This sux.  True, the meaning of words can change over time.  However, there is no legitimate reason for this word to be redefined in this way.  While I can understand made-to-measure to mean bespoke based purely on a first impression with the words themselves, I cannot accept made-to-measure to mean bespoke based upon my knowledge of the process.

While an individualized pattern, technically, is the foundation of a bespoke garment, in the end, what really matters is the accuracy and quality of the pattern.  There are many pattern-makers, but few great pattern-makers, and so bespoke and made-to-measure often come down to being a distinction without much of a difference.

^With regards to pattern making for men's suits I think the pattern making with respect to science/math part is pretty much nailed I don't think there's any alchemy going on there. The art that you allude too, I see manifesting itself in the fitting stage. the tailor has too pretty much look forward in time, he has to see/imagine the finished suit on you, that's the art, that's the REAL SKILL, that's what's separates the good from the very best craftsmen, this innate ability to visualise a finished thing before it's completed. I always remember words that were accredited to Michelangelo. When he was asked how he sculpted those incredible beautiful statues from a lump of marble he answered that he didn't see a lump of marble he just saw the subject and just chipped away at the stone to reveal the subject. This may be apocryphal but I think it defines the very best artists, well for me it does. Sorry for the Alden moment:)

Women's tailoring is interesting, there's a lot more variation in cut and style. Take a look at some of the styles from the 30's and 40's the Christian Dior stuff, that's very advanced tailoring, asymmetric cuts etc. there's lots going on there. It would be interesting to see how they made the patterns for those suits. Perhaps they worked in reverse. rough cut the material then fitted it to a live model, basically in a trial and error manner, snipping away, sewing, snipping away again until they'd finished the suit. Then they'd tear it down and draft and grade the patterns for for the RTW lines.

Last edited by gentleman amateur (2008-06-19 18:59:08)

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