Admiral Cod (2008-06-01 21:15:44)