Just an interesting note about the current wave of brown suede and calf shoes sweeping much of the well dressed world. I was in a men's store a year ago and noticed an orange stripe on a medium to light grey suit. The salesman told me they were carrying things like this because men wanted to match their suits to brown shoes more often. Recently, at a totally unrelated clothing store with a completely different style ethic, I was told the same thing about a caramel chalk stripe on Navy!
I personally have noticed yellow undertones or golden undertones becoming more common in navy cloth. Can this be to accomodate brown shoes? I have never before heard of men's shoe collections driving suit color and pattern choices. I thought Id share that thought.
I'll only wear black shoes for you if you're dead & I have to. Even then I find them a missed opportunity - I'd much reather wear Cordo.
I sort of admire the no brown in town rule, even if its dead, or as Manton revealed in his book, there was a somewhat "official" withdrawal of the rule. Not to say that I follow that rule, but I like the authoritarian impulse behind it.
Last edited by Horace (2006-06-19 14:24:04)
No brown in town! Orthodoxy, orthodoxy, orthodoxy!!
(On the other hand, the relative ease with which one can obtain nice black EGs leads me to believe that the hordes of brown shoed lemmings are to be encouraged. Indeed, they give me something to sneer at when I would otherwise be intimidated by their sprezzatura.)
I think the 'no brown in town' rule rests on a mistake.
That is to say the 'town' in question is not so much a place as an activity.
I am 'in town' when I am going to a business meeting, attending a memorial service or a posh reception (and would wear black shoes).
I am not 'in town' when I am doing a bit of shopping or visiting a museum, for example, even if these were in the same street as the office or church (and would probably wear brown shoes).
Just because I live in central London doesn't mean I wear black shoes all the time. It depends what I am doing. I certainly wouldn't wear them for a walk in the park.
Trimmer
I've noticed more men wearing brown shoes that appear expensive but are really more mid-range than anything else. Such qualities as factory antiquing and an hyperbolic chisel toe usually are the tell-tale signs.
I must admit I've gone brown these days.
I do detest that grey or chalk striped suit with chiselled brown pointy shoe look - it's so I wannabee in with the Maestros of old Napoli to be affectation.
I will quite seamlessly wear brown in town, but generally because it matches what I am wearing.
Funnily enough, at the time of FNB's original posting, I did have a decent OTP Pal Zileri suit in an orange pinstripe. I can't remember now if I sported it with brown shoes or not, likely yes.
How about brown shirts?
Various hues of Autumnal tattershalls yes, besides that, I would sport a short-sleeved brown OCBD or chambray in beach environments, but none other.
How about brown ties?
Brown tuxedos?
Yes.
No.
For years I used to only have black or burgundy shoes. Brown work boots. I don't know when I started to buy brown shoes.
What about green shoes?
Only if you are jealous.
I think FNB's OP about shoes driving cloth choices has proven to be very insightful. Certainly I think the preference has clearly shifted toward wearing brown or burgundy shoes with blue and grey suits over the last few years. You rarely see true dark navy or charcoal suits in RTW, as these fabrics don't go well with brown shoes, while the lighter shades of 'French navy' and mid to light greys work better. Most stuff seems to be paried with brown shoes in promos as well these days, sometimes you can even spot the odd unbuckled monk shoe on the models {shiver}.
On the shoe side you are now seeing iGents commission these formal style/informal leather hybrids - mongrels - usually in shades of brown: e.g. dark brown "austerity" brogues, or sleek swept back monks designed to be made in black calf but MTO in stinky reindeer nose or reverse hippo. Presumably these confused creations are for wear with suits in Conservative workplaces.
Me? I usually wear brown shoes with sportcoats, black shoes with suits as a loose guideline. Of course 'brown shoes' covers a lot of territory, from almost-black 'espresso' captoes to antiqued chestnut brogued double monks (not that I own anything like the latter...)